Newbie Been Bitten - First Build Questions - Advice Required Please

designer1980

New Member
So....having been using my indoor quad for some time now, and loving it - the plan is as follows:

Buy myself a Syma X5C-1 - to gain some experience outdoors.
While this is happening, I plan to build a FPV quad.

At present I think I've narrowed it down to the following models:

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Not knowing a whole lot a the moment, I've watched a few build tutorials on You Tube, and plan to absorb as much info from this forum as possible.
What would be peoples advice on the two models above please?

Also what other components would people advise I buy please, (links helpful at this stage please) what I'm keen to do is buy equipment which will last me as the hobby grows, and not buy kit which I will outgrow if that makes any sense.

Many thanks for your help in advance......
 

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If you want stuff to last & be legal, buy this.
Emax RS2205
Genuine littlebee 20 or 30amp esc
TBS greenhorn vtx
F4 omnibus or SPR F3 fcb.
Foxeer HS1177
5mm frame.
I wouldn't get the first kit & only take the frame off the second. I can't make out the esc's. I buy everything off ebay. Just search for the item then buy it cheap as I can. There is newer better kit than what I've listed but if you asked for reliability then I been using some of these for nearly 2 years.
 
Please be gentle with me guys - I'm very new to this, and appreciate your knowledge/experience - thanks in advance.

So after doing some more research, and heeding some advice - I've arrived at the parts list below:
Now before I part with any money, I just wanted to ensure that everything I've spec'd will actually work in conjunction with the other components.

I figured going for the Taranis will cover me for all my needs as the hobby develops, rather than buy a cheap radio, only to wish id spent another £100 a year later.

Battery - I appreciate is missing, keen to get peoples take on this.
Would you go for a 3S with this setup or would a 4s work?
At this stage, I'm not too fussed about speed, as I'm still very much a beginner.

Frame
Lisam LS210

Motors
4No Racestar 2205 BR2300KV

ESCS
4No Racestar RS30A

PDB
Realacc/Matek PDB-XPW 5V 12v With XT6PW Socket

FC
NAZE32 Rev6 6DOF

PROPS
Gemfan 5030 5”

RADIO
Taranis X9D Plus SE

TX
FrSky XRSB 3/16 Receiver

FPV Goggles
Eachine EV100 5.8GHz

FPV Transmitter
Eachine TX526 5.8GHz Switchable MW RP-SMA

Antenna
DYS FPV Antenna RP-SMA Female

FPV Camera
Foxeer Arrow V3 2.5mm
 
All seems fine except for that nasty naze.
Do yourself & buy an F3 or F4 with blheli passthrough. The naze doesn't have it so you would have to update the esc's before the build. & the only thing you can do is calibrate the esc. The gyros are crap in the naze believe me & can't use uarts if the USB is being used. Any cloned f3 or F4 is better & around same price aswell.
 
All seems fine except for that nasty naze.
Do yourself & buy an F3 or F4 with blheli passthrough. The naze doesn't have it so you would have to update the esc's before the build. & the only thing you can do is calibrate the esc. The gyros are crap in the naze believe me & can't use uarts if the USB is being used. Any cloned f3 or F4 is better & around same price aswell.

Ok - interesting, thanks
Please excuse my ignorance but what are uarts?

Which FC would you recommend - I'm looking on Banggood - any links would be great.....
Also what are you thoughts on batteries
 
This seems to be well recommended : Matek F405-OSD BetaFlight STM32F405 Flight Controller Built-in OSD Inverter for RC Multirotor FPV Racing Drone
- especially with the PDB I've spec'd
 
Much better. Why not go for an AIO
All in one board. With pdb. Cuts dbattery goes on weight. You can get shorter standoffs, which gives you a better CG cry goes onentre of gravity when the battery goes on. Depending on what frame you get, the camera can be fiddly.
As soon as my cams are bust I'm opting for the runcam mini range as I have a range of sizes of kwads. These will fit in all.
 
Oh sorry uart are connection points for different applications. The USB you connect to is normally uart 1, if it is VCP board then you can use aurt1 while using any other uarts. I use ibus with my tx/rx
So I have to use a serial port.
my old SPF3 don't have VCP. So I have to put them on uart3. If I plug my lead into USB I can't check anything on uart2,
Only 3. This is why the naze is crap.
You can check this VCP on the ports tab of betaflight. Should be next to aurt1 or rather with it. It's no biggy if you haven't got it. But it helps.
 
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