CARBON FIBER 320 SIZE QUAD AND DX6

Yea. For a second. My vtx is on the top plate of my frame. It seems no matter what I do, I can't get the vtx and the RX for the controls far enough apart. I have moved the RX and the fc directly behind the camera, as far forward as the frame allows. Then I put the vtx on top of the upper frame, as far back as possible. Now I'm getting the interference again. So what can I do? Is there a way to shield something?
 
Well that sound great your on your way to sorting it , if you get a small plastic plate mount this to the back of the frame then mount the FPV transmitter to this
 
A lot of identical posts on the net. Sadly no real solutions, the threads usually just drop dead.

Well FWIW it may just be your ESCs. Folks have been knocking the standard RCTimers for a while. Mostly for their lack of all N-FETs and no 16MHz Crystal. They may just be noisy little buggers.

The 'specs' from yours.
SimonK Firmware
Input voltage: DC 6-16.8V(2-4S Lixx)
BEC:5V 2amp
Running current:12A(Output: Continuous 12A, Burst 15A up to 10 Secs.)
Size: 26mm (L) * 23mm (W) * 7mm (H).
Weight：11g
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Don't say much, does it.

Here's some copy from some red cheapies.
Highest efficiency 100% N-FET design.

Highest accuracy with Crystal Oscillator (Temperature won't affect the PWM operating range like other cheap ESC's).

No low voltage cutoff, because any cutoff in a multirotor = crash.

No over temp cutoff, because any cutoff in a multirotor = crash.

Super high refresh rate, no buffering of the input signal, resulting in more than 490Hz response rate.

16KHz motor frequency, giving fastest response of the motor, and quietest operation as well (no 8KHz squeal).
Click to expand...

Check out the copy on this RCTimer ESC.
http://rctimer.com/product-1059.html

Maybe you should at least try twisting some of the wires wherever possible.

Brushless Motor Systems
Although brushless motors don’t have a commutator to produce interference-causing sparks, they are not immune from producing interference. There are still high switching frequencies with sharp-edged wave forms involved in the operation of the motor. Fortunately, a brushless speed control is usually very close to the motor, and the three leads connecting them are often only an inch or two long (for many sensorless speed controls, short leads are required to ensure proper operation).

In a multi-motor brushless model, there will generally be one speed control per motor, with long power leads to the centrally located battery, and long servo-type leads to the centrally located receiver. These should be kept as far apart as is practical, and each lead should be twisted.
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Jackson said:
A lot of identical posts on the net. Sadly no real solutions, the threads usually just drop dead.

Well FWIW it may just be your ESCs. Folks have been knocking the standard RCTimers for a while. Mostly for their lack of all N-FETs and no 16MHz Crystal. They may just be noisy little buggers.

The 'specs' from yours.

Don't say much, does it.

Here's some copy from some red cheapies.


Check out the copy on this RCTimer ESC.
http://rctimer.com/product-1059.html

Maybe you should at least try twisting some of the wires wherever possible.
Click to expand...


Twisting the wires can be a good idea (just like UTP cabling), but you may also need to shield the ESCs with some foil wrap. I think(and hope) that it is the ESCs as opposed to the rx.
 
Jackson said:
A lot of identical posts on the net. Sadly no real solutions, the threads usually just drop dead.
Click to expand...

Its not dropping dead here!! You guys are all awesome!. I will shield the esc's with tin foil tonight and see if that helps. Um, could one of you guys recommend a better esc? I kinda don't want to do business with rctimer again... hobyking or helipal? Or somewhere reputable?
 
katheiser said:
Thanks GHJ! Ill probably get some.
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Don't bother with those huge 54 x 26mm, 32 gram beasts that GHJ linked to. Plus these days you want either SimonK or BLHeli FW. Looking at your motor specs.

e7291f21acecfd16.gif


A 12A ESC (which basically has a 20% amp cushion) is more than enough (which is what most use with this type of motor). Looking at the Emax SimonK (actually kind of a Simon/BLHeli hybrid) we see it's 22 x 17mm and comes in at 8 grams. No reason to carry around an extra 96 grams of unneeded dead weight.

This is also interesting if you think 12A isn't enough. Looks like an unlabelled Flycolor.
http://www.readytoflyquads.com/rtf-mini-20a-blue-series-simonk-rapidesc
Fly_20_A.jpg


Cool specs.

Small size, long wires, bullets and only 8 grams plus they have various configuration options that you can choose from when ordering.

Just so you realize I'm not saying you should replace your ESCs, just tossed that into the mix when I saw the ones you had. Might not solve anything. :)
 
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Jackson, as always you have great info. What is the difference in the "various configuration" options? I mean, What would I expect from the different options? And can you explain what "one shot" is?
 
I may be wrong, but, doesn't wrappin' the bec/control lead tightly around a power wire cause, or at least add to, interference? Could you put the bec leads thru a single ferrite barrel ( to keep the weight down) ? I'm not sure that would cure the problem but for .50c and a few minutes time it can't hurt. I really think that Jackson has the right idea. Get some good quality, shielded, well reviewed esc's and enjoy flying your cool quad. We can Mickey Mouse stop gap fixes but you don't want to lose fpv or control at 60mph when $60 or $ 80 bucks will fix it permanently. Chalk it up to learning the hard way. Been there. Done that.;)
 
Thanks! Yea, I've resorted to getting new escs. I'm waiting to see if Jackson isn't fed up by me enough to answer my dumb noob questions about the escs he shared a link for, then I'm going for it...
 
Ha! If they aren't fed up with my really, really dumb questions then you are safe! Seriously, you will never find a more respectful and helpful group than on this forum. Period.
 
You should still try and keep separation of power wiring and esc's from Rx and Vtx as much as possible. Keep the dc voltage wires as short as possible and twist the bec wires. Try not to make loops of the wires. Sorry. I'm rambling. Ha Ha! Good luck tomorrow!!
 
HDtallrider said:
You should still try and keep separation of power wiring and esc's from Rx and Vtx as much as possible. Keep the dc voltage wires as short as possible and twist the bec wires. Try not to make loops of the wires. Sorry. I'm rambling. Ha Ha! Good luck tomorrow!!
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Haha, great advice, also if you use ferrite rings make sure to wrap them a LOT more than most manufactures wrap them haha. I swear they put them on for decoration when they only wrap 3-5 times.
 
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