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Oh facepalm sorry I had forgotten that was a thing. With pit mode the vtx (or FC forget which one) will be off or low power if it isn't getting signal from the FC to turn on I think but never used a FC or vtx with that feature. Personally I fly freestyle for fun mostly so I usually just plug...

Yah not sure double check continuity from the battery bullet connectors/plug to the vtx maybe just a "cold solder" or something that's really only thing I can think of that would stop voltage from showing up there from the battery. Show some pics of just vtx power connection if still not...

Would try to check voltage at vtx input with a voltmeter/multimeter see if can confirm the voltage in is in range.

Ah you powering the vtx off the FC? If so using battery power to the FC (USB to FC will only give it 5V)? Would have to check if FC puts out at least 7V on that line too it may be 5V out. Usually there is a 12V pad for led strip power or other things that need more than 5V will see if I can...

Eh? You mean when you hook up battery got some pics to show your setup progress.

Yup should be good with just the three connections in terms of some video getting sent out. The smart audio is an optional way to use on screen menus from your goggles or display to change the vtx power output or channel settings. If the vtx has no display on it then I'd definitely hook up the...

In general for vtx just need three wires the power and gnd are two and the third is video signal into the vtx which needs to come from the video out or Vo pin on the FC board. Usually the vtx will have pretty wide power input options regarding voltage so you may want to give it direct battery...

Yup I think RX1 is typically used for receiver input. You'll have to check manual for FC if want to be sure since some of them only have ability to handle certain protocols with certains pins of the MCU (brain/big black chip in middle of board). According to the diagram this one will support...

Needed to clear out some memory so here it is :D I have some flights around some cool buildings in the suburbs out here too but unfortunately had some crappy prop on there at the time so vid was pretty shaky (worse than usual).

Huh looks like JB has a series on this :D sorry to hear it you are so close though don't give up :)

Also so long as motor stop isn't enabled (think off by default) then just toggling the arm switch back and forth should be enough to go from spinning to not spinning and back.

Looked mostly fine to me in terms of procedure. I usually turn on my tx first so as soon as receiver gets power it sees the tx and is sending "normal" info along to the FC. Also startup tones indicated ESCs good and motors good and FC to ESCs good so that's all good like you said motors...

Lots of same things I said here and you checked already but maybe something on this page helps https://www.google.com/amp/s/blog.dronetrest.com/quadcopter-not-arming-how-to-solve-in-betaflight/amp/

Maybe get a little vid recording posted to YouTube and share here if not too difficult as well might be able to see between what you're doing with the quad and the transmitter what's going wrong. If you have fpv gear plan on hooking up probably worth doing to get the warnings on screen about...

Make sure quad is pretty level on ground or in configuration tab can set the max arm angle to 180 and I think disables that check. Also make sure throttle is at 0 when you try to go from disarm to arm (flipping the switch)

So yah things to verify you didn't do: Short power and gnd anywhere. Put power into a signal line (short between power and signal pads) Reverse polarity swapped a red and black somewhere where red is positive and black is gnd or negative.

Yup that looks good so with the little yellow tick sitting between the two handles it's in arm mode and when you flick switch it should go to disarm mode. You want it in disarm position when you plug in quad and sit it on the ground then use arm switch. So long as you didn't select motor stop...

Cool that looks good your high low and mid values make sense (should be 1000-2000 with 1500 as mid). Drift in the receiver tab preview indicates stick center isn't perfect can either adjust deadband (make it bigger to ignore more of center stick) or can calibrate the tx possibly if things...

Most computer USB chipsets will only put out 500mA of power at max and most of the circuits can deal with that current for quite a while before the heat becomes a problem. Conversely once you hook up battery there is a ton of amperage available and current will flow based on resistance of...

Looking pretty good so far. You might want to get or use some side cutters to snip that little extra bit of GND wire from the cam board going to FC but doesn't appear to be bridging any connection so should be fine as is. For receiver hook up just need power to receiver so red wire to 5v and...