My first build, with a few questions.

J

Junkers

Active Member
Hi everyone. Im building my first Quadcopter and i have a few questions. Ill list my parts first then ask the questions.

Parts
  • NEEWER H4 4 Axis Carbon Fiber Folding Aircraft Frame Kit(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HVPL1Z0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  • Angel a2212 980kv motors
  • 10x4.7 carbon fiber props
  • Neewer 30A esc
  • Floureon 11.1v 3000mAH 30C battery pack 2ea.
  • Turnigy 9x transmitter and receiver
  • Solder on Power Distribution Board
  • Arducopter v2.6 flight controller
  • Ublox NEO-6M gps module with compass
  • Minimosd
  • 3DR Radio Telemetry Kit
  • APM Arduflyer Power Module
  • FatShark Teleporter v3 kit with rx/tx and camera
  • ftdi breakout board to program Minimosd
  • Imax b6 lipo battery balance charger
  • Precision Prop balancer
  • Misc. Connectors,Wires,Velcro.

First question is there anything I should change with this set up or that I am missing? Of all the guides I read online the parts are all over the place. Secondly, does the mavlink OSD tie in with the telemetry unit or is it only needed with FPV? I do plan on adding FPV later on. With it being in the ebay kit just made me wonder if telemetry needs it. I plan on using FPV and maybe a go pro later on, would I have to upgrade anything or do you think this copter will have enough power to lift everything. Also what would be a estimated flight time? Thanks
 
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GJH105775

GJH105775

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That appears to be a dead cat frame can you confirm? Also can you define, "electronics bundle", what all is in it? It looks like everything is ok, motors and props are well selected, 30A ESC will run about anything. Use this tool, it can be a great help, it may not have everything you selected, just choose the closest part.
 
holtneil

holtneil

Well-Known Member
Moderator
HI mate good list But, sorry always a but, the props are a but small go for 10x4.5 will give you much more lift use carbon fibre if you can they will not let quad wallow , the plastic or nylon will
The dead cat has some strange flight characteristics due to the arms being longer on the front and at a different angle , On the kk flight board we go in to PI editor and change where the motors are in space this makes it fly right if you can do this on the FBC you listed then your be ok , if you cant look at a frame like the FPV flip frame from hoverthings just to give you an idea
OSD means On Screen Display yes is good for FPV will display info on the monitor or goggles
Your want bigger than 3000mah look at 5200mah multistar battery from hobby king they are made for multirotors , I think your be looking at 10 mins +off the top of my head but check on ecalc.com
 
J

Junkers

Active Member
Yeah I'll probably order some 10" props. All of the arms are the same length. Just the front are at a different angle. I'll probably design a new frame using the arms I have already. I'm in the process of mounting the electronics and soldering the wires and I don't really like the layout. There is a lot of wasted space. Would 2-3000 mAH batteries be OK? I have 2 with room to mount them.
 
GJH105775

GJH105775

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If they are not too heavy, you can wire them in parallel. Are they the same brand, C rate, voltage, and age? Also on anything that big you should defiantly get CF props. Mine flexed way too much to get in the air and then exploded on first takeoff. I think they were ABS so not very good quality.
 
J

Junkers

Active Member
Well I just got done soldering up the power distribution, and have a few more questions. When I measure the resistance of the power distribution board with just the four esc's attached im getting 12.9k ohms and i had to extend the leads on the apm power module and im getting 15.2k ohms on it. Before I go any farther are these values acceptable? Im worried I could have a defective part or crossed solder joint.
 
GJH105775

GJH105775

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15.0kΩ is a little higher, are you sure your tester’s leads are making good contact? You may just inspect your board and if you don't find any problems then it should be fine. If you have a crossed solder joint when you plug that battery in you will certainly find out. If you do find a bad spot on the board just drill it (optional) and put in a jumper between the problem traces. Are you sure you cleaned the board good before soldering? If not you could have a solder joint that has a layer of grease between the pad and the wire?

