Will the parts I have now work and just not be efficient or don't even try to fly with these parts? Im out of budget right now. After I receive my tax refund I can get anything that needs upgraded. The 10" carbon fiber props I ordered are 4.7. I figured the weight savings from going to carbon fiber from plastic would be enough to get a bigger frame. But Im new to all of this so I will listen to any ideas/tips. Im going to update the main post with the updated parts. If there is something I need that isn't listed let me know because I will not have it. My new frame will be here tomorrow so Im going to spend today researching how to wire everything up and maybe create a wire diagram.
My first build, with a few questions.
- Thread starter Junkers
- Start date
Check YouTube, there are a lot of good videos there. Also could you update your post with all of the current parts you have selected? After you get everything tested you need to remember that cable management is important. I used heat-shrink and zipties, the wiring is pretty strait forward. I may be making a diagram of the wiring on my quadcopter here in a day or so. It may be of use to you.
Hi Junkers the motors will spin the props, if you have a 30amp esc your be good to go , I used 10x4.7 on 30 amp esc they never even got warm
But that was on a 550mm well I had it on a 666mm devils frame but dont look for really long flight times unless you up the battery mah
If it was me I would go with it ,it will fly well even if its only for 5 mins
But that was on a 550mm well I had it on a 666mm devils frame but dont look for really long flight times unless you up the battery mah
If it was me I would go with it ,it will fly well even if its only for 5 mins
I would be using 2 - 3000mAH bat's together. The only issue i can see with this set up is that my power module can only hook up to one battery unless I do some more soldering and my fatshark fpv hooks up to the balance wires. How can i keep the batteries balanced or will they even themselves out? I though if just hooking the batteries strait to the power distribution board then hook the power module to it or does it need power flowing through it to function properly? Or is there a better way to power everything that im not thinking of?
I will probably upgrade the motors and props when I get my tax refund back. Considering the parts I have and that I don't really need to go fast, just looking for flight time, What motors and props would you guys recommend?
I will probably upgrade the motors and props when I get my tax refund back. Considering the parts I have and that I don't really need to go fast, just looking for flight time, What motors and props would you guys recommend?
I was thinking of soldering two battery leads to the distribution board then soldering the power module to the other end of the board. I just don't know if i use that set up if I will still have the voltage monitor in the OSD. Which is really the only reason I want to use the power module.
I'll probably just end up getting a single larger mah battery because it will solve all the issues I face right now.
Just wish I had more time to spend on it. Having a 2 month old and working six days a week really limits the time ibget to spend on myself.
I'll probably just end up getting a single larger mah battery because it will solve all the issues I face right now.
Just wish I had more time to spend on it. Having a 2 month old and working six days a week really limits the time ibget to spend on myself.
well got everything in today. The frame is a bit bigger then i was expecting but i like it. It went together ok just wish there was some instructions that came with it or online. I had to put it together by the picture on amazon. I am going to have to upgrade the motors and props and it looks like there is two nice spots for batteries. I just have to get dimensions and see what size will fit in it. ill post some pics up here in a few
Yeah no instructions anywhere online. Well here she is. She is put together loose as I still have to locktite everything and i didnt want to start to put locktite on everything incase i put it together wrong. The 10" props look small. Think im going to go with 12" props. but im a week away to be able to order anything else.
This is the layout of the electronics that im thinking about doing.ESC's under the motors, GPS up front, will put it on some stand offs to raise it up, Flight control in the middle. Telemetry on the left rear and FPV on the right rear. RC receiver will go under the gps in the midframe. power distribution under the flight controller and battery under the telemetry and fatshark. I could move the battery to under the power distribution under the copter for better balance. There are two fiber rods it could fit between. Any issues with this layout?
Also what is the correct way to align the motors since its mounting to a tube?
This is the layout of the electronics that im thinking about doing.ESC's under the motors, GPS up front, will put it on some stand offs to raise it up, Flight control in the middle. Telemetry on the left rear and FPV on the right rear. RC receiver will go under the gps in the midframe. power distribution under the flight controller and battery under the telemetry and fatshark. I could move the battery to under the power distribution under the copter for better balance. There are two fiber rods it could fit between. Any issues with this layout?
Also what is the correct way to align the motors since its mounting to a tube?
One improvement you could make is to get the transmitter module and the Rx as far away from each other as possible. This reduces both EMI and RFI. 5.8ghz and 2.5ghz are fairly far apart, but there still can be interference. The GPs, Rx, and vtx should be far apart as you are able. As for aligning them, I would do it by eye or take a strait edge from one arm to the next. Holtneil may have a trick that can be used. Anywhere the PDB will secure good should be fine. As for fastening the ESCs I like to use hot-glue (to make a pad for vibration dampening and keep it from slipping around) and a zip tie with metal inserts. This allows you to take it off without ruining the zip-tie.
I edited this after your reply
I edited this after your reply
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Hi Junkers she is looking good , if you want to mount ESC under the arms get some large bore heat shrink and pop off motor mount slide heat shrink on the arm ,put esc inside heat shrink looks really nice when done , one big thing I would do right now is get rid of the rubber ducks and fit some pingpongs on there mount one tx under the quad and one on top this will stop them from blocking each others signals
Good idea mounting the telemetery up top and fatshark below. I dont really need to upgrade the antennas yet as i wont do any longer range flying for a while, so the ones i have now will work well for me. Whats the best way to mount the electronics that dont have screw wholes? double sided tape and zip ties? Also is there a good way to mount the motors on the arms and get them square?
The esc's arent getting mounted to the arms. There is a plate under the motors they are getting mounted to and the power wires for them are going inside the tube for a clean looking install.
The esc's arent getting mounted to the arms. There is a plate under the motors they are getting mounted to and the power wires for them are going inside the tube for a clean looking install.
Hi mate If you build on a level table mount the motor mounts on the arms loose , then level all 4 at the time so the quad is level and mounts are also level , I run my wires in side the arms on my 700 does look a lot nicer
as for receivers I use Velcro and a ziptie so I can remove them is I need to for repairs
as for receivers I use Velcro and a ziptie so I can remove them is I need to for repairs