newbs first build help please

J

johnathan

Well-Known Member
I know nothing of amps and oms and.. whatever else. but this is going to be my hobby. I purchased this kit. And I need any general advice anyone can thing of, also, the esc says I can use battery 4s but the motor spec says up to 3s. Can I use a 4$ since it goes throu the esc first? Here are my specs of the kit I purchased.

ZMR250 Features:
100% Brand New and High Quality.
With compact portable design.
Arm plate thickness: 3mm
Main material: 3k Weave Carbon Fiber + fiberglass
Wheelbase: 250mm
Weight: 145g (not include the weight of metal fasten parts)
With rubber damper to decrease vibration during flight.
Aluminum alloy spacer, light weight, reliable.
Unassembled.
CC3D Features:
Powerful STM32 32-bit microcontroller running at 90MIPs with 128KB Flash and 20KB RAM.
3-axis high-performance MEMs gyros and 3-axis high-performance MEMs accelerometer.
Tiny 36mmx36mm 4 layer PCB for superior electrical noise reduction and flight performance.
Software support for Windows, Mac and Linux.
Direct high speed USB support with no drivers required, a truly plug and play device.
Spektrum satellite receiver support.
Futaba S-BUS hardware support.
Innovative Flexi-port technology for superior port flexibility.
4Mbits on-board EEPROM for configuration storage.
EMAX MT2204-2300KV Features:
Every single motor balancing test done
The propeller and motor mount cover using integrated molding process to ensure concentricity mounted paddle
Japan NMB bearings , low noise, long life
The choice of Kawasaki, Japan 0.2mm spindle , more efficient, less heat
The selection of high temperature NdFeB magnets
The motor of the pros and cons thread configuration, eliminating the multi-axis shot after installing anti- paddle security risks
Multi-axis multi- rotor brushless motor:
Low center of gravity design
Light weight Design
Long-endurance design
Spec:
KV: 2300
Max Trust: 440g
No. of cell: 2-3S
Framework: 12N14P
Propeller: 5" ~ 6"
Length: 32.2mm
Shaft: 3mm
Diameter: 27.9mm
Weight: 25g
EMAX Blheli 12A ESC Features
Features:
Use authentic electronic components to ensure high quality and enhance the current endurance ability of the ESC.
Based on BLHeli firmware,optimized for high performance with great linearity and much quicker throttle response.
Special designed for multirotors, and compatible with great linearity and much quicker throttle response.
Multiple protection featured including Low-voltage vut-off protection/ over-heat protection/ throttle signal loss protection.
Throttle tange can be configured and is full compatible with all receivers, providing smooth with all receivers,providing smooth,linear and precise throttle reponse.
All parameters can be programmed via using a program card or a transmitter,including default settings.
product specification:
Item:EMAX Blheli 12A
Continuous Current:12A
Burst current(10S):15A
Li-xx battery(cell):2-4
Dimension L*W*H(mm):40x20x8
Weight(g) wires Included:11
BEC Mode: Linear
BEC Output:1A/5A
Programmable:yes

ZMR250 4 Axis Frame x1
CC3D Flight Controller x1
EMAX MT2204 2300KV Brushless Motor x4
EMAX Blheli 12A ESC x4
5030 Carbon Fiber Propeller x4(2pcs CW + 2 PCS CCW)
Connection board x1
 
tylorwashere

tylorwashere

Well-Known Member
I had to let my eyes stop watering there for a second. For general advice: watch lots, and lots, and lots of youtube videos. I mean days worth. Flite test, rc model reviews and painless 360 are all great channels. As for the battery question, I would stick to 3s, Which means 3 cells in series. A 4s, or 4 cell battery would be way too much for someone who has never flown before.

Is your kit RTF? If not you'll need a soldering iron, heat shrink, battery connectors, some spare 16 gauge silicone wire, and a myriad of other random parts, like nylon standoffs for instance.
 
