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Seems that the bottoms need it more than the tops. :) Welcome

I'm assuming the 6.9V is triggering the low battery voltage warning. Use a meter and check the bat voltage right after you charge it, it should be around ~8.4V.

So you have never flown anything?

https://www.banggood.com/Radiolink-Mini-PIX-F4-Flight-Controller-MPU6500-w-TS100-M8N-GPS-UBX-M8030-For-RC-Drone-FPV-Racing-p-1240423.html?rmmds=myaccout-bottom-alsolike__3&stayold=1&cur_warehouse=CN

https://www.google.com/search?q=guides+to+build+a+quadcopter&oq=guides+to+build+a+quadcopter&aqs=chrome..69i57.14922j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

So they have JST plugs like these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/GoolRC-3-7V-1200mAh-25C-JST-Plug-LiPo-Battery-for-WKLIPO-5-10-5G4Q3-SYMA-A0L9/283015507624?hash=item41e509eea8:g:fCkAAOSwjOVbKLO~...

You don't need 40A EScs.

You weights are way off.

Eachine's latest goggles can switch between 4:3 and 16:9 to match the camera. They also have a wide IPD range of 56-72mm.

Well I think we have also seen a major shift in the hobby as manufacturers are now flooding the market with attractively priced BNFs.

Painless360 has to be one of the best out there when it comes to building, with well thought out and explained videos covering all aspects and quirks. Then came the rather annoying, always yelling UAV Futures who mainly covers pre-builts. You used to be able to see how much they had raised...

As long as you have the converter hooked up to the battery it is using some juice. Look on the PCB for the voltage, here's a Hubsan TX (yours might be the same.) I'd opt for 2S LiPo with no converter.

I meant the battery when it comes off the charger. :)

Get or borrow a cheap multimeter, nothing fancy is needed and check the voltage when it comes off the charger, should be ~4.2V