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What are you willing to spend per set or motor. 2205-7 will work but IMO a 2306 will swing that prop better. With a 30amp esc, or 20amp with the 2205.

Standard size for a few battery's so a few options to chose from. Can't hurt to bump up the C rating aswell.

Can't you change ratio withe the osd control for the cam. I wouldn't know if the HD3 has that option as they won't & are not making any goggles with bigger IPD. So sod them.

6 inch frame or takes 6 inch props. If 6inch props then something beefy like a 2306. The new dys range or emax.

Tell me about it, my wife goes to every local show & what not. I got dressed up once & got mortaled & bumped into a few lads from work. They won't let me forget & call me Frank.

No the i6 needs just a USB cable & off you go. Really I don't know why this was thought up.

The thread title had me going.:oops: Anyone seen Rocky horror. o_O

Easier just to plug your tx to a USB & into a pc. When the weather is bad I PlayStation or tinker. Thought someone would have made a sim for consoles seeing as the sticks are on the pads.

I'll go with the above aswell. With 10" props. Preferably carbon.

All bad for the ticker. Although I do like a peperami now & again.

I'm glad I don't have a need for all that baloney. I just like being a bird now & again, tweet tweet o_O

Stick with the separate esc's IMO. Not much weight difference if any at all. & a 3in1 is no good to anyone. Now if your racing that's different

I got a buck converter but no led on it. Just mod a female socket onto it so can be unplugged. Xt30 are solid units. Just as much space as servo pins in the end. So thing to hot glue around.

Best not put any FPV gear on till at least can keep it for a few packs without crashing.

You got this far but don't know how trims works. Isn't that a bit like designing a car only to be flummoxed by the indicators. Sorry I don't know my best answer is by wires. :D

In the past setpoint & transition where changed & after probably not flying for a few weeks in winter, and though this feels sluggish. & couldn't put my finger on it. I knew I hadn't changed settings just updated. Mr Bardwell done a recent video but it was RC addict who I learned about this &...

I'd put that away for a rainy day ,u never know with a bit more experience ,u may find a solution.

You can get failsafe @ close ranges. Just like no bind if its too close. If it persists, see a doctor.

You only want to update, not change version. Fast start or crazy fast start or imperial march are multushot. But there is newer versions. If you pick that top box & change it, well unless you remember what version & have it in the list. You may have trouble finding it again.

If this doesn't work try a board reset on the setup tab next to gyro calibration. But don't load any previous saved settings. Start fresh.