Meteor 5" build

Discussion in 'Build Logs' started by Dugdog47, May 6, 2018.

  1. Gyro Doctor

    Gyro Doctor Electronics Tech for over 45 years

    Speaking of "hammer down" flying, I'm disappointed in the loss of my skills, having not seriously flown anything
    in a little over a month or so. I'm holding out for the Cerberus V3 frame (thanx to Renov8tor) for my next build
    and am quadless in the interim (build 'em and sell 'em is supplementing my income). You'd think I'd keep a few
    (or at least one) for myself, but when they "make me an offer I can't refuse" it's goodbye quad, hello cash. :D

    The point is, I find that I'm "porpoising" quite a lot when flying my sims (so as to not entirely lose my edge) and have
    yet to decide whether I should just tough it out until the fluidity returns, or make some compensatory adjustments.
    The sims I like are (in order) Liftoff, FPV Freerider, and DLR. The problem is since the latest updates to Liftoff the
    physics have changed AGAIN and it's almost unflyable without major re-tweaking (which I'm getting really tired of
    doing every time they change things (which is a lot). That sim has also got to the point where unless you've got a super
    gaming 'puter you hafta turn everything down so low to play it defeats the point of it's otherwise fantastic realism.
    Consequently I'm spending more time in Freerider, which is where I'm really seeing this loss of my abilities.

    Sorry, not meaning to hijack the thread, but thought I'd just toss this out there soliciting opinions from anyone who uses
    sims to "keep in shape" when they can't be actually flying. Time constraints are such that even with a real quad I have
    precious little time to fly, but now that I'm seeing that loss of precision and fluidity in my abilities I'm a little concerned.
    I used to nail gates in Freerider at full throttle and could hold my own in Liftoff too, now more often than not I nail gates
    (as in smack right into them) in Freerider and can hardly fly in Liftoff :(

    Opinions are welcomed :)
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2018
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  2. BL Swagger

    BL Swagger Well-Known Member

    I use the DLR sim off Steam engine. Kinda slow on the 6yr old computer I use it on, but does alright when hardwired with Ethernet. Acro feels a bit too easy on the sims though. Doesn't translate to real world very much, and I think that is because on the game, everything on the quad is in balance. Where as, our quads may not be outputting the same for each motor.

    I also feel I am more confident on the simulator, and a bit hesitant with real world flying.
     
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  3. Gyro Doctor

    Gyro Doctor Electronics Tech for over 45 years

    Me too ... Of course that's understandable when knowing you aren't going to actually hurt anything and just press a reset button.
    The trepidation of smashing your beloved quad into a tree at fifty MPH tends to put a damper on that "balls to the wall" attitude
    that's so easy to have when flying a sim. :p
     
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  4. BL Swagger

    BL Swagger Well-Known Member

    I live on a lake, so taking a dive is sitting in the back of my head. #ThreadTakeOver
     
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  5. mozquito1

    mozquito1 Well-Known Member

    My boat to a T. I may sell half a dozen or so a year. Not much but around £60 a pop in my pocket & that's with a free fix but they pay parts. Ppl go away happy & I get the odd one coming back happy. Even though its in pieces.
     
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  6. mozquito1

    mozquito1 Well-Known Member

    As for sims I tried but it's just not the same.
     
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  7. Dugdog47

    Dugdog47 Well-Known Member

    So far I've got in the camera, vtx and frame. No building done yet but meanwhile I'm running this wizard as practice:

     
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  8. Dugdog47

    Dugdog47 Well-Known Member

    I still haven't built anything yet but after I finish a few things around the house it'll finally be time.

    Meanwhile I've been watching this guy named Botgrinder on youtube and I'm thinking about trying one of his frames:

    BOT5_Prototype_23.jpg

    http://bqe.io/shop/bqe-bot5/

    Has anyone here tried one of these yet?
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2018
  9. Badfish

    Badfish JA.O.A.T.

    He seems to be beating the hell out of them. Note the 16x16 motor mounting though.
    I actually found this release kinda shady. Just a few days before everyone that has the Kwadbox subscription got their (very comparable) Rad-X frame.
    Neither is my style, so I won't be using my Rad-X. Hit me up if you're interested.
     
  10. Dugdog47

    Dugdog47 Well-Known Member

    Okay I'm guessing the 16x16 motor mounting is not compatible with my racerstar 2400kv motors?
     
  11. Badfish

    Badfish JA.O.A.T.

    Racerstar 2306 2400k (and most other that brand) are 16x19, so no go. 16x16 is the lumenier motor form factor.
     
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  12. Dugdog47

    Dugdog47 Well-Known Member

    Oh man I can't wait to get this beast built. How cool would it be to just build quads full time and get paid?

    Anyway I've got another newbie question.

    Since I'm using this Dalrc 4in1 esc

    dalrc-4in1.jpg
    With the Dalrc F405 flight controller

    dalrc-fc-main1.jpg

    Does this mean I will NOT need the power distribution board? I'm confused because both the pdb and the 4in1 escs has a place for the battery cable to be soldered too.

    Anyone familiar with these components?
     
  13. RENOV8R

    RENOV8R Well-Known Member

    Funny you should bring this up, I just got these last night. First thing is solder the battery leads to the pads on the ESC Engine. Secondly, toss away the 8 wire cable that came with it. Thirdly, plug the F405 into the ESC. You'll see the 10 pins on the bottom of the F405, they just plug into the 10 hole socket on the ESC unit. Here's the board layout showing how to connect your receiver, FPV system, etc

    DAL.jpg
     
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  14. Dugdog47

    Dugdog47 Well-Known Member

    Awesome diagram @RENOV8R where did you find that? I've been searching the web for days now and this is the first time I've seen it all explained!
     
  15. RENOV8R

    RENOV8R Well-Known Member

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  16. Dugdog47

    Dugdog47 Well-Known Member

    Okay the only thing left to ask that I don't know about is that big capacitor.

    Where to solder that in, what does it do, and why? I'm guessing it has to do with a fast start?

    Am I missing it in the diagram? I see no mention of a capacitor in the pic posted.
     
  17. RENOV8R

    RENOV8R Well-Known Member

    It would get soldered onto the ESC battery pads. I'm going to try without as the ESC already has like 15 low esr caps on the board.
     
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  18. Dugdog47

    Dugdog47 Well-Known Member

    Bro your awesome thanx for answering my newbie questions.

    As a novice this stuff is a blast!!
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2018
  19. Gyro Doctor

    Gyro Doctor Electronics Tech for over 45 years

    :rolleyes: ... You guys lemme know how that FC and ESC combo works for you.
    I'm right at the point of "pulling the trigger" on the same setup. :p

    40A cont w/50A burst is (for me) just perfect, having DSHOT1200 makes it even better, also a
    32bit MCU @ 48MHz tops it off as far as specs are concerned .... THEN considering how badass
    it looks is just more gravy ... lol ... PLUS having 1,150 uF of low ESR caps built in ?! PLUS being
    able to just plug right into a very good FC with OSD and a 3A BEC ?! .... SOLD !! ..... :D

    A 1,000 uF capacitor is often added onto the battery leads in order to filter out noise spikes caused
    by the ESCs that would otherwise cause interference, presumably this ESC should not require one. ;)
     
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  20. RENOV8R

    RENOV8R Well-Known Member

    I saw a YouTube video and even at full throttle the FPV image was crystal clear with no extra cap. Pretty promising. I 've started a new build using this setup and yeah it's pretty wicked looking, just didn't like how they want you to mount the ESC unit, changed that up a bit;)
     
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