New racer build ideas

Altsickeness said:
Well... Im getting sick of this thing. View attachment 1590 Another arm broke. I dont know... Maybe acro in 20mph wind wasnt such a good idea.
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I usually prefer to DIY my frames because of the repairability and customizability. No waiting on parts to arrive hahaha. I can make 4 new arms with a little stick of wood (I have a 5 gallon bucket full of arms basically all I have to do is cut an angle on the end and drillholes)

Frame is a little heavier than many others, but it works great, has to hit pretty hard to break anything, and repairs really easy. If you'd rather buy might go for a ZMR like Design as they are tried and true.
 
Guys, I have a newb question. If Im looking at a quad frame and it says it comes with a BEC board is that basically a power distribution board that has a stepdown relay from 12 to 5volts?
 
Altsickeness said:
Guys, I have a newb question. If Im looking at a quad frame and it says it comes with a BEC board is that basically a power distribution board that has a stepdown relay from 12 to 5volts?
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Yep, a BEC is a battery eliminator circuit, steps down the voltage so that you don't a second lower voltage battery.
 
Old blue dropped out of the sky. No power to the escs. I need a little help undestanding how escs work exactly because immgoing to try and fully bypass the pcb. Ive been looking at escs for a new build and lots of them have 3 wires to the motor on one side and 4 wires on the other.

I have this on my racer 250. Three wires into the esc and three wires out to the motor. http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-Racer-250-Drone-Spare-Part-Simonk-12A-ESC-2-4S-p-1014103.html

But most of the escs i see have 4 wires coming out the one side. Im wondeing exactly were thise wires go. Like this: http://www.banggood.com/Emax-Simonk...-40A-ESC-For-Quadcopter-QAV-250-p-918126.html

Im circling around this trying to understand BEC and trying to understand the power flow from the fcb to the escs and to the motor and what BEC does and why my Racer 250 doesnt have the extra wire. Can someone help me understand it? Ive watched several videos on this but none seem to explain exactly how it works so I can visualize and understand it. All the vids so far are general information but no detail.
 
Also, im starting a list of what i think I want for a new build. I want to go fast and have room for battery upgrades, but thinking of starting with a cheap frame just to get going before I get into the voodoo or something more high end. Ill be back shortly with the list. oh and I'm probably going through amazon so my wife doesn't see the purchases because I'll use amazon gift cards. :)
 
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Altsickeness said:
Old blue dropped out of the sky. No power to the escs. I need a little help undestanding how escs work exactly because immgoing to try and fully bypass the pcb. Ive been looking at escs for a new build and lots of them have 3 wires to the motor on one side and 4 wires on the other.

I have this on my racer 250. Three wires into the esc and three wires out to the motor. http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-Racer-250-Drone-Spare-Part-Simonk-12A-ESC-2-4S-p-1014103.html

But most of the escs i see have 4 wires coming out the one side. Im wondeing exactly were thise wires go. Like this: http://www.banggood.com/Emax-Simonk...-40A-ESC-For-Quadcopter-QAV-250-p-918126.html

Im circling around this trying to understand BEC and trying to understand the power flow from the fcb to the escs and to the motor and what BEC does and why my Racer 250 doesnt have the extra wire. Can someone help me understand it? Ive watched several videos on this but none seem to explain exactly how it works so I can visualize and understand it. All the vids so far are general information but no detail.
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It's really quite simple, this pic should explain. The BEC's are fed a full 14.1 V from the PDB. They drop it down to 5 V which are sent to the FCB via the 3 wire servo cables you see (red = positive, brown = negative, yellow/white = signal. Note that only BEC 1 in the top left corner has all 3 pos, neg & signal wires that are input in M1 of your FCB, the other 3 leads only need to be signal and ground wire as the FCB already has power from #1. That's it
 

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Altsickeness said:
Old blue dropped out of the sky. No power to the escs. I need a little help undestanding how escs work exactly because immgoing to try and fully bypass the pcb. Ive been looking at escs for a new build and lots of them have 3 wires to the motor on one side and 4 wires on the other.

