For your 1st build I wouldn't go buying the latest components. Believe me.
The cheapest F3 fcb with the mpu6000 gyro is ample. I'd go with your first list.
5" sound like acro or racer. If you can afford it buy a lifetime guarantee.
Im sure RENOV8R can help there but all armattan quads have them. If racing you want a stretched X for airflow.
Acro tend to be wider as its more rotation & evenly spread. You can still get upto a stretched speed just not as fast.
4in1 or separate esc's. Weight the difference in miniscule . But its a no brainer for me. Separates all the way. You can't do anything with a 3 in 1 unless you got a tricopter
Although I have just bought my first
hakrc 15amp which will be maidened today sometime.
I digress, I do it alot.
What I'm sayin is either buy a decent frame that ain't gonna break or get cheap easy replaceable, more to the point transplant/transferable onto another frame. Take the lid off snip the zips loosen the 4 stack bolts,it all should come out in 1. Another thing not to skimp on is battery. It's better to have one consistent battery than 2 or 3 that are not well balanced or have sag. That was my mistake. I had a few different brands that did different things. Try & stick to the same brand & power ratio for consistency in flight times & power placement through the throttle. I use turnigy & tattu & turnigy graphene. Battery are mucho dollars from USA with like nearly £15 shipping tax on top. So with alot of UK vendors in UK putting VAT% on now & Royal mail won't carrier Lipo's anymore so private courier is the normal & not many give free postage or it shows in the price. So I'm paying atleast £30-£40 for a tattu 1300mah 4S
£45 for an R-line.
I run 6 of these turnigy 850mah 4S
I only get 3 & half minutes but they get a kick with the reduced weight of a 1300 or 1500. Stay clear of ZOP Lipo's. Naze32 even upgraded, they still have the old mpu6050 gyro. So apart from frame & lipo everything else is replaceable to a certain degree. So choose wisely. Hope my babble helps.
