will this leopard fly?

Discussion in 'First Build' started by Badfish, May 27, 2017.

  1. Badfish

    Badfish JA.O.A.T.

    And that's three.
    As I stated in my intro, I have a Syma X11C (100mm) & Blade 350QX3. I figure building somewhere in between these sizes & capabilities should be manageable, and please correct me if I'm wrong in any of these assumptions. I chose to build on this 220 leopard frame I liked. Somewhat in-expensive, yet somewhat cool is the goal I guess. I'm not even interested in cameras right now. Just want to get something flying, and I'm used to LOS anyhow.
    I plan to start by powering with 3S 35C 1300mAh batteries. The PDB provided with the frame seems suitable, but doesn't match up (visually) with any available items. I may just buy another one anyhow. This should do

    2205 2300k motors
    20A racestar ESC's
    F3 flight controller
    Flysky radio & receiver

    So is there any reason why these parts won't all play nice?
    TIA
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2017
  2. Jackson

    Jackson USA member at large

    Sure looks just like to one it comes with.

    [​IMG]

    Gep Capture.JPG
     
  3. mozquito1

    mozquito1 0.4mm from the plate. WTF.

    I know you said no cam yet but watch what vtx you get with that frame.
    A friend had to desolder the sma connection on his and put a pigtail on it.
     
  4. Badfish

    Badfish JA.O.A.T.

    Some components look to be placed different, but yes pretty much the same.
    Thanks for the heads up.

    Sooo...anything on compatibility issues for these selections?
     
  5. Badfish

    Badfish JA.O.A.T.

    Update.
    Since there wasn't much help on my query regarding compatibility or the lack of, I pulled the trigger (it's only money).
    Other that the batteries on a slow boat, everything got here yesterday & this is where I stand.
    The pads for the PDB are tinned, and the battery connector and boot pins are soldered on.
    My F3 FC is flashed and looking okay I think.
    I'm going to detach the motor leads from the ESC's & go right from the leads on the motors. Then shorten the signal wires to tidy them up.
    Since the ESC's don't have BEC's, I'm guessing I'll be powering the FC from the 5V on the PDB to the pins using the black connector, and removing the white connector & yellow wire.
    Lastly is my inexperience in RC. I did change that combo to one with this Rx. Is the PPM really as easy pins 1,2 & 3 from IO1 to the correct jack on the Rx?

    I feel like I have a pretty good handle on this, so please tell me if any of this doesn't sound right.
     

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  6. Jackson

    Jackson USA member at large

    You may as well go with IBus (serial) instead of PPM, you'll get a steadier output.

     
  7. Badfish

    Badfish JA.O.A.T.

    Update.
    Holy crap is this thing fast!!
    A big thanks to the "painless 360" youtube channel, and google. Not so much to the less than helpful forum here though. As a newb, I hate to come off as snide, but answering a simple question with another question or suggestion just doesn't help.
    Any newcomers that experience the same reception as I, feel free to PM me for help.
     

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