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ctdigger said:
View attachment 5728 Wafflejock, This is what I got with plugging items in. Opinion please.
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Generally looks good so long as all the meters on bottom stay in the green and frame size props etc are accurate in terms of size then good but make sure frame is measure diagonal motor to motor to have the calc be sure the props will fit. Also want to select the w/o drive weight option I think if not including the motor or battery weight. Think w/o battery assumes you know drive+frame weight and adds battery weight based on number of cells and per cell weight in the battery selection "row"/section. So long as all values end up at least in the yellow on the meters you should be okay to fly if you can get them in the green even better it means the setup has good power to weight and should get good flight time, but yah as I imagine you've seen as you adjust numbers some of the meters become trade offs (more flight time but lower power to weight ratio or the opposite short flight times but good power to weight and therefore speed/control)
 
Thanks. Now I need to check prices on the equipment and availability. I will send you my final list of items and then to assemble.
Ctdigger
 
1587670733540.png

Wafflejock, this is the latest ecalc , looks good I think. Now to match the hardware with some cost reduction items to fit my budget. Opinions please.
thanks
ctdigger
 
ctdigger said:
1587670733540.png

Wafflejock, this is the latest ecalc , looks good I think. Now to match the hardware with some cost reduction items to fit my budget. Opinions please.
thanks
ctdigger
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Yup looks good but in top left would select the w/o drive option so it adds the motor weight in for calculations think that's why it's giving you the red there but in general things look to be all in the right rough territory to me numbers wise. Apologies for not getting back over the weekend too just got wrapped up in tuning the hexacopter here and some other things.
 
wafflejock said:
Yup looks good but in top left would select the w/o drive option so it adds the motor weight in for calculations think that's why it's giving you the red there but in general things look to be all in the right rough territory to me numbers wise. Apologies for not getting back over the weekend too just got wrapped up in tuning the hexacopter here and some other things.
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No worries. Should I maybe check availability and pricing on parts or do you have some solid choices? I am getting ansi to start building.lol
Thanks again for all you guidance and help.
My grandsons stopped by for some social distanceing and asked about the Quad, said in process
 
Honestly I don't really know motors around this size well enough to offer useful opinion there. If you haven't picked up FC yet the Kakute-F7 is a pretty nice one I'm using on my new hexacopter build but yah for motors going to just take some shopping around or a gamble. I got super lucky and someone on the forum here gave me a set of 6 tarot 680kv 4006 motors I'm using for the hexacopter and they work okay but I don't know if I would recommend them (just seems there are more powerful options on the market, these do work but seem a bit cheap compared to my emax ones for a 5" build I use more regularly, can't complain though got motors and gps module and few other parts for $20 so was a steal). I like emax motors so if there are some in the right kv and roughly right size/current throughput then would go with those.
 
ctdigger said:
this one:
shop.holybro.com

Pixhawk 6C (Plastic Case)

Holybro
shop.holybro.com shop.holybro.com
The diagram below the info is what I need to complete the FC?
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Yup that's the one the manual for it was pretty straightforward long but can scan or Ctrl+f and search the PDF for keywords when hooking up receiver etc to see recommended pins to use. The "F7" refers to stm32F7 mcu/processor that is the heart/brains in the chip on the FC and just has a lot of UART or serial connections so the processor can pretty effortlessly talk with lots of potential devices, also just nice board layout and they soft mounted the IMU board so the sensors shouldn't feel all the small vibrations from motors on the frame and gets better performance with less software filtering that motor noise out of the sensor data.
 
Can see mine wired up in the pic below

IMG_20200419_232003_copy_1512x2016.jpg
Green wires for the most part are motor signals the one on the left with the yellow wire goes to vtx for uart control of that the yellow there is vid out to VTX, the yellow red black set of three goes to my runcam for video in. Bottom of pic has red and black for power into the FC.
 
ctdigger said:
dumb question: the picture at the bottom of the add with all the components, is that what I need for this flight controller to run video camera, gps running lights etc? Sorry for the dumb question but I'm sure I will have more.
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No worries the FS-A8S and Flysky module pictures are representative of any receiver basically and are showing where it expects the receiver signal to come in. For GPS I haven't set it up myself yet so knowledge is limited there too but basically any of the RX pins can receive data from a device (like gps) or can use the TX pins to transmit control signals to other devices for example control the VTX power output or channel from controller and goggles instead of needing to try and hunt and pec small buttons on the VTX board to change settings.

There are special pins/holes for wires for the video in and video out and then various voltage sources and gnd pads and special pins for the motors (can support at least 6 on here) on right side in my pic can see some unused pins for LED strip or grid control). Mostly I just use the basics and video in and out of the FC so it can add on screen display (osd) which overlays battery stats and other info before sending out to the VTX to receive with goggles.
 
Have to excuse the noise in video here I got it looking much better in my goggles by adding a capacitor on the main power lead but I guess good example of what it looks like if esc noise is making the power fluctuate a lot (get the big horizontal bands)


Can see in vid above the on screen display numbers in corners showing altitude voltage etc.

