That takes it back to the drone, probably the ESC. (possibly, but if it flies fine not likely) An RF Signal is generated any time electrical current flows through a coil. (wrong, only an AC or extremely quickly pulsed DC creates RF emissions when run through a coil, ordinary DC voltages does nothing of the sort) A condenser is a coil. (wrong, a condenser is a capacitor, which by the way is electrically speaking the exact opposite of a coil) It's called Induction (nope, induction is the electrical characteristic most prevalent in a coil, the generation of any type of transmission from a coil is known as emmission (FROM the coil a.k.a. an inductor)) and causes an RF Signal. If the condenser (the large capacitor attached to the battery leads and/or built into most modern ESCs) is damaged, it may lose its shielding capability (true, which is derived by it's absorbing voltage spikes, a.k.a. "noise") and allow the Induced Signal (misuse of the term) to escape (escape ? They're already and always "on the loose", but then get absorbed by capacitors) and cause interference to your camera. That's the theory. (sort of) The fix may be more complex. You'd have to determine the source of the Induction leak. (an entirely made up term) A multi-meter of some sophistication would be necessary. (true, it would need capacitance and inductance functions, and an O-scope would be even better)
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Both an inductor (coil of wire) and a capacitor (two plates separated by insulation) store energy and resist abrupt changes in a circuit by "smoothing things out". An inductor does so by magnetic field strength, while a capacitor does so by electrical differential between the plates. Power filtering is done cheaply for quads by just slapping a "low ESR capacitor" across the power leads of the circuit you're trying to filter or, more typically, across the battery leads. Any higher end power filters will use both capacitors AND inductors to optimize filtering (Google Palulu for the best filters). But enough about electronics, let's look at the less complicated mechanics of this problem.
Before I went changing my FC (NOT the fix anyway and no point in mounting a new FC into faulty circuitry ! ) I'd slap a cap on the bat if you haven't already. Also you really should isolate the problem to the specific circuitry to properly troubleshoot. Swapping cams was a good step to begin with. If the "new" cam worked fine, then great, but since both cams exhibit the symptoms it could be that the cam circuit is fine but your VTX circuit isn't .... OR .... you could just have nasty noise on your cam lines in which case ANY cam will show static, BUT even a perfectly working cam when feeding a noisy VTX (or good VTX with noise on it's lines or a bad antenna) will behave the same way.
What you need to discover:
Is the VTX antenna good ?
Is VTX good?
Is noise on VTX lines?
Is noise on cam lines? ... (you've already tried swapping cams, now swap the VTX antenna and then the VTX if needed).
If known good VTX AND CAM AND ANTENNA still show static you have noise on the lines and proceed to next
steps in troubleshooting below.
Disconnect the cam power lines and run the cam from another battery (NOT the same one powering the motors) and see what you get. If that fixed it you have noise on the cam power lines. If still bad then disconnect the VTX power lines and then run IT from an external bat. If that fixed it your VTX lines have noise.
If the external bat trick fixed it then filter your power lines and to which ever device and see what you get.
It goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway) NEVER RUN THE VTX WITHOUT THE ANTENNA ATTACHED.
It's actually possible that it's as simple as a broken VTX antenna. Problem is, when you lose a VTX ant that often also
takes the VTX with it. That's why it's important to use a known good VTX antenna when testing for noise using a known good VTX. Otherwise your known good VTX being used with the same (possibly bad) antenna could leave you with TWO bad VTXs.