J

johnathan

Well-Known Member
Well I hage flown befote. I got a micro toyone for 30 dollars and I was in love. No the kit isnt rtf. I know I need to solder the esc to the power didistribution board. I have watched muxh YouTube videos and still I need advice. Specific advice to my specific specs.. I want to solder bullethead connectors on the esc and motors thou for easy reconnectability. But still... any advice? Anything anyone can think of.. like.. the cc3d im getting? Whats the best open source to use? Im wanting a fast quad that can go high.. and do flips.. and eventually fpv. Mmmmmmmm. Fpv. Mmmmmmm
 
tylorwashere

tylorwashere

Well-Known Member
All four esc's will need to be soldered to the power distribution board, with a common lead for the battery. Your cc3d flight controller will run libre pilot, and most motors/esc's these days come with bullet connectors already on them, although you won't be needing to swap them out barely ever, and most people cut the wires on their esc's and motors short, and just solder them together to prevent having large jumbles of wires out on all of your arms
 
RENOV8R

RENOV8R

Well-Known Member
First hobby grade quad? That's going to be quite a handful. Don't even think about 4S for now. BTW that's a pretty impressive list. Can you post a link?
 
J

johnathan

Well-Known Member
Why can't I use larger then 6 inch blades on my mini quad? Also.. what really limits my ability to put a massive motor on hete. I.e more then 2300 kv. Also how would this mini act if I plike an 800 kv motors on it? I hope I make sense..
 
tylorwashere

tylorwashere

Well-Known Member
The top plate on the blackout is a little different, the zmr is its own style frame. I actually have a FPV racer built on that frame. For how much they are asking, it's a pretty good kit. Everything is about middle of the road, as far as quality goes
 
tylorwashere

tylorwashere

Well-Known Member
johnathan said:
Why can't I use larger then 6 inch blades on my mini quad? Also.. what really limits my ability to put a massive motor on hete. I.e more then 2300 kv. Also how would this mini act if I plike an 800 kv motors on it? I hope I make sense..
Click to expand...

The lower kv the motor is, the more torque it will produce, in a sense. You need larger props because they spin slower, so the larger prop produces more lift. The reason you can't put props longer than 6 inches on is pretty straight forward, they will hit the frame.
 
J

johnathan

Well-Known Member
What if I put a really deep spacer between the frame and motor so that the props clear the frame. Would there be any perks to larger blades if this were possible? Also, fpv is whay im striding for. But that will have to be the very last thing I do.. how fast can your racing wuadego? Do you use a little 1.3 nano whatever batteru with a high c? Which ia the best you wpuld recommend?
 
tylorwashere

tylorwashere

Well-Known Member
This is a 5 inch prop, you can tell even a 6 inch would be pretty much scraping the supports for the frame. There is no advantage to having anything bigger than 6 inches, at that point you would need bigger, slower motors, which means you need bigger esc's because spinning a larger load is gonna pull more amps. You would need one hell of a spacer anyway to put the props above the battery and the 5.8 antenna (mine isn't on, I have a new Tx in the mail and I've had this apart rearranging the electronics). And yes I use 1.3ah 45c batteries 20160307_014339-480x854.jpg
 
tylorwashere

tylorwashere

Well-Known Member
Yeah, a 5.8ghz rhcp antenna. Once it gets nicer out im going to find a nice field and a stupid friend willing to stand at one end of it with a radar gun while I fly at him, im assuming it can do something like 50mph. Racing isn't really about straight line speed though, it's about being able to make tight turns and quick directional changes.
 
J

johnathan

Well-Known Member
I cant wait xD getting a controller is going to be... a nightmare. Ie. Needs to be gooooood and cheap. But great lol you know?
 
tylorwashere

tylorwashere

Well-Known Member
I have multistar elite 2204 2300kv. For the range of motors that will get a 250 in the air the most is gonna be probably 2400. More kv isn't always better, it's about the balance between kv, prop size, and amp draw
 
J

johnathan

Well-Known Member
Would paralleling two nano 1.3 batteries work better then one bigger battery? I mean weigh wise and with C in mind.
 
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