Eachine Racer 250 New Board

S

Shadow277

Well-Known Member
So I noticed that a capacitor on my drone has been knocked off and I cannot find it after a crash.
The VTX gains power but does not sync with my monitor. I tried a different camera by Horizon Hobbies and all it does is get hot.
Would buying a new power board remedy this issue? If so, would I have to tune the drone?
 
Ive heard of guys flying without the capacitors, but they are available on ebay and I think amazon pretty cheap. I think they just use those capacitors for power filters. Guys are also hot gluing them and checking them often because they vibrate loose or jar loose during crashes. If your vtx gets warm you have power but you could check for 12vt and a good ground. If you have that and tried every channel with no picture you probably need a vtx.

The vtx on the er250 is kind of cheap. I went through several along with cameras until I switched to other brands. I had a pdb start to fail and began wiring to bypass the thin copper strips in the board, until more things started to fail. If that happens you can get a matek board with a 5 vt ubec and just bypass the board entirely. Its kinda a lot of work because the fcb is specifically designed to pair with the lower pdb, but it can be done. You could avoid some of the work by just getting a open source cc3d with normal esc pins. If tou do that you probably should just get new escs with normal esc connecters, because you simonks will need wire extentions for both power and ground and signal. If you get a new fcb and escs you will have to tune. If you keep the same fcb you might not have to tune, but you still might have to if you add lots of wiring and change things around. Just do what you have to do, and deal with the tuning later if needed.
 
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Altsickeness said:
Ive heard of guys flying without the capacitors, but they are available on ebay and I think amazon pretty cheap. I think they just use those capacitors for power filters. Guys are also hot gluing them and checking them often because they vibrate loose or jar loose during crashes. If your vtx gets warm you have power but you could check for 12vt and a good ground. If you have that and tried every channel with no picture you probably need a vtx.

The vtx on the er250 is kind of cheap. I went through several along with cameras until I switched to other brands. I had a pdb start to fail and began wiring to bypass the thin copper strips in the board, until more things started to fail. If that happens you can get a matek board with a 5 vt ubec and just bypass the board entirely. Its kinda a lot of work because the fcb is specifically designed to pair with the lower pdb, but it can be done. You could avoid some of the work by just getting a open source cc3d with normal esc pins. If tou do that you probably should just get new escs with normal esc connecters, because you simonks will need wire extentions for both power and ground and signal. If you get a new fcb and escs you will have to tune. If you keep the same fcb you might not have to tune, but you still might have to if you add lots of wiring and change things around. Just do what you have to do, and deal with the tuning later if needed.
Click to expand...
So why wouldn't the new camera work with my drone if I can get it to sync with my fpv gear?
No camera can work when hooked to the power supply of my drone. How would buying a new transmitter and maybe a camera allow me to gain FPV?
 
Shadow277 said:
So why wouldn't the new camera work with my drone if I can get it to sync with my fpv gear?
No camera can work when hooked to the power supply of my drone. How would buying a new transmitter and maybe a camera allow me to gain FPV?
Click to expand...
What do you mean "get it to sync with my fpv gear"?
First of All did you buy a 5vt or a 12 vt camera and what voltage do you have at the camera connecter?
What voltage do you have at the vtx?
 
Altsickeness said:
What do you mean "get it to sync with my fpv gear"?
First of All did you buy a 5vt or a 12 vt camera and what voltage do you have at the camera connecter?
What voltage do you have at the vtx?
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Sync: Get the camera to send video feed to my monitor that has the receiver.
I'm still new but I must figure out what 5vt and 12vt means. What I do know is that the 600mw transmitter that I think broke does require a much higher voltage as opposed to the Horizon Hobby 25mw camera. The Horizon camera needs 3.7v while my original set up needs like 6v.
 
Shadow277 said:
Sync: Get the camera to send video feed to my monitor that has the receiver.
I'm still new but I must figure out what 5vt and 12vt means. What I do know is that the 600mw transmitter that I think broke does require a much higher voltage as opposed to the Horizon Hobby 25mw camera. The Horizon camera needs 3.7v while my original set up needs like 6v.
Click to expand...

