First Build kit.

mozquito1 said:
But what is a full range rx?
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Notice on this original PWM RX it says 'Park Fly,' an old term to signify limited range.

Another limited range offering.
https://www.banggood.com/Flysky-FS-...-p-1092861.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
 
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I went for the one you recommended @Jackson. Watching YouTube videos and it seems the new one can also monitor the battery voltage.

This compares the older and the new FlySky FS-i6X


 
Im doing this for a friend. It's a heap of #! %* but it will fly. No fpv gear just LOS also.
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Some of these parts are 3 years old & still working, like the old pwm rx which I depinned. I took the connectors off the SPF3 so I had to hardwire the 6 pwm wires to the IO pads. Very tricky soldering.
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Looks a total mess but it will shift when it's finished.
 
Do you have any more pictures @mozquito1 from a bit further out to show the shape of the quad?
My design is all about avoiding too much soldering. I want to do some but not too much :-)
I have ordered a cheap Iron station today so practice beacons.
 
You got an old TV or hi-fi you could practice on. :cool:
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These are just some 5v leds out of old torches or bike lights. Believe me if you fly at dusk or later you need them.
May save you kicking through nettles for 2 hours, as these simonk esc's don't beep on idle. IMG_20180305_111118148-1024x575.jpg
The motors I'm using are old 1806 DYS.
They zip with some Dal dual blade.
Like I said it looks a mess if I can find the top plate I'll put it on. But when I give it to him, if he busts it all he got to do is take a pic & send it to me for easy instructions on a fix. If I don't put the plate on I will coat it all with silicon. Once dry you can cut it neatly & peel it off to resoldering.
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This was it when I used it. Sure is tough for a fibreglass frame. & below is the squad now.
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Thinking of getting a small wing for some long range beach flying & video. Those are crazy fast. Quads can be waterproofed but they sink. A wing will float.
 
The old banger above would weigh probably an ounce or maybe more with all the pins & cases still left on.
He didn't want to spend anything & all it cost me was £10 for 2 esc's. If he gets into it then I got myself a spotter. Save dragging the mrs out:oops:
 
I am think about this flight controller.

Seriously Pro SP Racing F3 DELUXE 10DOF

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seriousl...hash=item3d2568f724:m:mOBNKPHgXvpAg6yytGVB5BA

As it seems to have the option for altitude hold which would be an advantage for aerial photography.

It also provides a compass which may help with GPS enable route guidance? (making that bit up :-) clearly I don't need it now just thinking it may future proof the card?)

At about £5 more than the 6DOF, do you think it is worth the extra?

Not knowing my DOF's yet a quick google found.
"Degrees Of Freedom" or "DOF" is a number of axis and sensors combined for balancing a plane, a helicopter or a robot.

https://playground.arduino.cc/Main/WhatIsDegreesOfFreedom6DOF9DOF10DOF11DOF

So it seems I would need 11 DOF for GPS.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
roger jones said:
I am think about this flight controller.

Seriously Pro SP Racing F3 DELUXE 10DOF

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seriousl...hash=item3d2568f724:m:mOBNKPHgXvpAg6yytGVB5BA

As it seems to have the option for altitude hold which would be an advantage for aerial photography.

It also provides a compass which may help with GPS enable route guidance? (making that bit up :) clearly I don't need it now just thinking it may future proof the card?)

At about £5 more than the 6DOF, do you think it is worth the extra?

Not knowing my DOF's yet a quick google found.
"Degrees Of Freedom" or "DOF" is a number of axis and sensors combined for balancing a plane, a helicopter or a robot.

https://playground.arduino.cc/Main/WhatIsDegreesOfFreedom6DOF9DOF10DOF11DOF

So it seems I would need 11 DOF for GPS.

Thanks for your thoughts.
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MPU 6050 gyro - yuck (Canadian for no good)
 
Hi @RENOV8R ,

While the F3 10DOF is "Yuck" :-)

The MPU 6050 is getting expensive.

Cant see my build budget, stretching to the MPU 6050.

But I am interested to clarify the "Yuck" :-)

Poor quality?
Is the 6DOF and better for a first build?
Do you have personal experience of the F3 10DOF?

I am looking to learn before I leap :-)
 
Not the quality, it's the processing speed. You really want a fc with an MPU6000. While there's no difference in hardware between the 6000 and 6050, but the bus that connects them to the CPU is different. Most use an SPI bus now, but the 6050 uses a 12C so it's too slow to even process 8k gyro update. Here's a decent F4 flight controller with MPU6000 gyro and SPI sensor

https://www.getfpv.com/electronics/...trollers/betaflight-f4-flight-controller.html
 
No, that's correct. Like I said, you want an MPU 6000, not a 6050. That being said, you probably wouldn't notice the difference between the 2. Problem would arise when you start adding magnetometer and GPS, your CPU load would go through the roof with the 6050
 
Sorry @RENOV8R you did say that very clearly. Sorry for making you say it twice. :-)

This reminds me of building PC's, oh if you get that motherboard your bottleneck will be the RAM or the hard disk speed etc :-)

I am thinking the lower spec F3 may be good enough for now, to get her airborne without a bank loan. Then when my flying improves I can work out what to upgrade for whichever direction of the hobby I want to try next.
 
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