Solder Camera and VTx on PDB or on FC?

AndreasS

AndreasS

Member
Hi all!

I'm new here on the forum so this is my first post. I'm building my first FPV drone at the moment. Even thou I have watched many build videos, I still have a lot of beginner questions I don't dare to ask elsewhere. I hope this newbie forum section can help me. :)

Ok... I have 3 questions:

1. I have a Diatone v8.3 PDB and an Omnibus F3 Flight Controller. (I've heard I bought the wrong FC and should have bought the F4, but this is what I'm stuck with).

I have seen videos where people solder all the camera and VTx cables directly to the PDB... (Cam - GND - 12/5 V). I'm thinking that I should solder the Yellow cable to the FC instead? Is that correct? Cam on 'Video in' and VTx on 'Video Out'?

2. What do I do with the Audio cables? Connect them directly between the camera and VTx?

3. Do I need the black ground cable next to the signal cable on the ESC's? I have Racerstar RS30A V2 30A ESC's.

I have attached a few pictures so you can see how it looks now....

korttekst.jpg korttekst2.jpg

THANKS for any answers. :)
 
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For 1 yes you are correct if you want to use the OSD from the FC to give you heads up display on voltage and whatever else you like to have on there then you'll want the yellow video line to go into the FC video in and the video out to the VTX.

For 2. I don't use 'smart audio' or audio at all for that matter but forum thread here seems to indicate you can just hook the audio wires directly from a camera with mic into the VTX to get audio: https://droneracingpilots.com/threads/running-audio-from-runcam-swift-2-to-vtx-and-headphones.1440/

Personally I just tuck them away but might be nice to have audio for weird motor noises or hearing more quickly if something has come loose.

For 3. yes connect the gnd and signal wire there should be some of those three pin headers that are for gnd and signal to the ESCs. The thing you'd usually want to leave out is the 5V from the ESCs if you were using ones that have 5V out but these appear to not supply any 5V, no big deal since you can get it off the PDB for anything that needs it.
 
Nothing wrong with that Omnibus F3, just a little slower processing speed than an F4. In fact all the UART’s on an F3 processor have native inversion, which means you can run SBUS and Smart Port directly without doing any un-inversion hacks. So it's actually a more user-friendly flight controller for someone just starting in this hobby!
 
Thanks! Awesome answers. It really helps my progress. :) I think I'll just connect the audio cables just in case. Don't know yet if I will use them either.
 
Not tested the audio. The camera has a microphone so it might be useful to hook up the audio cables in the end...

I have no soldered the motors and ESC, the power to camera and VTX on the PDB. I have checked the connections with a multimeter and got a green light on the smokestopper when I tried powering it on... So far so good... My soldering skills are improving but according to a friend of mine I need to practice a lot more to get it perfect. ;)

image1.jpeg
 
How young do you think you are mister.
You know quite well what one is.
Chrome agnon, I said young man, it's fun to be at the YMCA. In your flares o_O
 
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AndreasS said:
No.. Next is placing the FC and solder the rest of the cables, mount camera, vtx, tx, led, buzzer etc... Since this is the first time I build a drone the process is a bit slow.
Click to expand...

I see soldering can be tough the E-Components are too small try to avoid larger bubbles of the soldering lead to avoid it from causing a short circuit.
 
So this is It :) This is the proper form and guide of the lead when soldered in the PCB/Circuit. Hope it will help;)
tools_Header_Joints.jpg
 
Nice image of different joints. I'm having difficulties to understand the difference between some of them thou. ;) Some of them looks the same... Looking at the soldered joints on my drone they looks ok at least before I try to solder on cables.
 
AndreasS said:
Nice image of different joints. I'm having difficulties to understand the difference between some of them thou. ;) Some of them looks the same... Looking at the soldered joints on my drone they looks ok at least before I try to solder on cables.
Click to expand...

Hmmm yes the one identified "OK" means a good soldering Just follow the "OK" form of soldering to avoid short circuit
 
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