Pulsing 250, like little blips of throttle

pete348

New Member
Hi guys
I have a 250 I built and everything and in betaflight it looks good, it arms fine but when I hover the quad rises for a second, it’s like I blip the throttle but I don’t touch the throttle, the quad just rises and falls back to the same position
my other 250 was Bullet proof so any help would be appreciated
i Have an omnibus f4/pdp
all pins are correct, Im feeling it maybe something in beta flight?
Thanks
 
if all else fails you can always reflash and start over... But as for the throttle blip.. sounds like the fc trying compensate. Look for loose parts making vibrations and as well make sure you calibrate you accelerometer on a level surface.
 
if all else fails you can always reflash and start over... But as for the throttle blip.. sounds like the fc trying compensate. Look for loose parts making vibrations and as well make sure you calibrate you accelerometer on a level surface.
ok, It has just been sat on the side, I had a look at it last night and the micro usb thing from the board just came off in my hand :(

Can that be soldered back on or shall i get a new board?
thank you
Pete
 
Its SMT. Gonna be difficult. especially if you don't have a hot air gun. If you do not have hot air... it may be easier to solder some leads from the board to the usb. It will still be hard, but easier than trying to solder a surface mount part with just an iron. You may also want to consider that the solder pads may no longer be on the board...
 
Its SMT. Gonna be difficult. especially if you don't have a hot air gun. If you do not have hot air... it may be easier to solder some leads from the board to the usb. It will still be hard, but easier than trying to solder a surface mount part with just an iron. You may also want to consider that the solder pads may no longer be on the board...
I have bith hot air and solder
I just started researching it,
do u think the hot air will solder it back together or just do a new one with leads from the main board?
 
If you don't have experience with reflow it will be difficult on a small board like this with a lot of components, it can be done but you'd want to cover the parts you don't want blasted with heat with kapton tape and ideally I think would want to clean up the pads make sure they look good and add some solder paste and flux to redo it "properly". You might get away with just jamming it on there and hitting it with hot air but it's going to be a dice roll if not doing it under some serious magnification whether or not things actually all flow and reconnect and that you don't end up with any shorts, if you have good eyes and tweezers can pull it off but not simple. This is one where depends on if you are just trying for fun and to salvage, and valuing your time at 0 vs if it's actually worth it, if the FC is $40 and you get $20 per hour or more then more than 2hrs of work = buy a new thing instead. There's kind of no harm in trying but just saying it's some time/effort that might not be fruitful (but it may :) )
 
you know... There is another way.. You could get a bluetooth module and wire it on a uart.. however you need access via usb to set it up.. So you could solder some wires to connect the usb.. then you could set BT up... there are other options as well utilizing the method..

But as for my self.. I'd probably just get another FC.. I have had issues with FC's before and the manufactures usually replace them if they are new.
 
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