Sir Torc's Quest for the Holy Quad

In the attempt to endure the toxic environment of work, I combed through videos on the QX7 and found this one that I thought was a good one to implement, learning from others pain. I know I have done the same thing before both on the simulator and with the CX-30. Tho they are small, the props sting.


I have been trying to figure out if it's possible to make it that the arming sound won't go off until the arming happens but doesn't if only the arm switch is toggled. My initial thought was to add a setting to the model's mixers that listed the logic switch (like the setting on the video) as the trigger, but it doesn't seem that I can add that as an option.
 
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I've been thinking about making my arming switch a little safer just to start a good habit. Right now, I simply flip one switch and go. I saw this a while back and am only coming back to thinking about it again. It's not exactly what you were thinking (at least I don't think), but the mixing stuff may give you some ideas. I'll be copying JB's method in the video for now though

 
Quick post before bed.

I found a program, TrinusVR, that sends the destop of your computer to your phone, split screened for a simple VR headset.

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This gave me the ability to fly FreeRider in true fpv style,which is not available on the PC version. Boy, what a difference!
 
The headset was a $2 phone powered headset, nothing more than a set of lenses and a shell to hold them and the phone.

The app did the split screen on its own.

That's a pretty cool idea. Did you already have a headset for that or using something like google cardboard?
 
Yesterday I realized what it means to outgrow an aspect of a hobby.

I took advantage of the warm weather and fired up my CX-30 to try to fly around the yard and tried to pull off some banks and turns and all I managed to do was turning and slightly going in another direction. Talk about frustrating!
 
Yesterday I realized what it means to outgrow an aspect of a hobby.

I took advantage of the warm weather and fired up my CX-30 to try to fly around the yard and tried to pull off some banks and turns and all I managed to do was turning and slightly going in another direction. Talk about frustrating!

Yeah, it definitely highlights the difference between flying a more advanced quad in the sim and flying a toy quad.
 
Bit of a repost but wanted to update this.

Where There Is A Will….






As I mentioned in my previous post, I had a vision issue with the Eachine VR-oo7 goggles where it was too close to be able to focus, and all I had to do was find a way to move them away from my face far enough to allow my eyes to focus.

ENTER THE $1 VR GOGGLES
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I picked these up on a whim when I was at Staples because they were $1 and I figured I could use them with my phone version of Freecycle and maybe make an FPV rig when I got a compatible quad. They are not much more than a fancy plastic box mount for a phone. I wiped the dust off and deconstructed them for the section with the padding and strap.





I was amazed that it lined up rather well, so I put the goggles on with the addition (the headband just fits), plugged in the goggles and Bat and, wouldn’t you know it, focus issue was resolved! Add to that, the padding is more comfortable, durable and it did little to the weight and comfort while on my head. I dug out the electrical tape and some of the extra foam blocks from when I fitted my Taranis into a case and made the addition a permanent part of the goggles with only a small amount of light leakage at the nose.







And then I customized it to fit me better

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I also made the mods to my TX case to fit the QX105.

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After a number of successful and rewarding flights with the Mantis, my attention is pointed to the replacement flight controller that is inbound from BangGood and the second 105 frame that came in.

The idea is to test the controller on the 8.5x20mm motors currently being used since the 10mm motors are too much for the fets. The issue is the connectors do not fit the flight controller and I want to be sure the setup works before investing in coreless motors I found with the 1.0mm connectors. So, with some dread, I cut the plugs off of the 10mm motors and spliced them on the spare 8.5 motors, which is the smallest work I have tried with a crap iron. The verdict?


Now, just need the board so I can get the rest done and not stay grounded for long.
 
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