Need help on building a quad

Thanks all. :) Will be ordering the parts soon. Perhaps ill log the build on here as well. Last question, will this have any chance in a race with other quads this size? I also have a chisel tip soldering iron: Should i get a smaller tip?
Yes & yes, hence it's going to be a tight build for your first. Get a pointed tip.
Everyone has there own way of soldering. Me personally I only use an 18w for these small 20x20mm boards. You got the list down now it's just keeping the weight down on wires & what not.
 
I've decided to modify the list now, mainly do to my inability to decide :rolleyes:. I'm also packing in a few tools, feel free to comment if I need to change anything, I'm missing something (prefer to be on the safe side, so if in doubt, please comment anyways), or you know something I don't. (i.e., an unreliable seller, I'm getting ripped off, thats an overkill.)

FLUX: https://www.amazon.com/SRA-Water-So...493582195&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=flux+pens+#80
$9.03

SOLDER: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Aven-20g-60-40-Solder-Tube-17552/206320656
$1.80

WELDING WIRE. o_Onope, you read that right. Planning to use it to make my own antennas https://www.amazon.co.uk/0-8mm-Copper-Coated-Welding-Welder/dp/B01MUAJBSY
$20.92

MOTOR: http://www.myrcmart.com/rcx-h1105-v...less-motor-for-120150-frame-59g-p-9349.html?=
$10.99 apiece, so $43.96

PROPS: http://www.myrcmart.com/3x22-ttype-...otor-propeller-series-pairs-green-p-9021.html
$0.99 for 4 ccw and 4 cw

FRAME: https://flexrc.com/product/pico-x-silver-frame/
$32.50

FC/ESC/Receiver: https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-Mi...d95-p-1127223.html?ID=529570&cur_warehouse=CN
$59.99

Batteries: https://indestructiblequads.com/pro...ing-lipo-550mah-battery?variant=2531570941976
$11
 
If I was you I wouldn't get the flux pens, to dirty, I would suggest rosin core solder wire(flux already in it) & some rubbing alcohol to rub the residual flux off.
A multi-meter is a must.
Zip ties
Double sided tape
Velcro
Battery connections Xt30, Jst. Get half a dozen of M/Fm. Then it doesn't matter what battery you buy if you need to change connector. I find Lipo's with XT are a little bit more. But I don't mind swapping em if it saves money. :cool:
The meter is a must, it's saved me a bit of money & time.
 
Make yourself a Smoke Stopper, it's a must. I'm in the middle of a new build and it's already saved me from frying a $100 flight controller
 
Fine tip soldering iron. Oh I just noticed you going with the 10amp 4in1.
Which you are limited to a 1S maybe 2S
Lipo. But you are intending to buy 3S Lipo's in your list. To use them batteries, you would have to get the stack RENOV8R found. If you put a 3s into a 1S board your gonna see money go poof.
So I've just saved you some cash already.
You need to start looking at the specs & make sure the voltages are compatible.
Fcb's, pdb's, esc's are all rated 1-6S.
Although these limits can be pushed but it's through trial & error & @ your own risk. If you want somthing to race with or get around race speeds. At least get the stack RENOV8R found & some emax 1106
That setup will take 2S+3S+4S.
My emax taken a beating & are OK.
I don't use anything else unless a customer wants different or cheaper.
But £12 & getting cheaper. Dys have a new range out which I want to try.
 
:eek: ... FLUX IS YOUR FRIEND ... Just because you're using rosin core solder doesn't mean you don't want to use flux too. (NASA certified solderer)

For a "first build" you're not only making it harder on yourself by going this small but you'll also likely want something with more power and
"real estate" sooner than later ... I'd skip that teeny tiny frame ( two inch props max ?!) because you're probably going to quickly want something
that can handle 4 inchers AND chunkier batteries. But if a "micro" is the way you wanna go, that's up to you. :confused:

That "Crazy Pony" is not a balancing charger, it's a multi-battery charging adapter that you can hook up to a battery charger ( not advised).
The point of using a balancing charger is the monitoring of the individual cells in a (single) pack to equalize them. Charging multiple battery
packs at once forfeits that ability. Get an iMax B6AC and charge the batteries one at a time. :D

You're getting a camera, but what will you be looking at it with ?
 
Mince pies :D

A worthy subject.

On my first trip to the UK, I was traveling with my boss and stopped for gas and food. He came out and handed me something and said, "Pork pie - try it". I did and I liked it. He said his was a lard pie - I was never sure if he pulling my leg - but I was not going to try it.
 
Yeah I agree it is an intermediate to
semi pro :D build. Smaller components don't take as long to heat up. So be careful. Get the solder on quick.
This board below has been in multiple quads & not once I have I used any flux.
If you don't get it all off it corrodes the board. That boards 2years old with possibly 100hrs flight time & still working. IMG_20180105_174531254_HDR-768x1367.jpg IMG_20180105_174508544_HDR-768x1367.jpg
 
:eek: ... FLUX IS YOUR FRIEND ... Just because you're using rosin core solder doesn't mean you don't want to use flux too. (NASA certified solderer)

I know where all my future soldering questions are going.

For a "first build" you're not only making it harder on yourself by going this small but you'll also likely want something with more power and
"real estate" sooner than later ... I'd skip that teeny tiny frame ( two inch props max ?!) because you're probably going to quickly want something
that can handle 4 inchers AND chunkier batteries. But if a "micro" is the way you wanna go, that's up to you. :confused:

I love running across advice like this, from you and everyone else here. I still haven't decided whether I want to build my first "real" quad or buy a BNF first and build my second one. I'll create a new thread at some point with some options of what I'm thinking and hope for some more good stuff like this.
 
Back
Top