newbs first build help please

[johnathan]

I thought the bec was a low battery indicator? whats a low battery indicator called? Would I solder it to the pdb? Whats a ubec? Sorry for all the questioms everyone.. gawd I wish I haf someone in person to talk to. Thank you all again!! My heads been hurting from the fliw if information frim here and youtube man its a lit to take in... lots of typeos there

 

[tylorwashere]

Bec stands for battery eliminator circuit, you can program your esc's to have a low voltage cut, if you bought the programming tool for the esc's that yout have. A ubec is just a different kind of bec, it's supposed to be a little more efficient. The bec is built into your esc, it isn't a separate thing

 

[tylorwashere]

Here's a few pictures that might help, some of the picture quality is crap due to resizing.
The first picture is of an esc. You'll notice there are three wires on one side, which are the wires that connext to your motor. The other side has a red, which is hot, a black, which is ground, and a grouping of three smaller wires. One of these smaller wires, in the case of mine the yellow one, is the signal wire. The other two are hot and ground from the bec, putting out 5v.

The next picture is of a reciever. The top plug, or the 1st spot, has 3 wires going into it. This is your throttle connection. One of these wires is signal, and the other two are hot and ground, pulling 5v from the FC to power itself. The rest of the connections for the rest of the channels will only have one wire, for signal.

The next picture is of the signal, hot and ground wires from all four esc's plugged into to fc. If you were to pull the power wires from 3, 3 of them would only have the signal wire connected, while one would have all 3 wires still connected.

The last picture is of a simple Male to male deans to xt 60 connector, for batteries that have a deans connector so I can plug them into my quad, which has a female xt 60 connector

 

[RENOV8R]

Yes, run all 3 wires from motor #1 to your CC3D. For the remaining 3, chop off the black and red power wires close to the ESC. Fold them over and and seal them with shrink tube and just run the yellow signal wires to the CC#D. I took the 3 and put them in a servo plug and plugged it into 2, 3 and 4 on the board. Nice and neat. You'll be surprised how much wire is removed, it adds up to some weight savings.

 

[johnathan]

Bec stands for battery eliminator circuit, you can program your esc's to have a low voltage cut, if you bought the programming tool for the esc's that yout have. A ubec is just a different kind of bec, it's supposed to be a little more efficient. The bec is built into your esc, it isn't a separate thing

I have to buy a program to program the esc? in with the erc there are instructions in hiw to program, either via transmitter or program card. I skimmed throu it.. seemed gibberish. Maybe next time.I read it, ittl make more sense.

 

[johnathan]

Yes, run all 3 wires from motor #1 to your CC3D. For the remaining 3, chop off the black and red power wires close to the ESC. Fold them over and and seal them with shrink tube and just run the yellow signal wires to the CC#D. I took the 3 and put them in a servo plug and plugged it into 2, 3 and 4 on the board. Nice and neat. You'll be surprised how much wire is removed, it adds up to some weight savings.

would cutting the wires prevent me from programing the erc?

 

[johnathan]

Would this work? or do tou think it would conduct electricity? Its stick on anolium. How ever you spell it..

 

[johnathan]

Im soldering as we speak xD

 

[tylorwashere]

Im soldering as we speak xD

Good luck, you got Flux right?

 

[johnathan]

No, resin core solder, won't that suffice? Is this right?

 

[johnathan]

Rosin* core. What ever that is..

 

[tylorwashere]

No, resin core solder, won't that suffice? Is this right?

Looks right, give them a little tug to make sure you don't have a cold solder. Flux makes it much much easier, a Flux coated wire will suck up solder like a candle wick

 

[johnathan]

It is complete xD mostly.. I still need heat shrink

 

[johnathan]

Once my battery charges a little illt ake a picture

 

[johnathan]

I still need heat shrink for the bulletheads thou.

 

[johnathan]

With respect to my erc and motor specs. Would this battwry work? Or would it burn out my motors? The motors say can use up to 3s but my erc says they can take up to 4s. Help please?

 

[andy bards]

Would paralleling two nano 1.3 batteries work better then one bigger battery? I mean weigh wise and with C in mind.

yes it would be better (capable of supplying more amps) .. and safer if there was a battery failure,, still have one left..

JUST A LITTLE THING TO REMEMBER don't forget a battery lipo alarm -- set your low voltage alarm, and when you battery runs low you get an audible sound telling you to land soon.. its a small device that plus into your balancing connector on battery, gives you individual cell voltages as well..

 

[andy bards]

With respect to my erc and motor specs. Would this battwry work? Or would it burn out my motors? The motors say can use up to 3s but my erc says they can take up to 4s. Help please?

the only problem between the 3s and 4s battery is going to be heat,, the motor will be able to handle both batteries no problem, but the 4s option may generate more heat on the motor.

the battery will not burn out the motors,, the esc will probably go first with the motor demanding more amps than the esc can handle when flying fast full throttle/accelerating for long periods.

esc have a max output of amps they can continuously maintain with a burst limit of so many seconds (overdrive) they can be pushed to..

if like myself and new to the quadcopter,, you will be flying slowly, and wont have any issues with amps and so on,,

good luck Andy

 

[RENOV8R]

Why the obsession with 4S? I just got my 250 finished and did first flight. Just a 3S 35C 1500 mah and all I can say is O........M........G. I'm out of props, done for the night. It scared me. 4S is NOT required