Need help with PDB and where to solder!!!

Hook the VTX to the PDB 5V output and hook the camera to the VTX via the yellow video signal and power the camera off the black and red wire next to the yellow wire coming off the VTX. Basically the red and black by themselves are likely going to be the power input and the other connector is meant to go to the video input and can supply power to the camera. You could alternatively try powering the camera off the 5V or 12V or probably directly off your batteries if you are flying 3S but having the circuitry on the PDB plus the regulator in the VTX should help to reduce any noise coming back to the main battery circuit from the ESCs.

You should hook the lipo on the PDB where it has it marked as LiPo with the big pads for the thicker gauge wire, the power to the ESCs goes on the other big pads on the 'left/right' of the PDB and accessories you just pick and choose based on supported voltage which of the small pads to connect them to.
 
Oh also missed it first time around but the PDB has the two holes spaced so you can just solder a female xt-60 onto the PDB instead of wires optionally.

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Also can use a continuity test mode on a multimeter to see what pads are connected to what other pads electrically on the PDB generally speaking all the GND/- pads are connected. The 5V will come right off a 5V regulator and 12V off the 12V regulator
 
No problem mozquito makes a good point too if you plan to have the FC do the on screen display (OSD) then you'd want the yellow wire video signal from camera to go into the FC video in and the FC video out would go to the video transmitter video signal in that case
 
Thanks for the help! ALSO: I have a Quanum V2 DIY FPV goggles, and I bought a Video Reciever (from China), but it does not work. Should I just buy the nice Quanum Diversity Receiver (Found Here) or completely upgrade to some Eachine Goggles (Found Here)? I want to know which one would be better to get...

I feel like such a noob. Please help.
 
Goggles and FPV gear you strap on your head is largely based on opinion/desires/budget. Would say if you're happy (enough) with the look of the existing box goggles then just stick with them and get the diversity module save yourself some cash. Comparison between diversity modules in any sort of objective way is pretty difficult. Personally just moved from using box goggles to fatsharks but have been using the box goggles for over a year and didn't have any means of upgrading to diversity without just replacing the goggles (or doing some invasive surgery) so I just went all the way when making the transition and got HDOs with LaForge modules, can't complain really with regard to the quality of components but it's not as if there is 0 signal loss because of more expensive gear it just means I can fly further before losing said signal and when the picture is coming in things look much crisper. Nice thing with fat sharks or any other modular goggles is the ability to eventually upgrade the receiver modules as things are improved upon but there's definitely an extra price hike for that modularity and design:

https://www.fpvknowitall.com/ultimate-fpv-shopping-list-fpv/

^^ think this page does a good job covering options and reasons you might choose one over another for your case right now though if I were you I'd just get the upgraded diversity module if the new box goggles don't have a greatly improved display (resolution or contrast) over the one you have on hand.
 
IsaacS said:
Thanks for the help! ALSO: I have a Quanum V2 DIY FPV goggles, and I bought a Video Reciever (from China), but it does not work. Should I just buy the nice Quanum Diversity Receiver (Found Here) or completely upgrade to some Eachine Goggles (Found Here)? I want to know which one would be better to get...

I feel like such a noob. Please help.
Click to expand...

To help is one of the jobs in this community :)
 
IsaacS said:
One last question: If I switched out the Eachine Camera (Found Here) for a Foxeer Monster Pro Mini (Found Here), do I still solder in the same places as suggested earlier in this thread?
Click to expand...
Yup input voltage range is large 5V-40V but would still take power off the vtx so long as it works if the camera doesn't power up next option would be the PDB 5V basically want the power to be as filtered as it can be from noise in the ESC lines.
 
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