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I can try it, but this would not be anywhere near sensitive enough sadly. The Battery would only show because of the chemical properties that changes between full and empty. An SSD would need something that could almost measure the weight of a few million electrons, and the HDD would need...

So I just got a new toy for a great price, and need to learn how to operate it (I have an operators manual, but have not really tried to go through it yet). I need experiment ideas you guys might like to see. The toy is a Mettler H10 Analytical Balance, and apparently is for accurate...

The 2204 motors should handle the 6030 props if it has heavier windings, what type of amp draw is is speced for?

Switch any of the two wires between the motors and ESCs. So if they are all running CW switch two out of three wires coming off the motors on the top right and the back left. Ignore the color coding on three phase motors and DO NOT switch the power wires for the ESCs. Take a look at this...

Even if they are running the same version one may have different settings like slow start, or active breaking. Could buy a flash tool and make everything alike if you have any problems.

Why not use Boris's FW. If you plan on doing a little acro it would be a great help.

Only if they need lubrication, and not the thicker type, a lower weight. I'd completely take apart the drive system and try to isolate the problem.

It is likely that it won't hurt the plastic but WD-40 is NOT a lube, it is a rust solvent, it does not lubricate any better. If you wish to lubricate take a tiny bit of dry lube like graphite, or silicone, or something like a grease (white lithium grease and ect.).

I think that all CC3Ds support PWM, but not all support PWM, if they do you need the little harness

Or you have a friend tie a shoddy knot and get a pipe wrench to the head ;) A monkey's fist knot is a lot more friendly if it hits you hahahaha

I suggest the KK2.1.5 v3 and some bigger ESCs if your motors are drawing 20 amps.

PPM is a connection using multiple channels over fewer wires, stands for Pulse Position Modulation which is the signal encoding, PWM is Pulse Wave Modulation ans has a dedicated wire for each channel. http://blog.oscarliang.net/pwm-ppm-difference-conversion/

They are all pretty useful in the right situations hahaha, I usually use a form of a western union splice on my fpv gear just because you can keep it nice and neat. You need to have good heat shrink though, if not just build up a tiny ammount of hot glue and slide the heat shrink over it...

http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/links/sections/407%20Splices.html Lots of useful info here.

As for obstacle avoidance I'm going to ask someone really quick who may be able to give you an answer or better enlighten you.

That is some awesome flying. Would love to see some more videos hahahaha. ARe you flying a 250 or sub-250 in this?

I would not fly without at the very least reheating the solder ad you may have cracked joints. Also may have dead spots, or if the antenna is completely gone you could actually mess up the receiver.

Most people just solder new ones one, but which ever is easier for you.

Hahaha, it is a common problem for freestyle and racing, store your antenna in a little straw that is fixed to the craft.