Ai Freedom II mods and upgrades.

Chuck

Chuck

Well-Known Member
I'm well into making significant changes to my Ai Freedom II, which is essentially a rebodied Syma X8-series quad. Being an Air Force vet, I use similar classifications for evolutionary changes.
'A' model being the original configuration from the manufacturer.
'B' model is where I swapped the original 3.7v 550 mAh throttle controller, and 7.4v 1800 mAh lipo batteries, gor 1200 mAh, and 2500 mAh versions respectively.
'C' model is the current "tall tail" modification. Where both the controller and the drone are being retrofitted with 2.4 GHz wifi antennae. The controller is already completed, and the drone will get one next. I'm using a 2 dbi antenna on both, but have a couple 6 dbi, that I will try to see how well they work out.
 

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Chuck said:
which is essentially a rebodied Syma X8-series quad.
Click to expand...
Nope.

Sure looks like this.

1452302311878988637.jpg


http://www.gearbest.com/rc-quadcopters/pp_289384.html​
 
Not the same. I've seen that one. It's identical in appearance, but closer to the size of the Syma X5 series. It also uses a different propeller, and oval LED lenses on the underside. Mine is the same size as the Syma X8's, has rectangular LED lenses, uses the same motors, propellers, hardware for the propellers, and batteries as the X8's, and uses the battery used in the X5's in the controller. That is the same controller though. For some reason (and I confirmed it through the importer), the bottom button on the right below the one used for the flip function, is not used for any operation, although it is functional. The ad list the quad using a 3.7v 450 mAh lipo battery, with a 3.7v 550 mAh battery in the controller. I have that controller, though I swapped out the 550 mAh battery for a 1200 mAh. The controller lasts much longer between recharges. My quad came with a 1800 mAh battery similar to the 2000 mAh battery used in the X8's. I swapped that out for a 2500 mAh battery.
 
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20160109165905_85678.jpg I think the one you thinking about is a similar one on the Gearbest webpage, priced at $82.95, is red in color, and has the batteries that mine had. That one is Model H25G. By the way, I ditched the prop guards after the first two practice flights. They bent easily, and fouled the props.
 
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Chuck said:
View attachment 1803 I think the one you thinking about is a similar one on the Gearbest webpage, priced at $82.95, is red in color, and has the batteries that mine had. That one is Model H25G. By the way, I ditched the prop guards after the first two practice flights. They bent easily, and fouled the props.
Click to expand...
And I think that non-functioning button on the controller may have been meant for the "One key return" listed in the Gearbest ad, but there's no mention of in the instruction manual.
 
Somebody is supplying them with common internal, and external parts. Motors, propellers, propeller drive gears, land struts, cameras, etc.
 
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I hate Mondays. Had a loose cable on my FPV camera. and tried to solder the wires back into place. Now, I get a constant rapid flashing from the LEDs, the drone won't pair with the controller, and it doesn't go away with disconnecting the FPV camera from the drone. I've tried replacing the drone battery with a fresh fully charged one, but still get the same response. I'm hoping that I didn't short out the flight control board.
 
While waiting for my replacement flight control boards (ordered two since they cost so little) from GearBest, I took the time to correct a design flaw in the landing struts. The tiny sheet metal screws supplied to attach them to the fuselage are worthless, unless you can make a perfect landing 100 percent of the time. The local hardware store had slightly larger machine screws that I matched with flat washers, lock washers, and nuts. These result in a much improved/more secure attachment, with minimal weight increase. The slight weight increase, should help increase stability in wind.
 
s-l400-1.jpg s-l400-2.jpg s-l400-3.jpg Are there any of you familiar with the Turnigy brand of RC switch relays? I've been looking at a couple, both online and in print material. That appear to allow remote control of lights, sound decoders, smoke generators, etc, onboard a quad or plane. I tried calling and talking to someone at my local store that sells and services quads. Unfortunately, the woman that answered the phone refused to let me speak to anyone there actually knowledgeable about the products. Her attitude toward Syma, and other "toy grade" quads is akin to the snooty luxury car or yaht salesman: "Those are beneath us, and if you have to ask, you can't afford it...." Can these relays control more than one device simultaneously? What is their minimum and maximum operating voltages to trigger them? How reliable are they?
 
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Finally got a response from GearBest on my order from three weeks ago. Delivery can come between ten and twenty-five business days. WTF???!!! That's two weeks to nearly a month and a half, depending on holidays!!!
 
The replacement flight control boards (I ordered two of them) for my rebranded JJRC H25 quad finally arrived, and I've replaced the defective original. Going back to the GearBest website, I found that they list two replacement FPV cameras that are identical in outward appearance, but one is for the JJRC H25C quad, while the other at about $10.00 US, is for the H25G. The flight control board is listed for both quads, plus the H25, which I presume has no FPV camera. What is the functional difference between the two cameras? Also, with the original FCB antenna having no visible ground connection, I've thought of connecting a 2 dbi wifi antenna to the outer end, which is about 1.5 inches of braided wire sheathed in a clear vinyl coating. Is this feasible, and how would I ground it, or even should or could it be grounded? I've already successfully replaced the transmitter internal antenna with the same wifi 2 dbi antenna.
 
In the environments that I fly in, (mostly available open space near truck terminals and an occassional unplanted farm field) even an additional 10-20 feet can mean the difference between it losing the signal and dropping in a tree or heavy brush, and bringing it back safely. Since I already have the antenna (got two off eBay for less than US$5.00 with free shipping), all I'm out of if it's successful, is my time to solder the leads. Is it necessary to ground it, and if so, how with no recognizable antenna ground on the board?
 
Well maybe you first try just extending the antenna wire.

Ant_X.png

That will take you from a 1/4 (31mm) to a 1/2 (62mm) wave antenna.
 
I still have the defective flight control board that I replaced. Complete with its antenna. I suppose I could cannabalize the old antenna, and splice it to the outer end of the one on the new board. That would double the over all length.
 
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