It is probably fine though you should check it.
 
J

Junkers

Active Member
I think I have good contact. The holes on the board are far apart I don't think anything got cross connected. I tested it by hooking up a battery. Nothing gets hot but I do get a small crackle/arc at the battery connector when I plug it in so I guess the esc's have a cap in them?

I also forgot to order the servo cables to hook up the receiver to the flight controller so I ordered them along with a fat shark transporter fpv kit and 10" carbon fiber props.

I was also messing around with the software. I noticed there was mission planner and APM planner. APM planner had a more recent date. Are they the same thing with just a name change?

I'll also try to post some pics later today. I only get about an hour to work on it every evening.
 
J

Junkers

Active Member
Thanks for the info. I'm going to download mission planner and take a look at it. Also I was reading some instructions I found online for the flight controller and found conflicting instructions. As I am powering the electronics through the power module do I need to remove the power wire in the escs or do I need to just remove the jumper on the flight controller? I read two different instructions saying to do it two different ways.
 
holtneil

holtneil

Well-Known Member
Moderator
Hi mate I have never used that board ,But we only use one power lead on one ESCs to power the FCB and receiver if your powering it another way then yes remove red wires DONT cut them just remove them from the plug and cover with heat shrink you never know you may need them at some point
 
J

Junkers

Active Member
Does it create a over voltage issue? I was thinking a redundant power system would be safer in case the regular system failed. Like if the connected came loose.
 
holtneil

holtneil

Well-Known Member
Moderator
Hi may be George will answer that he is more into that , with the KK it can do strange things as a power back up there is a little unit you can make that will switch BECs so fast even the receiver does not see a brown out
If I can find it again I will post link
 
J

Junkers

Active Member
I think im going to scrap my 3d printed frame and buy one. Im worried there might be too much flex in it. I want to fly a tank. Im not looking for one with a small center section, but one that has room to mount everything. I assume my motors are too small for a 600mm frame? anyone have any ideas on a good frame?

Edit Found this frame

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HVPL1Z0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

looks big enough to mount all my stuff and run my 2 3000mah lipos together. Are my 980kv motors with 10x4.5 props a good fit or do i need to do some upgrading?
 
Last edited:
GJH105775

GJH105775

Off and on
Moderator
As I am powering the electronics through the power module do I need to remove the power wire in the escs or do I need to just remove the jumper on the flight controller? I read two different instructions saying to do it two different ways.
Click to expand...

What jumper are you referring to, are you talking about a step-down module? If you have two power sources comming into the FC you could burn it out. You may just remove the hot wire (red), but you may need to leave the black so you have a common neutral. Can you explain with a little more detail what you are asking?
 
J

Junkers

Active Member
Can't check right now because I'm watching a baby but if I remember correctly there is a jumper on my flight controller that let's you either power it through the power module or through the ESC. I'll probably end up just removing the power wire in the esc's just to be safe. If I was to use the esc's would I use all four or just one?
 
GJH105775

GJH105775

Off and on
Moderator
Just one needs to provide power, the others are redundant. Sometimes a little redundancy id good. The Rx only needs one cable to provide power, then the others can just use the data. The ESCs need one to provide the 5v+, and because there are four ESCs you need to have the Data and the neutral on all four, but the 5v+ only on one.



Pinnout
Connectors.jpg
 
holtneil

holtneil

Well-Known Member
Moderator
Hi mate as for motors really want a low KV on the bigger quads like 650kv and run 14x5.5 props , if you want to go with motors you have then 10x4.7 not 10x4.5 will give a bit more lift , your better to run the set up in ecalc.com and see what it comes up with , if your not sure what to put in give us a shout and we will help, found this on your motors it says 10x4.5 gives max lift at 12.4 amps the 10x4.7 will give just a bit more and pull 15amps max
2212 motors.png
 
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