Is this everything I need? Any advise? 250 build

C

Codemaker

New Member
Heads up -- I really have no idea what I'm doing.
I want an FPV quadcopter in the 250-150 size range for $525 or less. Ideally, it'd be something I can tinker with, so that it will grow with me throughout college (this is why I'd like to build my own). Flight time should be >5 minutes, and the quad should be reasonably stable. Speed is not a huge priority, but durability is pretty important. How does this look? Am I barking up the completely wrong tree? Know of a cheaper way to do any of this?

I have a soldering iron, some heat shrink, and a free summer ahead of me.

Cost: $475 ($525 if you add $50 for shipping and miscellaneous costs.)
Weight: 356.7g (400g to be safe)

Frame
Polycarbonate 250 - 88g $50
(will the bending cause problems?)

Motors
RCX 1804 2400KV - 56g $50(for all 4)

ESCs
Drone Matters HK Blue Series 12A RapidESC BLHeli 13.1 - 40g $56 (for all 4)

Props
Gemfan 5x3 Propellers - 7g (for all for) $15 (For 20)

Battery
Lumenier 1300mAh Lipo Battery - 100g $18

Flight Control
CC3D - 5.7g $16

Goggles/Video Receiver/Video Transmitter/Camera
Fat Shark Teleporter V3 Video Goggles - 42g $200
(I want the goggles rather than a screen. I saw those cheap $30 ones, but they seem a bit too cheep)

Radio Reciever/Controller
Turnigy 9X 9Ch Transmitter w/ Module & 8ch Receiver (Mode 2) (v2 Firmware) - 18g $70
 
Power distribution board/cable. Also bending may become a problem if you hammer the throttle, and you will want to get plenty of props, you mostly break either CCW or CW, depending on how you fly and what your frame is. I personally always break CCW. Just keep that in mind as you consider how many props you buy haha. 12a ESC is a great choice, they are flashed with BLHeli, many like it and if you want to later you could flash it with. One other note on the frame is you probably will break something on it at some point, so it either needs to have replaceable parts, or the frame be cheap enough that you can pitch it when needed. I build mine as I did not want to have to worry about replacing parts, though it will usually be heavier if you build your own, so it is really only suitable for bigger quads if you don't have a CNC or 3D printer. (mine is like an aluminium M1 Abrams that can fly xD) Everything else really good, I would suggest you pick up an action camera so you can record some of your flight, Runcam would be my choice, mine came in recently and I like it a lot, and am REALLY impressed in how it handles light and darkness.
 
Hi mate
As a newb myself, I would suggest getting a frame with a power distribution board built in. Saves so much hassle. I have a diatone 250 glass fibre frame. Tried a flip with it yesterday and drove it full throttle into the ground lol. All I did was broke a prop. Very good frame in my opinion
 
Hi Terry when you flip a quad you need height when you start off , power up as you flick over cut the power down but not as much to stop the props( if you have the spin when arm option turn it on so motors dont stop) so as you hit just over 90 degs cut power keep stick full back as the quad now goes to 130 degs re-power the quad this will help when flipping , as you get better you need less hight , Good luck
 
Hi mate, I can now do proper flips, and now id like to learn how to do barrel rolls and stuff on itself if you know what I mean
 
If your referring on how to have it automated to do these tricks, then it is the job of the flight controller. if you had an opensource one it could be possible, but with one that is not you would need an Arduino to go between the Rx and the FCB.
 
HI mate if you can now flip forwards and backwards then the rest is easy, start doing side flips( lots of height ) once your doing them put quad into forward flight and as well as pushing collective forward yaw side ways this will roll it ( you may have to up the stick scaling) keep it high to start with as it will loose height
 
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