looking for 4in1 ESC 6S with 5V BEC

M

miky94

Well-Known Member
Hello,
I'm looking for a 4in1 ESC 6S compatible, my motors at 100% throttle draw a maximum of 28A so I need at least 30A total, 40A would be better.
I also need a 5V BEC for powering my Matek F405-OSD flight controller.
what about these 2, I don't know these brands, are they reliable?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/273703875566
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/BS43...S-firmware-Dshot-4x30A-F3-F4/32918787596.html
I think I'll solder a jst socket connector on the FC so that I can esaily change in future
and do I need a special configuration on the firmware for low kv motors and Li-Ion cells which have lower minimum voltage?
Thanks
 
I don't blame anyone for wanting to save a few bucks, but IMO 4-in-1 ESCs are not the product to do it with. Probably the best most reliable 4-in-1 for your application right now? Spedix GS35 or GS40 32bit
 
RENOV8R said:
I don't blame anyone for wanting to save a few bucks, but IMO 4-in-1 ESCs are not the product to do it with. Probably the best most reliable 4-in-1 for your application right now? Spedix GS35 or GS40 32bit
Click to expand...
because of bad quality of unbranded components? I never bought JMT stuff but I've seen a lot of it on the internet, so it is not good?
originally I found this but is doesn't have a 5V BEC:
https://www.banggood.com/Anniversar...-1-ESC-Built-in-Current-Sensor-p-1180734.html
 
Oh right. I should know this as I have one lol. I'd just go with one of your first choices, as using the Matek board is going to make for a pretty high stack
 
miky94 said:
Hello,
I'm looking for a 4in1 ESC 6S compatible, my motors at 100% throttle draw a maximum of 28A so I need at least 30A total, 40A would be better.
I also need a 5V BEC for powering my Matek F405-OSD flight controller.
what about these 2, I don't know these brands, are they reliable?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/273703875566
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/BS43...S-firmware-Dshot-4x30A-F3-F4/32918787596.html
I think I'll solder a jst socket connector on the FC so that I can esaily change in future
and do I need a special configuration on the firmware for low kv motors and Li-Ion cells which have lower minimum voltage?
Thanks
Click to expand...

I personally favor the individual ESCs too but just have had to swap a few out in the past and it seems easier/cheaper to swap the individual ones vs the 4-in-1, but I see the positives as well with less things to mount to arms and less power wires going everywhere. Regarding the stack height think it's only an issue if you're trying to cram a lot of boards into a small frame (for my frame for example I had to move the arms to mount on the outside instead of the inside as recommended because on the inside I couldn't have my PDB+FC+Runcam board all inside there without possibly shorting on the CF or between each other). If your frame isn't prohibitively small then this isn't really an issue.
 
It will be a big frame so no problem.
for sure changing individual ESCs instead of a 4in1 is easier/cheaper, but I think that having it inside the frame and covered rather than wobbling tight to the arms externally I'd have less chance of damaging it
 
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miky94 said:
It will be a big frame so no problem.
for sure changing individual ESCs instead of a 4in1 is easier/cheaper, but I think that having it inside the frame and covered rather than wobbling tight to the arms externally I'd have less chance of damaging it
Click to expand...
Yah that might be the case I think really with mine they burnt out from motor being stalled against something and the amperage just cooking them out in a few seconds but I can't really be sure might have just been components on the board getting knocked loose too.
 
Yah in general I'm pretty good about disarming before a crash but had at least two occasions when I burnt out ESCs and in one case was out in the field and I think I just didn't notice it was still armed till I got over to it and other time I just hit a supporting beam/pole while slowly cruising around in an empty bar a friend of a friend owns and I just wasn't fast enough to disarm it (was only still trying to spin props for a few seconds afterwards but was enough to burn it out)
 
I found this
https://www.racerstar.com/Racerstar...-Integrated-Current-Voltage-Sensor-p-140.html
at about the same price of REV35 + FCHUB-6S
it has 5V 3A BEC and current and voltage sensor, is AIO board so smaller and lighter
unlike the REV35 there is written 4x30A so it should have a 4x30 = 120A of constant discharge current and I'd have more margin also for future upgrades
what do you think about it?
I read about "de-synchronization" problem on ESCs on low kv motors, what is it? can I set a lower voltage cutoff for Li-Ion cells and how?
 
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I wouldn't worry too much about desync, it's rarely an issue any more with advances in DShot protocol and BLHeli32 ESCs.There are two types of what are referred to as "desync" , basically it is the ESC losing the sync with the motors commutation. This could be the ESC advancing to the next motor coil TOO soon (common if this happens from too low of motor rpm). Or could be not keeping up with the motors rotation (happens at or near full throttle). True ESC de-sync is typically separate from issues caused by poor wiring/soldering of power to ESCs and motors. But poor wiring could cause the ESC to not have the Current it demands to move the motors. Poor wiring's typical symptom is the when throttle is increased quickly or when throttle is at or near full.
 
miky94 said:
I found this
https://www.racerstar.com/Racerstar...-Integrated-Current-Voltage-Sensor-p-140.html
at about the same price of REV35 + FCHUB-6S
it has 5V 3A BEC and current and voltage sensor, is AIO board so smaller and lighter
unlike the REV35 there is written 4x30A so it should have a 4x30 = 120A of constant discharge current and I'd have more margin also for future upgrades
what do you think about it?
I read about "de-synchronization" problem on ESCs on low kv motors, what is it? can I set a lower voltage cutoff for Li-Ion cells and how?
Click to expand...
Yah regarding the cells believe you can set the low voltage warning on the OSD in betaflight but the components typically won't cut off to save your battery as far as I've seen. Typically I just monitor battery via OSD and come down when I'm low.
 
You wouldn't want LVC for a quad like you would a land vehicle as most don't want their quad to randomly fall out of the sky. Like wafflejock said there's settings in Betaflight for low voltage warnings in your OSD and also if you have a Taranis radio, you can set warnings in it as well. Another thing I do is find out how long I can fly before I have to land and then set up a timer on my radio
 
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