Search results

With three phase it does not matter (well unless your doing a building), just hoock them all up to the ESCs and which ever ones are not spinning the correct way just swap any two of the wires.

Haha, I like it. If someone ask me if I ever played/play sports I am going to say yes..... I fly quadcopters xD. @Nick is also from Alabama, maybe you two are close enough to fly together a little hahaha (or maybe 4 hours apart xD)

Posted there. Should have the first revision of the review for the first one on here tonight or tomorrow.

Left a review on your site, and will be writing one for the forums (more in depth).

True that under load is what is usually calculated for, but you can have the switch get hot and fuse, or get hot and flip if it melts the mechanism that holds it closed. I tried a 200 amp DC switch on a load of 260 amps DC (no load until after switched) and it ended up making the switch weak...

I suggest using plastic props for testing (cheap and expendable in the even of props touching the ground), and if you don't want to pay too much for CF then wood are a great option. With amperage you only need a supply that will meat the draw, too big is fine. Depends on the frame, boards...

If your looking for a little more range then yes.

Look into the MutiWii, and if you insist on doing it from a vanilla Arduino then look into bluecopter, it will NOT be as easy as it will appear haha. Also @Nick may be able to help steer you.

You should get at least a 25 amp ESC, also if you ever want to switch motors, most that size will want a bigger ESC. The reason is that they last longer when not asked to work too hard; heat is hard on electronics. Turnigy makes great stuff, and their mutisttar line is just for quadcopters...

Ok, the programming experience is only somewhat important, as it is pretty simple complexity wise regarding the code, but getting the math right is a really hard task. One idea Nick and I came up with was to have an Arduino as a middle man between your receiver and your flight controller...

Unless you want to solder an XT60 on both you'd be better to switch products. A 20 amp ESC would be better than a 10 amp, really a 10 amp is a hair small, as you usually want 5 amps over your motor's max draw. This is so they will last longer, as heat is what kills electronics.

If they let you have the quad you can fix the SD slot relatively easy.

I'd not use an OPTO ESC, that just means you'll be using a BEC, and most all people install OPTO ESCs wrong anyways. That 10Ah battery is going to be really heavy, especially at 4S, I'd suggest you get a couple Mutistar 5200 mAh batteries and use them one at a time. A lot of people like...

This would be the most likely case.

Yes, are you wanting to do a ground up, or build off the source? Also what type of experience do you have? @Nick

Got it today, and I really like it.

xD, I posted in the wrong area. I had this tab open and just glanced xD

I had a problem with my Runcam not working right, turned out to be TWO bad MicroSD cards. You might try them in something else and make sure their not locked into read-only mode.

Yeah, hobbykings shipping is a lot,have you tried getting everything from your nearest warehouse as apposed the international?

"in some videos i see pople removing wires from the micro connectors and only leaving one or two wires instead of 3.. should i be doing that? is that a possible solution?" No, that is usually when you use a BEC, is your transmitter setup on for a plane? If not it needs to be.