As i tried to make clear in my previous post, this is exactly what i've tried so far. At least we agree haha. I don't know wich point to try next. It seems clear the transmitter is working perfectly because i'm able to fly. Unfortunately the signal isnt transmitted by the antenna, causing a loss of signal at a few feet distanceWhat about middle wire to the either the shiny piece that looks like a sawtooth sine wave, or the piece that looks like a sawtooth sine wave with the soldermask that the arrow is pointing to? And the ground to the ground plane?
Well I just looked. I found this pic.@Jackson the h107d transmitter does have a connection to ground with stock antenna. Nice info about the antenna length, will definitely look into that when i got this up and running. Thanks!
Wow, i don't have a clue where you've found that pic. This means the OP of this topic might not be entirely correct?Well I just looked. I found this pic.
That little squiggle is the antenna and is not grounded as far as I can tell. It's just a different (but more consistent) approach to the usual wire stub most use. The 5.8Gh on the right is an official coax cable with grounding. Assuming the squiggle is a proper 1/4 wave length (probably is) simply tacking on more wire (red line) in 31.25mm increments will do the trick. Adding 93.75 mm should give you a full wave which is all that is needed. I can't figure the scale in the pic, but if the length is not enough to get outside this should also work.
Maybe there are different revisions of the PCB, but for this one my simple method will work.
In my original post the simple wire add-on made a significant difference in range.
Good luck on your modding.
Wow, i don't have a clue where you've found that pic. This means the OP of this topic might not be entirely correct?
I'm planning on hooking up an wireless Internet antenna, do you have any information on how long the signal wire in the inside of the plastic antenna is? (maybe this isn't possible because the wire might be too long? Or is it possible to double the length?)
Based on your information, I just have to connect the signal wire and leave the ground of the antenna unconnected?
Many thanks for helping me out, both of you. I really appreciate it!
The OP showed a pic of an attempted mod using a standard antenna with coax. I really don't know how attaching just the core of the coax will work and how that will affect the wave length without grounded shielding.Wow, i don't have a clue where you've found that pic. This means the OP of this topic might not be entirely correct?
Based on your information, I just have to connect the signal wire and leave the ground of the antenna unconnected?
I would imagine that it would work either way, just an improvement to the range.Hi to everyone, I'm new to this forum. I came across this thread so I thought that I would post the following. I have two h107d's, each of them came with a tx remote control. One of the h107d's works as it should, but the other does not. I new that the other did not work properly when I bought it so It's not an issue. I got it for spares. The interesting thing is that the circuit boards in the tx remotes have different version numbers. One has a version number v2.2 and the other has a version number v2.3. I've only had a quick look at both the boards and the only major difference that I can see is that the v2.3 has a 2.4 ghz antenna which is similar to the antenna that is fitted to the quad. the antenna is fitted inside of the housing of the transmitter case and is mounted horizontally. The etched antenna is still there, but it is no used. In fact it appears that it is not connected at all. If anyone else has a v2.3 then can they confirm that it has an antenna as I have described.
I noticed a mistake alot of hubsan modders make when modding the antenna.
They use the wrong trace on the radio.
the thinner trace is the 2.4Ghz antenna.
View attachment 517
See matched trace on flight controller.
View attachment 518
So yeah this will be the hubsan mod to remember as being the right one.
Like this dude and many others.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=30833799&postcount=220
I feel sorry for him since his setup would have rocked.
Ok, i got it - pin 3 is RFI - radio frequency IN, not out. If you're going to extend its range as TX, you're supposed to use pin 4.Are you sure about thinner track being the antenna? Here is the datasheet for A7105 transceiver http://d1.amobbs.com/bbs_upload782111/files_37/ourdev_624976V4QBXF.pdf
and on page 65 there is a application diagram. 4th pin is supposed to be leading to the antenna, so these guys seem to be correct.