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Yah I'll see if I have one on something here too since have the same TX and slew of random receivers I've gotten it to work with. I also made my own custom esk8 tx and rx using Arduino+Nrf (nordic rf) boards, in that case there is a "pipe" used to filter out data and can pick the particular...

Hmm bind procedure sounds weird to me in the manual for that receiver: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.frsky-rc.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/Manual/Manual-XM%252B.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwixlP3L0bXvAhUVbs0KHdugCQYQFjAAegQIBRAC&usg=AOvVaw0Zy9cZW02JfF_gfKTvmu4k Seems to...

Take some images of issues you're seeing and maybe someone else here has seen the same or similar but hard to guess or google with misspellings etc. (I know this forum can be unforgiving on edits and autocorrect can go bad but need to know exactly what the error is and parts involved to dig...

No idea really but transmitters do tend to drain batteries somewhat fast in my experience so would try battery swap before anything else. Beyond that would see if jumper T16 or radiomaster T18 with 4 in 1 module could bind to the quad and get one of those as a replacement (have bound to random...

Yah I mean looks pretty good to me but could have cooked something critical still like mcu or a connection to a pin on it from the mosfets, or something or could have just been doa or corrupted firmware from the factory (maybe slipped through whatever qc they're doing). I googled the error you...

Would try disconnect fc to esc signal wire and see if get beeps with just esc to motors if so double check the pin positions in the connector/wire between fc and esc, even though same port for the plug it may be different pin layout, different mfgs choose different order no real standard I'm...

If getting 0 beeps there are only two possibilities, the ESC isn't getting power or the ESC isn't properly connected to the motor (or I supposed a 3rd the motor is dead). Even without an FC or anything sending it signals the ESC will do a couple of startup beeps to the motor (assuming firmware...

Not sure as I don't have that receiver or FC but looks like comments saying can use rx6 pad in middle of board for it? Perhaps someone with more definitive answer or knows where in manual it's stated will chime in too.

Nice cruise, also agree seems a bit smoother, wonder how much is the firmware vs just getting better as a pilot too though always pretty hard to separate skill change from equipment changes. Anywho makes me want to get out for sure, good stuff.

Also friend just shared this apparently it's a thing now:

Interesting for sure I like that it is basically just a dumb display and doesn't have too much whizz bang built into it, wish TV manufacturers would give us that option too. I've had some hands on with a MS hololense that is a similar "Augmented Reality" head mounted display (some people at...

Yah that's normal under default config, if you don't want props to move at all until you also throttle up then set the "motor stop" option to true in the configuration tab of betaflight but so long as motors spinning the right way and props on the right motors can give it a little ground test...

Built into what exactly? Generally speaking receiver is just going to be stuck onto the frame somewhere and have signal and power lines going back to the flight controller board or FC for short. Whether you buy it with one already hooked up or you put it on the frame yourself and solder those...

There's not really anything you can do because don't have the original source. You could try "bit banging" where you're flipping bits in the firmware randomly (assuming can access said firmware) but you don't know what the expected outcome is really so that's a pretty hopeless effort if can't...

Yah GPS only reason it's useful in betaflight is for RTH option too, with iNav can do some more advanced things with the GPS and compass, but don't really know many people who use that with quadcopters (sort of sucks the joy out of flying it yourself but could be useful for industrial things or...

Yah have heard good things about Hubsan things in general but if the thing falls out of the "support window" where they no longer find it worth maintaining then you are a bit SOL (this is a big reason I'm a fan of the DIY/open source based things even if it costs a little more... or to be honest...

Generally a component like esc with higher voltage rating just had caps and mosfets with higher voltage rating too but the amp rating is separate spec on all the components on the esc and the esc spec is based on weakest link in terms of max voltage and current allowed before something frys in...

Yah if there is a straight short then the mosfets on the esc will likely fry regardless but if just caused by a stall/current spike then escs with better mosfets can handle it better (also caps and other passive components arranged properly can help dissipate spikes in current or voltage)

Yah replacement is the way to go for esc that's damaged, repair on esc requires working the whole pcb with hot air rework station and finding the mosfet(s) or other component that failed. I still somewhat prefer individual escs because easier to replace one if only one burns out but 4in1 board...

Think ohm meter/multimeter in resistance measuring mode is probably best bet to check for connection and low resistance (if low enough and multimeter isn't precise enough will just read as 0 if low ohms and connected, or usually -- if no connection). If bad solder connection won't see connection...