I have this on my racer 250. Three wires into the esc and three wires out to the motor. http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-Racer-250-Drone-Spare-Part-Simonk-12A-ESC-2-4S-p-1014103.html

But most of the escs i see have 4 wires coming out the one side. Im wondeing exactly were thise wires go. Like this: http://www.banggood.com/Emax-Simonk...-40A-ESC-For-Quadcopter-QAV-250-p-918126.html

Im circling around this trying to understand BEC and trying to understand the power flow from the fcb to the escs and to the motor and what BEC does and why my Racer 250 doesnt have the extra wire.
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Altsickeness said:
Three wires into the esc and three wires out to the motor
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That is specifically made to mate to their PCB, the yellow is probably just the signal wire, do you have a solder pad on the PCB with an 'S' on it? You notice there is no mention of a BEC on the listing, which means it's on the PCB. I'd imagine you could use one of these optos.
213807f480418cbfce713ecb40119eba.image.750x500.jpg


On this one the white is the signal wire and the black is the ground, which appears to be not needed in your case.

If you choose to use BG 2-4S ESCs and bypass the PCB you'll need to get a standalone UBEC.
 
RENOV8R said:
It's really quite simple, this pic should explain. The BEC's are fed a full 14.1 V from the PDB. They drop it down to 5 V which are sent to the FCB via the 3 wire servo cables you see (red = positive, brown = negative, yellow/white = signal. Note that only BEC 1 in the top left corner has all 3 pos, neg & signal wires that are input in M1 of your FCB, the other 3 leads only need to be signal and ground wire as the FCB already has power from #1. That's it
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Thank you! That seems pretty easy. From position one bec inside the esc the fcb gets its 5vt power and ground. It looks like you just cut off and seal up the other 3?
 
Jackson said:
That is specifically made to mate to their PCB, the yellow is probably just the signal wire, do you have a solder pad on the PCB with an 'S' on it? You notice there is no mention of a BEC on the listing, which means it's on the PCB. I'd imagine you could use one of these optos.
213807f480418cbfce713ecb40119eba.image.750x500.jpg


On this one the white is the signal wire and the black is the ground, which appears to be not needed in your case.

If you choose to use BG 2-4S ESCs and bypass the PCB you'll need to get a standalone UBEC.
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Hi Jackson, so i watched this video on how to bypass the pcb.
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...AA811FFAFD9AD6ABB59AAA811FFAFD9AD6A&FORM=VIRE


The guy provides wiring diagrams and pins to each esc. He shows bat power and ground to each esc and hard wires pins 1-4 to esc positions 1-4 he doesnt show anything for pins 5 and 6 which are also connecting the pcb to the fcb. Im wondering what those two could be for. Also he shows a 12-5vt voltage regulator that he wires the 5vt side and ground to the fcb. So im totally clear that I understand, thats the BEC right?

Sorry If im asking you guys redunant, stupid questions, i just want to make sure im understanding everything before I move forward and for future builds that I hope to do. Thanks to all of you for all the info you guys have provided so far and being patient with me as I ask this stuff. I promise that im getting close to understanding and the dumb questions will stop. :)

Edit to add- could pins 5 and 6 be osd information? This originally had time in flight and battery info on screen but after my burn up it doesnt work. There is a 2 pin connector on the board that goes to pin 7 on my rx.

EtA 2- thats not it. Those pins are for led light switch on tx.
 
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Altsickeness said:
http://www.amazon.com/DLFPV®-4-Axis-Carbon-Racing-Quadcopter/dp/B01DBOH16W?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A3D72ERSO97IXM

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS®-Naze32-Controller-Distribution-Multicopter/dp/B00UFK8VJ2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=A37EFSP4QP9HL5

http://www.amazon.com/Emax-RS2205-R...ue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A2YGVOB7APVMLY

http://www.amazon.com/Emax-RS2205-R...ue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A2YGVOB7APVMLY

Will all these items work together? Am I missing anything?

I plan on flying with 3s 1500mah batteries for now because I have lots of them and 5040 and 5045BN props because I have lots of those as well.
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Also, any negative opinions on this? Id like some input before moving forward so I dont do anything stupid or waste money. As far as I can tell, it should work.
 
Bought a qav-r 220 kit to build and a ZMR 250 frame to try and transfer parts from old blue. I think I will try to keep my red ER250 running awhile longer. Broke 2 more arms on it this weekend so I can use the 4 arms I have left from old blue. I think I've broke 8 total arms and have flown with some epoxy/plastic weld/super glued failures. Im done buying ER250 arms. Its tough to learn low level flying around trees and mix in acro flying. hopefully the move to different frame designs will be a little more durable. When/if I ever stop smashing into things and clipping branches I may go after the voodoo frame. Right now I need a light weight, nimble tank to keep learning. :)
 
Nice find! I bought a few of those batteries. The motors and escs look good too but i got to stop spending money for awhile. I almost bought a quantum falcon frame for $16 but stopped myself. Ha ha!
 
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