Cryonics - More thrust, but less heat?

Do you think this process is worth while.

  • Yes.

  • No

  • Maybe.

  • Only for racers


Results are only viewable after voting.

GJH105775

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UPDATE: The magnets on the motor are too loose, as the epoxy failed

Alert!!!!! Don't do this yet!!!!! Remember when I said I have just enough knowledge to get in trouble? This is a good example. I just got a SunnySky 2216 motor and a ZTW Spider 30a ESC back. The ESC is toast. The motor shows some stator and wire distortion but the worst effect is the epoxy that holds the magnets to the bell disintegrated. I went back and disassemled all the Gartt motors from before and I could remove the magnets with my fingernail. I don't know why they didn't just fly apart. I don't have the scientific background or education to do this experimenting properly. This is a prime example of learning the hard way.


I wondered about that for a split second, never thought to mention it. The electromagnets are softer metal than the bell (usually, brushed motors are the opposite). To do this, you'd probably have to send out just the coil and shaft. Glues and epoxies won't come through this process very well, as the metals are going to be a lot more malleable.



@HDtallrider Did a little informal experiment of sending motors and ESCs off to be cryogenically treated.

Explanation of what this process is:
This process usually consist of taking parts and cooling them in multiple stages to really cold temperatures, and then slowly heating them back up multiple times. This is very common practice among the audio community and audiophiles like@HDtallrider . The aviation, automotive industry, and military also uses this process. The theory is that as the metals are cooled and heated that they are rearranged in a more crystalline structure. This affects the conductivity of most metals, often making them more conductive. Having less resistance should not only yield more thrust, but less heat.


@HDtallrider Has done this with audio equipment for years andit has affected the sound. After getting into quad-copters he decided to try this on a pair of really cheap motors and ESCs. The motors fared pretty well (save for a problem with the bearings), but the really cheap ESCs began de-laminating.

According to @HDtallrider's previous experience cheap parts and PCBs don't fare the process too well, but better PCBs and parts usually come back just fine.

Seeing that the cheap motors had more thrust after the treatment he decided to do a more formal and accurate test.

He and I talked a little through PMs trying to get an idea of how/what to test. Here is what we came up with:



Thrust:

thrust%20tester_zpsvggs8cxe.png




Resistance or inductance:
I found that you cannot test resistance across the coils without really expensive muti-metre. But inductance is better for a coil. The question is what all can we determine with just inductance? Neither of us have equipment to determine self-resonant frequency, and without that you cannot calculate capacitance. link.

Break-in Period
All electrical parts have a break in period. If you test a brand new component and the test it again after a 100hours of use you will find there is a difference. After a part is cryoed that break in period starts again. Folks will notice a difference as the parts get some time on them. I have a small cheapy audio system that I use to break in cables and such. I will put in a disc I have that has music and vocals that cover a huge frequency range. I will put it on repeat and run it non stop, on low volume, for a week before I put it in my main system. I don't know how to address this regarding quads. More food for thought......

I was thinking of just doing multiple test where you run them for a little. I would be afraid of just putting them on a quad and flying as you get dirt and possible crashes to hurt the test.



Questions:

How to test the "break in period"
Know of a way to test torque?
Anything else to test?
See a better way to do something?
Suggestions?
 
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I would say that to break in the motors properly you would have to exceed the 40 to 50 hours of normal bearing life twice ( although the process will extend the bearing life ) before the coils and leads would be completely broken in. Past experience I have had requires at least 100 hours to break in any electrical component. This is simply not practical for our hobby. The positive effects of the cryo process are apparent immediately. It only gets better with age. :cool: Another idea would be to take the can off the motor and pass a low voltage current thru the coils for a few days. I don't see anyone but serious racers or professional video/photographers doing this. I know I won't. For cheapo fun builds using throw away components cryo makes no economic sense. For those that are looking to build above average quads with above average components, this process is something to consider. Whatever happened to the KISS principle............... LOL
 
Haha, I thought that KISS was only a programmer's term. Yeah, you could make a rig to do this with an arduino, an ESC, and a DC converter, but 100 hours is a really long time in terms of quadcopter motors :).
 
