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I suggest you get and stick with XT60 connectors, and unless you decide to do an octocopter or maybe hexacopter (depending on the motors) I would suggest sou get this battery made by Turnigy, under their Multistar line. It is lighter as it has a lower C rate. 52 amps constant and 104 amps @...

Any noticeable delay, yes that would mean you have something wrong with the hardware/software or just cheap hardware.

Lower signals penetrate better, higher signals have more bandwidth as if you can send information faster with 5 cycles (or bits) per second than with 1 cycle, or bit per second. Now you also have bands to consider as you usually don't need the full bandwidth of a signal so the signal gets...

Well to start with 2.4 would have slightly better penetration, but less bandwidth, so lower potential resolution.

If it is hobby grade the motors are 3-Phase. Can you give a link, or picture of the bad motor? Sounds like a toy grade Syma or something else as not much hobby grade stuff runs on 1C.

you can get a cheap one for 20$

Yeah, Naza or maybe APM. both are great, in this case you really get what you pay for.

The specs I read say 12v, should be fine with just a 3S LiPo, Li-Ion or LiFe.

800-980KV motors 3S, 4000mAh - 5200mAh (I suggest the multistar 5200) battery a radio and reciever, the Turnigy 9X is good A KK2.1.5 flight controller a power distribution board if the fame did not have one built in 20-30 amp ESCs depending on the motor's max amperage 2 blade, 10x4.7 - 12x3.7 props

What reciever are you using? I just used the 12v from my 3S LiPo with a XT60 connector.

Well to start with about how big do you need? What do you plan to lift?

Hows everything going?

100 USD? You will probably have to get a toy grade, if you could do around 250$ you could build a 250mm racer. There are some kits that are around your budget, but the parts won't last too long. How firm is your budget, and what capabilities are you looking to have?

Be ready to sift through a few thousand lines of code trying to get the thing just to lift 2 inches off the ground hahaha. Believe me when I say that once you get it to take off 2 inches you will cry from pure joy, and at that moment it will flip or fly into something and destroy your last 70...

What type of editing are you using to need the ability to render in 4K? If only editing then the options are going to be a lot simpler than if you need to do some 3D, 4K rendering.

Ok, board appears to work, but the LCD is not. LCD stands for liquid crystal display, it works by blocking light that passes through it whenever voltage is supplied to certain crystals in the screen. The back-light on your board appears to be working, but the screen does not. Sounds like...

I power my v1 set with a 11.1v (actually ~12.5v at full) 3S lipo. The same 3S lipo I use on some of my quads. I believe you made a mistake by getting the V1 goggles hahaha. Might upgrade some time down the road as the v2 are a lot better quality.

Hahahaahaha. Sounds good.

Can you provide a picture? Sounds like you just need to plug them back in or push the ends back into the connector.