This is the ER250 replacement camera:http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-Racer-250-Drone-Spare-Part-PAL-1000TVL-Camera-14-Cmos-p-1007090.html
It's a 12 volt camera plus or minus 10%. This means you are running 12 volts to your camera plug. If your camera is not rated to handle 12 volts, its likely you smoked your new camera. If you want to run a lower vt camera (5vts) you need a stepdown relay that converts 12 volts down to 5 volts like a Ubec.
 
Altsickeness said:
This is the ER250 replacement camera:http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-Racer-250-Drone-Spare-Part-PAL-1000TVL-Camera-14-Cmos-p-1007090.html
It's a 12 volt camera plus or minus 10%. This means you are running 12 volts to your camera plug. If your camera is not rated to handle 12 volts, its likely you smoked your new camera. If you want to run a lower vt camera (5vts) you need a stepdown relay that converts 12 volts down to 5 volts like a Ubec.
Click to expand...
The new one works. It just has like 10ft of range. :P
So if the transmitter gets hot, could it still be broken? Should I just get a new camera and transmitter?
 
Shadow277 said:
Okay, so the only thing to do is buy a battery for my VTX system and see if it works? If not, buy a new receiver and camera?
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Okay so now I'm confused. You said, "The new one works. It just has like 10ft of range." So what works and what doesn't work?
Are saying you only have video for 10 feet and beyond that range you don't have video?
 
I have two cameras. The stock one for Eachine Racer 250. That one I am unsure if it works anymore.
I bought a cheap FPV from Horizon Hobby. It has very short range. The only way to increase range is to buy a whole new VTX system.
But how do I know if the Eachine Racer 250 VTX is broken?
 
Shadow277 said:
I have two cameras. The stock one for Eachine Racer 250. That one I am unsure if it works anymore.
I bought a cheap FPV from Horizon Hobby. It has very short range. The only way to increase range is to buy a whole new VTX system.
But how do I know if the Eachine Racer 250 VTX is broken?
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Okay, so you have a camera that you know works. You could wire it up with the original vtx and see if it works. If it doesnt work then you need a new vtx assuming your new camera works and can run on 12 volts, you have the 12vts and a good ground to the camera, you have 12 volts and a good ground to the vtx and the signal wire from the camera to the vtx is good ( is making connection and the wire has continuity and can carry the amp load).

I lost several cameras and vtx on my Er250s so I wouldn't be surprised if you need one or both, but to be fair most cameras and vtxs dont last too long if you're crashing a lot. It just didnt seem like the Eachine stuff lasted too long even when I wasnt crashing. Ive been using $20 vtxs and cameras because I still crash a fair amount due to the aggressive way I fly and I keep pushing my limits with low level flips and rolls, through and around obstacles.

Edit to add- dont wire up that horizon camera unless its rated voltage range can handle 12 volts. If it cant handle that voltage it will smoke it.
 
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Altsickeness said:
Okay, so you have a camera that you know works. You could wire it up with the original vtx and see if it works. If it doesnt work then you need a new vtx assuming your new camera works and can run on 12 volts, you have the 12vts and a good ground to the camera, you have 12 volts and a good ground to the vtx and the signal wire from the camera to the vtx is good ( is making connection and the wire has continuity and can carry the amp load).

I lost several cameras and vtx on my Er250s so I wouldn't be surprised if you need one or both, but to be fair most cameras and vtxs dont last too long if you're crashing a lot. It just didnt seem like the Eachine stuff lasted too long even when I wasnt crashing. Ive been using $20 vtxs and cameras because I still crash a fair amount due to the aggressive way I fly and I keep pushing my limits with low level flips and rolls, through and around obstacles.

Edit to add- dont wire up that horizon camera unless its rated voltage range can handle 12 volts. If it cant handle that voltage it will smoke it.
Click to expand...
Upgrade to a better VTX, got it. Thank you for the explaination.
 
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