918Mike, hello!
Seems to me from the cacophony of ESC/motor bleeps when starting up that you didn't calibrate each motor/ESC combination before assembling your drone and connecting into the FC board.
There are two steps to calibration: 1) calibrate each arm, and then 2) calibrate all the arms together.
In short, each arm (i.e. motor & ESC) has to be calibrated to let each ESC set its throttle 0% and throttle 100% levels.
You do this by putting your receiver (not connected to FC board) and your transmitter (in ACRO mode, not multicopter mode or any other mode) into a "small loop" with battery etc. (see below)
Then generally you have to put your throttle up to 100% before turning your transmitter on. That lets the ESC know you want to go into individual ESC calibration mode.
You calibrate your arm first, then you assemble your drone.
Step 1) - each arm.
You make the "small loop" by connecting your ESC to 1) your motor, 2) your main battery connector, and 3) your ESC's servo lead plugged into CH3 of your receiver.
Then your UBEC needs to be connected to 1) your receiver and 2) your main battery connector. If you have a servo tester you can use that instead of your receiver/transmitter setup, plug the tester into your ESC and main battery connector instead of the receiver, and use the tester's potentiometer to work the ESC instead.
You will need your transmitter to complete the control loop if you're not using a servo tester, and of course the transmitter needs to have fresh batteries and be bound to your receiver.
To start the calibration, you put the throttle full up to 100% on your transmitter (after setting its model mode to ACRO), then turn it on.
Then you power up your main battery connector for your UBEC/receiver/ESC and motor.
Your motor should do its power-up bleep sequence, then bleep maybe once more (SimonK) or another sequence (BLHeli etc) to tell you it's ready for calibration and has accepted the 100% throttle setting.
Set your transmitter to zero throttle.
The motor should then bleep again to tell you it has received and accepted the zero throttle setting.
Then the motor should bleep a few more times to tell you the ESC has been successfully calibrated.
Unplug the main battery.
Turn off the transmitter.
That's it.
Now test your calibration:
This time, with the throttle set at 0% (full down), turn your transmitter back on.
Plug your main battery back in.
This time your ESC/motor should do its power-up bleep sequence, and then stop.
Work your throttle and you should have your motor idle at or near the bottom of throttle, and full power near the top.
(You can fine tune all of this later, this is just to set those two parameters - zero throttle, full throttle).
If all is well, you're done with this arm, you can set it aside and move on to the next arm.
If not, recheck your connections and re-calibrate.
YOUR DRONE WILL NOT FLY if ALL your arms don't pass calibration. It's for catching bad ESCs, bad motors, bad UBECs, receivers, etc. as well as actually calibrating your arms.
For example, while building a hex recently, I must have gone through maybe nine or ten of those el-cheapo Chinese ESCs before finding a set of "matching" ESCs that all calibrated properly.
Of course, with each dodgy ESC, my "small loop" tests become stricter and stricter, and I repeated the calibration tests a couple of times, then three times to make absolutely sure each ESC was in fact functioning as it should, before running a 5-minute motor test to see if each ESC might overheat, before continuing with my build.
Step 2) - the entire system.
Once you are done with all arms, THEN you build all arms together and connect to your FC.
Then calibrate via your FC's software as you have described to fine tune everything.
Once you have done that, all your ESCs should now bleep together on power up, instead of all separately and out of step. That's what the bleep sequences on each ESC are for as well - so you can tell, on every power up, that all your ESC's are in calibration and in sync. If not, listen/feel for the out of step arm, disconnect it from your FC, and re-calibrate that arm before re-connecting it to the drone.
A lot of new builders miss the first step of calibration altogether and then wonder why the second step won't work properly.
After that, don't forget to run the motors on 50% throttle or just over it (no propellors, of course) at least one full drone battery charge and check for motor and ESC overheating all the way. I like to do two or three batteries (i.e. all the battery systems I bought for that drone) before I even think about putting props on. But that's going into pre-flight and initial flight testing, which is another story.
HTH
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C
