UAV Futures inspired $99 build

@mozquito1 when you say "Solder the esc power leads, test them." how do you test them?
I also have a 4 in 1 esc if this changes anything?

I have this TX on my list, but I am going to get it to fly first :) (recommendations welcome)

https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-VT...1081&p=CG24181822629201506N&cur_warehouse=USA

So rather than tin the two wires you strip of more of the outer, then twist them together and apply solder at that point?

I have this flight controller

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/F3-Fligh...hash=item25ebfd06e0:m:mkXVssO_zEEVJNG7vkN7fLQ

which comes with Cleanflight.

Is Cleanflight another variation of Betaflight?
 
Each wire you solder can be checked with the multimeter to see if it has a proper conductive joint. & not a dry one.
The ground is open right through the system. So if you go black to black & it doesn't make a sound, somthing is up.
From my knowledge, maybe the gyro doc can comment. But red is the same, but can have switches where the circuit ends until powered on or switched on.
But it's mainly the esc & pigtail.
If you go red to black & it beeps then you're about to burn money & time.
You have shorted somthing. If you cut wires @ your desk or whatever, always blow the quad off before a lipo plug in.
 
roger jones said:
I have this TX on my list, but I am going to get it to fly first :) (recommendations welcome)
Click to expand...

I've seen that VTX in a lot of builds and have heard it's good for the money. Others may have better information.

roger jones said:
So rather than tin the two wires you strip of more of the outer, then twist them together and apply solder at that point?
Click to expand...

Why wouldn't you tin? It makes soldering life SO much easier. If you are only twisting it together to make it easy to hold together, you may want to look at using a solder buddy or helping hands.
Check out Joshua Bardwell's tool list for a few different styles and price points: https://www.fpvknowitall.com/ultimate-fpv-shopping-list-tools/

roger jones said:
I have this flight controller
Is Cleanflight another variation of Betaflight?
Click to expand...

BetaFlight was born out of CleanFlight. They are similar, but different. In some cases (maybe all - I don't know), you can put BetaFlight on a CleanFlight board.
Here's a tutorial I found on how to do this (haven't done it obviously and there may be better tutorials - just the first one I found).
Obviously, wait until someone smarter than me chimes in to confirm or correct me.

https://www.aldeid.com/wiki/From-Cleanflight-to-Betaflight
 
I used to use cleanflight but I took the betaflight standalone off github to try.
& cleanflight took a while & for all I know still has not released a standalone.
You can swap the programming on it to BF pretty easy. I prefer BF now anyway.
Does CF have osd? Anyone. The fcb you got in that 2nd link ain't to hot. It's an old MPU6050 which we did warn you about but it's cheap. I know the score. But a decent knock will kill the gyro.
It's just an old naze32 that's been rechipped basically with the arm F3 but left the old gyro. Maybe alright for a bit of angle mode flying which I only recommend for a maiden or test.
You need to start on acro ASAP even LOS.
But definitely suspect for acro,
Not recommended o_O
That vtx is ok. I get about 150-200 in a field on my IRC Duo. I do only have a little whip on it. I have a clover on a u.fl for the 130 but it's OK for now.
 
and finally off to a shaky start. Plumbing yesterday seemed easier. :)
After all the prep, I started soldering at the wrong end of the drone!
Hence the added notes so I can double check. I think I got lucky :) Worst case it could be soldering practice.
Quite why it feels like rocket science! (Electrickery :confused: :))

IMG_1426.JPG IMG_1427.JPG IMG_1428.JPG IMG_1430.JPG IMG_1431.JPG
 
? @RENOV8R

Each joint has an individual heat shrink added and the yellow heat shrink over the top to tidy it up.
upload_2018-3-31_13-46-46.png
Starting to realise why most builders use masking tape to hold the cables down.
 
Just a fan as those ground pads take some heating up coz the ground is open throughout the whole system. I just put it in front to cool down as doing a few grounds @ once can kill the board.
 
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