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Oh yah I mean this was just a for fun thing and to do some things with the polycarbonate filament but if needed the part to be solid can just print with more than one outer layer or like you said progressively ramping the part cooling fan speed up somewhat works, I did that for the ones here...

Hah thanks yah they are fun prints for sure and only like 45-50m with polycarb settings. These I was playing with temp and fan/cooling tuning to see if could avoid the melty tip but jacked fans to 100 on the one that failed and the temp dropped too quick so stopped extruding momentarily...

My own vid with some black box viewer log data over it.... I didn't say isn't possible I offered two ways to do it but OP doesn't seem to know what they want?

How are you expecting to play back the stick motions? you can record with a flight controllers black box and play back with blackbox log viewer, can also pass control through shown in vid on post above. Alternative can just use a "special function" to activate log capture to SD card but need...

https://github.com/betaflight/blackbox-log-viewer Alternatively https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3304

Betaflight itself will capture the control input as part of the blackbox logs (gets played back with "black box log viewer") you can also use a FC running betaflight to passthrough the control signals to the computer to act as a wireless USB receiver basically. If you can have both those things...

Nice haven't posted here in a while but was just messing with polycarbonate for first time, examples above. It has to be printed hot!!! and no fan but does turn out pretty cool looking, just noticed we made same vase there :D

Not to be the safety police or anything since I've personally done way dumber things with my quad but holding it with props on is asking for trouble. When bench testing *always* take your props off. The ESC can get a signal it interprets as "go full throttle" at an point in time for whatever...

You could try lowering the output power on the VTX since it is working for a few seconds reducing the amplified power would reduce heat on it and may stop it from overheating and shutting down, also potentially adding heatsink could salvage it but would be suspect of the VTX at this point.

Seems likely to me the VTX fried at some point (it happens pretty often if don't have an antenna hooked up to VTX or it gets knocked free and the VTX is trying to transmit still can overheat itself cause no where for that amplified signal to go out of the thing). Regarding the OSD question...

Yah honestly if can find a decent refurb computer ideally with "discrete graphics" (can be under $300 sometime, which is around Chromebook prices) then would be in a better spot for configuring and updating things. Also just good if have a computer that can at least run some sims/games to...

Ah gotcha yah could definitely understand not wanting to buy a computer for this one hobby. Think can probably get by using the phone apps and occasionally jumping to a computer when needed

Just saw this vid looks relevant

If you have a laptop watching a 10min starter vid on betaflight should be enough to get familiar given you have experience with speedy bee and know some terminology already is just matter of knowing what's where and remembering to save after changes on tabs. If have any sort of computer suggest...

If you can't exchange the big one can usually use it as a supply for recharging things on the go or for goggle or tx battery power since does store a lot of power just might need buck converter to drop the voltage a bit depending on what feeding the power into.

Yup get 3 or 4 with that capacity (1300-1550mAh) and a parallel charge board with fuses can charge them together so long as starting voltage is close (with a tenth or two of a volt between two packs they will self level between them if voltage diff too high the fuse on parallel board will blow)

All that said even at 25mW you should be able to fly like a baseball field without losing reception or a park so would double check the antenna connection to be sure the GND and coax core are both connected to the AIO PCB

After a fresh connection if the power output is saved and working then pretty sure it shouldn't revert in what betaflight shows but tbh not entirely sure it took me a few attempts as well to get it to unlock but then when is changed the power output or channels I was able to use ones that were...

Make sure your antenna is still connected to the AIO may sound silly but if zip tied onto the frame like I did then can shake itself loose from the board may just need some tiny soldering. Also double check it is in fact unlocked you might be running on low power, in general the vid on it has...

No I think it's still 5.8GHz video the 2.4 elrs or ExpressLRS is a control link for the transmitter and controlling it