Total newbie

I would have never guessed that they would be twice as much, but I think it is worth the investment. 2216 could be used on a 450 up to a 700, and run many different types of props on 3-4s batteries so they will give you more room to try different setups.

Good advise from HDtallrider. "When you decide which works best for you then get CF versions of those." <--- Do this ;)

This frame is a tbs discovery clone so check out what others are using too to help you with your decision. It seems like most were either 800kv, 900kv, 1000kv, and 1100kv. I picked the 900kv to have the best balance of speed and flight duration.
 
ringolong said:
You got me looking and I just found these lol. I think I may new frame now lol.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REPTILE-MWC...opter-Frame-/111766262585?hash=item1a05c9d339
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Actually a pretty good copy of the Discovery and looks cool as well. For an experienced pilot like you it will be fine. For a newbie like Dangerousdave it might be too difficult to set up. If you look close it does not have a "square" wheelbase. This will take some programming skills to the FCB and ESC settings to be easy to fly for a novice. Your current, and his first choice, would probably be a better match. Whatever frame you get, try to keep the distance between the motors the same. Side to side and front to back. When it's time to upgrade check these arms out:

http://www.aimdroix.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=58

Longer, lighter and more rigid than stock. It's like getting performance tires for your car. It all just locks in and they look amazing.
 
Look at the shape of the rear of the frame on this reptile 500 and you will see how the rear arm mounting is extended out farther than the front. This squares the wheelbase and makes it more stable and easier to fly. It compensates for the rear arm rake.

 
ringolong said:
Dangerousdave - Are you getting the aimdroix arms?

I actually have a set of the extended aimdroix. I just have not installed them yet, but once I get the new frame I will.
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Baby steps, Dd. Baby steps. Break a few plastic arms first. While you're learning you WILL crash. A lot. In a crash with the Aimdroix arms the force will transfer right to the frame and break it instead of the arms. Arms are much easier and cheaper to replace.
 
ringolong said:
Dangerousdave - Are you getting the aimdroix arms?

I actually have a set of the extended aimdroix. I just have not installed them yet, but once I get the new frame I will.
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Yea as hd said i can get 2 full set of spare plastics for the price of 1 of those you shown... ill prob get alloy or cf arms when ive had a play and learnt to fly it ☺

Are the cf props better? Theres some on hobbykings for only £4 a pair.. if they balance up thats cheap.
 
Dangerousdave said:
Yea as hd said i can get 2 full set of spare plastics for the price of 1 of those you shown... ill prob get alloy or cf arms when ive had a play and learnt to fly it ☺

Are the cf props better? Theres some on hobbykings for only £4 a pair.. if they balance up thats cheap.
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CF props are more rigid than plastic so performance is better. It won't make much difference to you in the beginning. You can get 3 or 4 pair of decent plastic props for that amount of money. Just stay away from the very bottom of the barrel. Whatever props you decide on always balance them before you fly. here's a how to:
 
3 or 4 sets of decent props for £4... bloody hell i thought those cf ones were cheap

Balancing them looks straight forward enough too, thanks for the link .

What size props should i be looking for? the motors i found now are 2216 900kv sunny skys.

Cheers guys
 
Dangerousdave said:
3 or 4 sets of decent props for £4... bloody hell i thought those cf ones were cheap

Balancing them looks straight forward enough too, thanks for the link .

What size props should i be looking for? the motors i found now are 2216 900kv sunny skys.

Cheers guys
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"Decent" from china means they are probably "real" plastic. For the motors you got(good choice) I would try 1047 and 1145 for general use and to learn on. The 1047 will have quicker response and the 1145 will be a bit slower and steadier with more lift. If it still seams too "twitchy" for you try 1238 props. A lot of lift and smooth, gentle response. Generally speaking; smaller, high pitch props are quick and responsive but have less thrust. Large , lower pitch props produce a lot of thrust but are slower responding. You can mess around with the pitch and see what you prefer. Watch motor and ESC temps. Don't over prop. Your build should come in AUW including FPV at around 1.6g. 3 s batteries should be more than adequate and will give you longer flight times. Another prop to consider, after you quit digging holes with your quad:p, are wood props. A couple of us on the forum have been experimenting with them because they come in way more sizes and pitches than plastic or CF. More options to get it just right. They are as rigid as CF but very brittle. Something else to play with.......
 
You have a fairly lightweight quad. A 3s battery will easily lift your quad even when loaded. And it weighs less and costs less than the 4s. I suggested some relatively benign props for you to learn on. A 3s battery with larger props will give you longer flight times than the same capacity 4s. After you master flying you can change to 4s. Get some 9068 or 1055 props and tear holes in the sky if that is what you want. You will have exciting but shorter flights. This is all just a suggestion. If you have your heart set on the bigger batteries then that is what you should get. This is your quad after all. It certainly won't cause any harm. I just thought that you might feel better learning on a quad version of a family sedan and then driving a sport coupe later. The main thing is to have fun!!;)
 
Here is a chart that might explain this better. I picked this brand motor because their data is excellent:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...ting_-_KDE2315XF-965.pdf?13250022135093590036
3 items to pay attention to as you look at the chart. Look at amp draw for 50%(hover) throttle, 75%(most flying) and 100% throttle. Look at the difference from prop to prop and from 3s to 4s. Then look for the same thing in the grams of thrust column and in the lbs/ hp column under efficiency. Hopefully this will help you to understand how using the correct battery for your desired type of flying is important. Could be the difference between lots of fun and frustration. I vote for fun.......
 
I'm not made of cash but for the few quid they cost I'll buy both batterys and then I'll have a spare to swap out

Towards the top end the 4s uses more bat power but is almost double the thrust... Is there a way for me to just stick a battery on each leg and once one discharges it swaps automatically hahaha
 
Dangerousdave said:
I'm not made of cash but for the few quid they cost I'll buy both batterys and then I'll have a spare to swap out

Towards the top end the 4s uses more bat power but is almost double the thrust... Is there a way for me to just stick a battery on each leg and once one discharges it swaps automatically hahaha
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Yeah. The 4s makes for good hot-rodding. Just not for as long. If you want longer flight times use the 3s. Chek out the Multistar batteries from Hobby King. Lightweight and large capacity at good prices. You should get 2 batteries at least regardless of size. I have never heard of a automatic swap before. Sounds like a project for you....... The only issue is the extra weight.
 
I bet it could be done with an arduino somehow......yea I know I'd need a spare, I'll get at least one of each to start with need to order it all so I can start the build, gotta check what radio gear I have in the garage for my marder, it maybe a plane one to get me started till I buy a bad boy
 
Dangerousdave said:
I bet it could be done with an arduino somehow......yea I know I'd need a spare, I'll get at least one of each to start with need to order it all so I can start the build, gotta check what radio gear I have in the garage for my marder, it maybe a plane one to get me started till I buy a bad boy
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Something to consider when swapping from 3s to 4s and back is don't forget to adjust your FCB or Tx or both to get your throttle positions correct. A 50% setting for hover on a 3s may be a 100% setting with a 4s battery. That could be a very exciting flight.....Haha!!
 
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