The KISS principle is universal. :confused: ........ Like I said. This process will likely find the most proponents from those that use KDE, Cobra, Avroto etc. motors and ESC's. Those are serious people and will most likely be the ones willing to go thru a lengthy break in to get the most from their copters. The rest of us will just get it back,put the stuff on, fly it and enjoy the better performance. Next I want to cryo a FCB and a RX. Maybe later when I get up the courage. I'm not sure I want to risk a Super X FCB or Futaba Rx. yet. They should be fine but I need to research the circuit board material more before I commit. The result could be interesting..........
 
I have seen the inside of a Hobby king 6 channel Tx and am not too impressed with the single layered PCB they used. This is of course one of the cheapest Tx you can buy. Instead of sending the controller board you'd be better to send the pots that the joysticks use if you send anything. As for the Rx I don't think there could be any benefit. I can't think of how a FCB could be helped noticeably either. I could be wrong on that though. You never know till you try. If there is much difference I may put my own motors through this process :p.
 
Most of my prior experience has involved Hi Fi and some automotive. The cryo process made noticeable changes to everything including engine management computers. Not everything came out the way I hoped which is why I am hesitating on the FCB and Rx. My limited knowledge gets me in enough trouble as is.:rolleyes: I'm gonna stick to motors and ESC's for now, or maybe just motors. That is the one place I have noticed a difference. I just wish I could cryo my flying skills so I would quit crashing all the time...............
 
Alert!!!!! Don't do this yet!!!!! Remember when I said I have just enough knowledge to get in trouble? This is a good example. I just got a SunnySky 2216 motor and a ZTW Spider 30a ESC back. The ESC is toast. The motor shows some stator and wire distortion but the worst effect is the epoxy that holds the magnets to the bell disintegrated. I went back and disassemled all the Gartt motors from before and I could remove the magnets with my fingernail. I don't know why they didn't just fly apart. I don't have the scientific background or education to do this experimenting properly. This is a prime example of learning the hard way.
 
Alert!!!!! Don't do this yet!!!!! Remember when I said I have just enough knowledge to get in trouble? This is a good example. I just got a SunnySky 2216 motor and a ZTW Spider 30a ESC back. The ESC is toast. The motor shows some stator and wire distortion but the worst effect is the epoxy that holds the magnets to the bell disintegrated. I went back and disassemled all the Gartt motors from before and I could remove the magnets with my fingernail. I don't know why they didn't just fly apart. I don't have the scientific background or education to do this experimenting properly. This is a prime example of learning the hard way.


I wondered about that for a split second, because the magnets are softer metal than the bell. To do this properly, you'd have to send out just the coil. Glues and epoxies won't come through this process very well, as the metals are going to be a lot more malleable.
 
Hi all. I have continued to pursue some answers to the issues that have cropped up.I reviewed my initial test and findings that I posted. Very unscientific. I thought back through what I did when the motors came back and realized I had reversed my "seesaw" arm. The difference is less than 3/8" but still enough to skew the data. Sorry for that. Let me say again that I am no scientist. Despite this there would still be an improvement but much less than I initially posted. My experience with the cryo process predominantly rests in improving the sound of hi end audio systems as well as in the automotive field. During the 20+ years I have used this process there have been some truly amazing results as well as failures and mediocre improvements. I'm going to put my current multi rotor results in the mediocre to failure category. I believe there is a place for this process in our hobby but not with the low quality of the Chinese motors, etc we are currently saddled with. I believe that, at least for now, the cryo process can find a home in the serious racing community where nothing but the best will do. Where a fraction of a second means the continuation or loss of sponsorship. There are already some manufacturers pushing the envelope. Cobra and KDE Direct come to mind. I think others in the multirotor community should take this and run with it. I simply don't have the qualifications. People like GJH105775 and others would be ideal. This has great promise for big advances in "HI END" :) multi rotor motors, ESC's etc. It would be a shame to let it die off.
 
Hi all! I have a minor update regarding the cryo process and motors. I sent the stator/coil/wire assemblies, without bearings, from a T Motor 3508 and a KDE 2206 to get an opinion from the owner of a cryo facility. I also sent all the specifications and technical data I was able to gather. He believes the construction and quality of the materials of these 2 brands can withstand the cryo process without damage. I believe that the performance will improve after being cryoed. I am sure my curiosity will get the better of me and I will send them off to be cryoed even though I have no plans to race or do acrobatics. I will post my ideas for a test rig before I send them off. I will try to have a solid, repeatable process. I would appreciate any ideas in that regard. I'm particularly interested in how I could measure efficiency.
 
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