Storm Drone 6 Questions

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David R

Member
I have had this thing for over a year now and really enjoy it. I have only had one really bad crash and that was my idiotic fault, launched with a dead battery. $200 in parts and I was back up and running.

I have some questions though.

I bought Floureon 5500mah batteries of Amazon and they probably have less than 100 flights on them. They are swelling bad already. What brand of lipo battery should I be using? Reliable and long lasting?

The ESC's and Motors seem low quality. Are there some better plug n play ESC's available? What motors could I upgrade this thing to? I am looking to make it a bit more robust.

I have read that some fly it with a 100,000mah battery. I would love to see how this is setup? Pictures or video? Which battery brand are they using? I would really like to get 10+ minute flights out of this thing.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Cheers,

David
 
Hi David , It some times is how we look after the batteries that make them last , I use turnigy Blue , and nanotech most of my batteries are well on 2 years old now , Never run battery below 3,7v a cell , if your not flying store charge at 3.7v a cell , your size multirotor should be able to carry 2x 5200mah batteries one under and one on top this will give you 1,0400 mah or you may even run 2 x 8000mah but your need to check size on these your need to change the plug
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...C_Lipo_Pack_TRA2878_Slash_VXL_Slash_4x4_.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...apacity_3S_5200mAh_Multi_Rotor_Lipo_Pack.html
 
Hi they are good I run my quad and my trex 500s on them never had a problem , you can run as low as 3.2v a cell , but the more gentle you are on the battery the better it will last , so if you dont have to go lower than 3.7v this is be better for the battery than 3.2v, the ESCs and motors are good the twin batteries will give you a good flight time , if your going to change every thing then your better off building a new multi rotor with longest flight time in mind , the one you have is a really nice top notch multi rotor
 
Like Holtneil said, the batteries will last long depending how well they are treated. Fast charging them is not good for them either. Most that are made to be able to fast charge will last alot longer lower charge settings. It would be better to have extra batteries so you could let your batteries charge slowly.

Do you use that battery connector, or you plan to just put a new one on?

You may look at the two batteries, if you don't have the budget for the turnigy, I can say that the mutistars seem to do fine. Only time will tell for me, but if oyu look the mutistar is 331 grams @ 5200 mah and the Turnigy is 641grams @ 8400 mah. The weight may help to make up for the less flight time. Prices are big difference. But beware the Mutistar is a lot lower C rating. Turnigy is a long trusted brand too.
 
Thanks for the reply guys. Seems like the only forum I can get any feedback on.

I got everything I need to covert the batteries over to Deans connectors. I had been using the el-cheapo S4 charger that came with the SD6 and charging at 2amps. I recently bought this one to have more detail and control:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00466L0BW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have decided to do a Y6 configuration with it so it will do better in the wind. The SD6 came with the Naza M Lite flight controller, GPS, and a pre-programmed DEVO7 controller.

I have purchased a set of the F550 2122 920kv motors, and the OPTO 30A escs with the 10X5 props. The SD6 motors are getting hot and I thing it may have crashed because one fried.

When I set this thing up in Y6 configuration, do I need to go about reprogramming the Naza? What settings should be put in there?

Thanks again!
 
Hi mate what amps will you be pulling from the battery deans will melt if to high, I use XT60 ( which is 60 amp) you can get xt90( 90 amp) the others I use on my 500 class helis are the 4mm bullets(100+ amps) , I would look at xt60 really a much better connector
As for the naza you need to tell its a hexa-rotor Y( this has single leg at back) or hexa-rotor 1Y( this one has the single leg at the front)
Has the Naza got its BEC with it as your need this if the opto esc does not have a BEC also the naza pulls a lot of power so if you dont have its own BEC your need one that has the power
 
The NAZA M Lite came with the BEC.

I really don't know how many amps I will be pulling. I plan to have a Y6 setup with the 2122 920KV motors and the 30A ESCS with two 5000mAh 3S 20C Lipo's in parallel.

The only payload will be the batteries, a gopro, and the Tarot T2D gimbal.

I read that the Deans were a good plug and rated at 60A so that is why I went with them?

Cheers,
 
Hi they are but if they are the clone ones from china they may not , the other reason I went xt60 is most of the bigger batteries are xt60 or 4mm bullets , if you change battery plug remember to cut and solder one wire at a time , Dont short a lipo it will blow in your face
Glad the Naza has the BEC so you dont need to worry there
The max pull on the motor is about 20 amps x6 =120 amps for a few seconds you may have to look at 4mm bullets if the deans get hot
 
Okay, thanks. I have a lot of soldering and building experience. Certainly not going to try and solder both battery wires at the same time! I successfully built and OPEN ROV V2.5. Still have a lot to learn about drones....

I'm going to load up the NAZA software tonight for the first time and get familiar with it.

Cheers,
 
Also be sure not only to do one at a time but to heat shrink them. I know this sounds obvious but a guy on face book did it and he had to pitch his lipo and ruined a soldering tip. There are a many videos on youtube on setting the naza up too. Most people like the Xt60, older Veteran flyers will suggest deans. Xxt90 are really only needed for higher discharge applications, EC5 is another good one for high discharge too.
 
Thanks for the input. If I find it getting too hot I'll switch over to the Xt60s.

I use shrink tube on every solder job I do. Anything less is half-assing it lol.

Cheers,
 
Hey guys. Thanks for all the input!

I have my SD6 successfully converted to 6Y and flying like a dream!

Y6.jpg


One more question - these 5000mah lipo batteries. When you say don't fly then below 3.7v. Is that 3.7v under a load, or not? I had the alarm set for 3.7v and when I got it back inside the cells were still 3.8 not under a load.

Cheers,
 
Sweet, I am considering on buying more parts to make a 6Y, as it has minimal redundancy, and is fairly cheap. I think before try to get a LRS setup I will do this, to avoid going down with no control. :) A couple people on facebook got me interested in the 6Y design, no you have me really wanting to join you guys :).
 
Thanks.

After flying the flat 6, I will say that the flight time wasn't really impacted and I really liked how it flies. It doesn't seem quite as sensitive to little inputs, but still responds well. I like it a lot better this way. It's also a lot less confusing to fly, very easy to tell which way you are going.
 
Here it is with all of the upgrades. Pretty much an F550 Y6 now. All DJI motors, ESCs, and the Graupner 10X5 props. I am getting better flight times now.

Cheers,

Y62.jpg
 
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