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Thank you, doing a reasoning similar to that of the choice of the battery c-rating, I consider as continuous discharge current the 100% throttle amps draw (though I'll keep it for short time and the burst rating would be enough), with a little margin for other components, according to this...

I’m a bit confusd regarding AWG and ampacity, because motors are 25A rated and arrived with 18AWG wire, but according to wikipedia 18AWG has 16A ampacity, am I reading wrong the table? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge considering the quadcopter maximum draw of 30A, which AWG...

how can I check specs using IR value? the iMAX B6 Mini measures it but which value should I get? If seller guarantees me the specs I'll try and if it is not I'll ask for refud

Thank you I'll ask in that forum I found cheap HG2 cells on AliExpress which suppliers told me they are not genuine but with same specs, can I trust them or where do you advice me to buy them?

if I understood I can balance charge using my iMAX B6 Mini just by soldering a JST-XH plug to the pack? can you explain me how the wiring should be in a 6S2P? and are there other Li-Ion standards with better quality/price to get 22.2V, at least 5000mAh capacity, at least 30A constant discharge...

but without a discharge BMS if in a 2P pack I draw 30A and cells are 20A rated, even if I should have 40A constant discharge current, if the 30A are not balanced between the 2 parallel packs they could be divided 25A + 5A or if they are wired the same the amperage is closer (16A+14A / 17A+13A /...

the BMS is intended only for charging, where can I find it? does it exist specifically for 6S2P? I'd probably use an elastic to keep the cells in position. looking at the Vruzend kits the V1.5 components are in stainless steel and support 3.5 A continuous per cell while the V2.0 components are...

and do you think the second solution could work?

I mean that you can discharge them to a lower voltage watch this

I think they are lighter, a 6S1P LiPo weights about the same of a 6S2P LiIon so you can have higher capacity and also they have a wider voltage range. My quad draws only 30A so they are enough. having only a soldering iron which of the solutions I posted do you think is better?

Thank you for the information, it seems a better solution than Vruzend one, but still expensive. What about the 2 solution I proposed? Would they work? Which is the better in your opinion? On one side solution 2 is easier, I only have to solder 2 3x case holders in series and the 2 6x resultants...

Hi, I'd like to build a 6S2P Li-Ion battery pack using 18650 cells but since I don't have a spot welder and solder nickel strips using a soldering iron would damage the cells I was thinking about 2 other solutions: 1 ) buy cells with presoldered nichel strips and solder them toghether using a...

I'm looking for a way to power the iMAX from my motorbike battery, such as a cable from ring terminals to 5X2mm jack but I can't find it... any ideas?

I calculated a total weight near 1500g, and according to motor test data I'll draw about 5A to hover, though I'll use 1345 props instead of 1340 in test data, but carbon fiber and t-style so lighter. considering that at 75% throttle I'll pull about twice the drone's weight drawing about 15A and...

there is voltage sensor so I should be able to get on it my transmitter. one thing I was thinking about is that as my wattage is mostly given by volts I would suffer more the loss of power given by the lowering of the voltage of the battery with the unloading. using a 6S should give me a voltage...

Ok thank you I'll buy that one

I found this https://www.racerstar.com/Racerstar-Shot30A-ESC-30A-30amp-3-6S-4-in-1-BLHeli_S-BB2-Dshot600-Integrated-Current-Voltage-Sensor-p-140.html at about the same price of REV35 + FCHUB-6S it has 5V 3A BEC and current and voltage sensor, is AIO board so smaller and lighter unlike the REV35...

in my short experience with a self built uncontrollable drone I learned to disarm motors just before crashing to obstacles, I didn't understand if the Racerstar's 35 amps are in total or for each motor like other 4in1 ESCs I've seen, have a bit of margin it would be safer. anyway the Matek PDB I...

It will be a big frame so no problem. for sure changing individual ESCs instead of a 4in1 is easier/cheaper, but I think that having it inside the frame and covered rather than wobbling tight to the arms externally I'd have less chance of damaging it

and what's the problem? I prefer a single board ESC for a "cleaner" setup, no flying wires, probably lighter too.