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Sounds like fun build, just one odd thing: Why a 50 amp opto ESCs? The 50 amp part is fine, it'll alloq you upgrade to bigger motors later, but the (OPTO) means opto-coupled AKA you are supposed to use a second battery for the 5v stuff, but you can take a little step-down transformer to take...

This is a 8ch transmitter, so band should not be an issue, you should be able to just cycle through the channels, what are you using as a receiver?

Yes, what are you feeding it regarding power?

DC voltage in range : 12V/150mA(7.0v~15V) Channels: CH1:5705 MHz ,CH2:5685 MHz, CH3:5665 MHz, CH4:5645 MHz, CH5:5885 MHz, CH6:5905 MHz, CH7:5925 MHz, CH8:5945 MHz

Are there numbers and letters beside the lights?

Looks like a 32 ch setup, make sure that they are not only on the same channel, but also the same band.

Yes, with 2 cell your going to have a short battery life, as you will be drawing more amperage to compensate for the less voltage.

You can always solder new pins for what you want, or just direct solder wires on. You definately want to insulate those solder joints from the motors, if something shorts them, a short on 3 phase can be n

DIY landing gear, or you buying it?

Have a AC-DC wall adapter with around the correct voltage?

Haha, any time. Most of us started out asking questions.

No walking required, just need to have a separate power source for the camera and TX and move the tx and then the camera around a few feet from the motors to see if it is some sort of EMI. If that fixes it then a filter is most likely fix, if not fixed, but only affects while closer than EMI is...

Any added weight, or are any of the motors somewhat stiff to turn?

Yeah, unless your: sentimental, feel like a little troubleshooting, and feel like doing some SMD, if these are all true you could solder a new sensor on.

Make your FPV setup run 100% seperate from your quad, then move it toward the quad while the motors are running, if it affects it close to the motors then fliter won't help, if it works fine, then a filter should help. This is the reason for OPTO ESCS, but a filter should fix it if that is...

Sounds like a accelerometer problem, I don't think CC3D has a firmware for turning off the accelerometer, to learn to fly you should start with learning to fly without autoleveling anyways.

Couple things, what type of batteries, has it set for a long time without being charged? Have you tried more than pone charger? I have noticed inconsistencies, and errors with the USB chargers, like Jackson said test voltage first.

What motors are you using? You may need to have a power filter.

Are you using flux and heating everything? You may want to add flux and reheat everything. Swap your motors and see if the problem moves. It may be an ESC issue.

Sounds great haha. Balsa is a great material to work with, just keep in mind that little vibrations can wear screws to be somewhat loose. I had that problem using too soft a wood, though balsa should be fine.