Esc troubles, and addvice?

J

Jonarmour2323

Member
Hey guys I'm new to the forum after bugging the crap out of people on IG I thought I'd try on here.

Drone I own is a eachine wizard xt220.

PROBLEM
I have been cooking esc's like eggs in the morning... I use a 4s 1500 35c battery and my esc's are just some generic crap that came in the BNF package. I belive they are blheli_'s and only 20a.
I first had some back ups my friend purchased that were identical they were plug and play. I can't seem to find them anywhere on the Internet or I'd buy them. Part # efm88-20a-4s-v1.2 and v1.3 .
They lit on fire so fast in just a small crash. I pulled up a solder pad on another..
After a quick ebay search I found some new esc''s to replace all 4 of them with to get flying again. Favorite 20a optimo little bee's. After wiring them all up and reflashing my board it still wouldn't fly. Motors would spin when using the motors tab on betaflight.
I am so confused and feel over my head in the software and firmware to fly.

QUESTION
What esc's are cheep durable AF?

Do you have to have all 4 esc's the same to work?

Would a 4 in 1 be a better choice, more durable?

How do I know if I can run a 32bit esc on my set up?

When I put 4 new esc's what do I need to do before they are ready to arm?

Hope you guys can drop some knowledge on me because I am spending more time on fire then in the air!!

Thanks
@jonnyboydrift
 
Yes all esc need to be the same.
Endpoints in the blheli congig need to match what is in betaflight.
Have yo messed with pids at all.
 
You not said which motors you have
But they may be drawing more amps than the esc supplies. Most motors upto 2206 are OK on 20amp. A decent set might just tip that. And most esc's can take a 10 second burst at max throttle. Unless your motor eats 10amp and the esc is 20amp you can fly at full burst as long as you want. Just don't kill the battery.
 
Like Moz said, we need to know more details. No use just slapping a different set of ESCs on, need to figure out why you're burning them up. Motor size & kv, and just as important, prop type and size.
 
I put a set of gatebreaker props on my stock wizard and noticed after a minute of flying the motors and escs were all hot enough to fry bacon.

Maybe you're using too aggressive of props?
 
My motors are eachine 2300kv, MN2205. I do understand about how not to hold full throttle for too long or they'll fry.
I have tuned my pids to around 700d/s with less expo.
Matek f3 Flight controler and pdb
My props are cyclone t5045c

The majority of my esc deaths happen when I'm flying in low throttle situations after a small crash. It's when the blades are being stopped by an object or have taken a slight impact that they more often turn to sizzling bacon.
I have carbon fiber arms so I wrapped them in electrical tape to make sure they were not shorting out the esc.


How long do esc''s last on your guys''s quads?!?!

All in one esc by racerstar?
Or stack x f4 tower by eachine?

I've only ripped 7 packs ever in my 5"...
Getting a snapper 7 and a good sim has gotten me by but I really want to do some sweet acro before the weather in Seattle changes.
Thanks for your responses,
 
You're going to melt your ESCs pretty quick if you've got your props wrapped up in a tree. Have you got your radio set up with an arming switch? You need to be able to shut your quad down in a split second. And yeah, those 5045 props have a pretty steep pitch for those motors, may want to try some 5040's. One last thing and it doesn't have anything to do with your problem but 35C rating on your lipos is waaaay too low, I'd never use anything less than a 75C
 
Dugdog47 I'll have to check out that 4io on banggood but I'm on a budget so hope it's not too pricy!!

Renov8r
Super helpful advide, thank you. Sense I've bought the battery's I haven't really been able to fly so I haven't tested them. The ones I flew with previous were 75c 1550, my props!!! Good I will order up some less agrees I've ones and see how it holds up.

I have a tyro99 on its way while I decide how to fix the wizzard. I need to fly more!!
 
Bring it! Isaw something about this a while ago. Isn't it something about a certain beacon strength setting in BLHeliSuite?
 
RENOV8R said:
Bring it! Isaw something about this a while ago. Isn't it something about a certain beacon strength setting in BLHeliSuite?
Click to expand...
Yeah you just connect to bl heli suite then it'll let you change the arming music, do all four and it sounds cool. I'm going to do a video showing it off this weekend.
 
Cool, I've got my mind set on an 4 in 1.
So I guess I just have one more real question to ask which is about "32bit"
So if I get a new fc tower that can run 32bit and esc's to match. The 32bit rating is referring to what?
From what I understand it means the fc and esc's can compute larger chunks of code in turn making them faster-better.
What do i need to do to get it performing on 32bit?
What if I get a 32bit esc but only have a f3 board can I run with them?
Do I need to adjust my beta flight Gyro settings up to 32bit in order to run the 32bit parts?
 
Them going closed source with it is a bit of a bummer and keeping it locked to windows only with some DRM feeling thing happening to verify the hardware but I guess they have to make a buck to keep development going so can't be too angry (I still am).

I have two 32-bit ones and two older ones so long as you use a protocol they all support from the FC it works fine but I do hear some difference in the boot up tones from each pair.

The gyro update rate and other things you can set in the FC configuration are mostly to do with the frequency with which various values are read or written though so the 8Khz is closer to a clock speed than a bit depth/width. Like you said a wider bus or larger bit depth means you can do more precise calculations with less clock cycles (operate on more bits per operation) but if you aren't using 32bit numbers or operations the actual clock speed is going to be more of a determining factor than the bit width. If you up the frequency on values in the FC it depends on the FC processor capabilities to handle that, but if you are sending signals to the ESC faster than it can process them then this might have an effect. From reading the article the increased PWM speed for the actual motor control sounds like it could have an effect, but I wouldn't expect it to be drastic most of the time only fixing a potential issue when things can 'sync up' in a bad way with the non 32-bit ESCs.

The music thing is a nice bonus but giving up open source for music and DRM doesn't sound awesome to me :)
 
I still got my wizard, it was a wizard before there ever was a wizard.
It still has the little bee pro on it after 3 years with the emax red bottoms.
It's my 2nd fav after my stingy frame.
Can't see any reason why a stock setup would fry them esc's.
One thing you need to be hotter on is, as soon as you have lost control is cut that throttle or hit that disarm.
 
I've fried a few but I always just buy the separate ones sometimes packs of two or when I'm first piecing together a quad 4 separate ESCs. As stated if your prop is stuck on something and it's still getting signal to run then it can happen. For me has just been failure to disarm quickly enough when hitting a pole and other various similar situations. I think I've gone through about 3 "sets" or so in 2.5 years on my miniquad setup.
 
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