Also vid below so can see runcam split records pretty good video :D
 
Also good to keep in mind vids I have posted are mostly with a 5" based quad so more agile than a 10" prop based one will be but also generally get more flight time on bigger rig (also more likely to damage itself in a crash though so something to consider as well)

Also I meant flying high as in altitude since I was testing out barometer read out there but title might be read the wrong way I should probably update that
 
Looking deeper into the quad and pricing out all the things needed, it's looking closer to just buy one with everything I wand in a package quad. Looking at about $200+ not counting the frame I made in 3D print. I've been reading the link you sent me and learning about the weight/thrust ratio I believe and it gets a bit complicated. Not giving up just yet
 
Yah all in it ends up being more than that if you count the transmitter/controller and goggles but prices on those can get astronomical (check out DJI FPV system for an idea :D or FatShark HDOs, both extremely pricey top shelf products basically). For the quad itself around $200-300 range is usually "correct" assuming pretty quality components:

FC for around $40 (one I linked is a little nicer so like $10 more there),
receiver is around $20 (for controller/transmitter signal to get received),
runcam split is about $80,
VTX is about $30,
ESCs are around $40,
motors can range depending on quality etc. but usally somewhere around $60-100 on motors

https://www.getfpv.com/motors/mini-quad-motors.html?motor_kv=1126 < for around 5" quads

Motors for swinging bigger props are usually more expensive (as are the props themselves) so yah if looking to save some cash go with 5" or 3" build and can cut down on initial and long term costs pretty substantially.

https://www.getfpv.com/tiger-motor-mn3110-15-780kv.html <-- can see price here (this is pretty "cheap" for getfpv but can find better deals on banggood etc. or like I did luck out and have someone give you the motors for next to nothing :D )

"UAV futures" on Youtube does $100 build videos every year or two I think can see one of the parts lists here for that:
rotorbuilds.com

UAVFutures $100 Build

UAVFutures $100 Build
rotorbuilds.com rotorbuilds.com

but can also see there is a big cost in goggles (because Aomway commander goggles are pretty good/premium, personally use Fatshark goggles but started with Eachine box goggles that were $50... after learning to fly with no goggles just line of sight watching it with my eyeballs :D)

Guess point is cost depends on what you want to achieve and how much you want to sink into it initially vs add on later. Can get a "ready to fly" all assembled and ready to go minus the controller/transmitter

RTF Quadcopter - Buy 5" Ready to Fly FPV and Racing Drone Quadcopters | GetFPV

5" RTF Quadcopters
www.getfpv.com www.getfpv.com

RTF Quadcopter - Buy 3" RTF Quadcopter FPV and Racing Drones | GetFPV

Ready-To-Fly Quadcopters with 3" propellers.
www.getfpv.com www.getfpv.com

Or could get just frame ESCs, motors, FC, and receiver and fly line of sight with no camera or goggles (need to learn this at first anyhow) then can add parts as you learn (this is how I did it personally). Good thing about build from scratch is easier to fix things if/when they break since you did the initial work don't have to learn that later but save a lot of time buying pre-built too so all trade offs once you know what's what kind of up to you :)
 
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But yah outside the quad itself there is the controller/transmitter, personally big fan of the Jumper T16 which varies in price but around $115-130 is fair market value I think right now for one new. Then there's goggles which range from $50-$1000 basically the skies the limit :p

Good thing about transmitter and goggles is you buy once and as long as you treat them well you can keep them for a very long time and use between many different flying or other RC stuff (mostly flying probably), the quad itself you want to account for ESCs needing to be replaced if they are asked to spin a motor that is stuck and cook themselves and motors possibly getting damaged from crashes (ideally your frame protects against this). The FC and VTX etc. are mostly safe, the cam lens itself may need replacing occasionally but is like $12.

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Oh also speaking of extra costs, prebuilt or not you'll also need solder/soldering iron (TS-100 is all the rage for portable one) and batteries/charger (about $20 per battery for 5" quads typically 4S 1550mAh or so batteries) and charger can range from $30-again some crazy number :D

It is not the cheapest hobby ever but slightly cheaper than what I hear it costs for fixed wing planes or helicopters. If just dipping your toes in probably best off getting a few toy grade things and making sure it's worth the time/energy investment (I would argue it is but it definitely depends on the individual to some degree).
 
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No problem with smilies With all that is going on in the world, we need some smiles. I am a metal detectorist and that is a very expensive hobby, not much damage but to fix it cost almost as much as new. I guess this covid stuff plays on ones mind and being cooped up is nerve racking. I appreciate all of your help, suggestions AND
 
What do you think about any of the set of 4 motors shown at GetFPV? looking at some.
the list below is pretty firm so far. What else do I need? Somewhat confusing, there is so much to look at, I don't want to go crazy on cost but want half way decent stuff if you know what I mean. Goggles would be nice if I can get some under $100 that will be fine (now I'm wishing):rolleyes: Like I mentioned before, leisure flying, video picture taking of my Metal detecting clubs in action for possible youtube and most of all being with my grandsons, I guess their Dad got them a quad for a xmas gift so they have been learning abit. I beleive it cost a few $100 dollars, fold up type popular one but I don't know the name.


parts list:
FC- Kakute F7
Trans/Rec radio- Flysky i16X 2.4GHz 10 CH AFHDS 2A
FPV: Crazepony Atlati HV Vw FPV VTX 5.8G 40 CH
FPV CAMERA: Razer Micro Cam 1200TVL 1.8mm lens 4:3 FOV
 
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