Repairing shorted Lipo (Why not to)

Discussion in 'Experimentation' started by GJH105775, Mar 13, 2015.

  1. GJH105775

    GJH105775 Avid Linux User, and USAF 1C6 Moderator

    Before I say much, opening lipos can be dangerous, applying heat to solder on pads makes it even more dangerous. This is for informational use only. (yeah... right) DO NOT DO THIS AT HOME. If you must do it at a friends house (preferably while they don't know you are there). If you burn down what ever building I am not responsible. Do not do this if you don't have enough experience to feel comfortable.
    By reading this you are giving me the rights to own all of your mutirotors, left socks, and inspect your underwear drawers (I don't really know why I'd want to). But seriously be careful, and don't do anything too stupid.

    Quadcopterforums nor I are responsible for any damage incurred while using this information.

    For obious saftey reasons that were brought to my attention I removed this post. But I will say that if a LiPo shorts and it appears to have just melted the solder on the wire leads comming out, it has almost certainly done more than that. It will heat the aluminium wires to the point where they begin to quickly corrode. This makes the leads VERY dangerous.

    I thought my LiPo just melted the end off. When I soldered it back on it appeared fine. i thought I was done. While I was pulling the heatshrink into place on the second wire. I noticed that the lead had been broken inside the insulation. When I tried to splice it I found I could not as the wire had become VERY brittle.

    I also found the LiPo was damaged on the inside the LiPo's case.


    Notice the wire is barely tinned where it got hot, there was loose solder in the housing.


    The white is where the red wire became corroded inside the wire insulation, this is because the really fine wire got hot quick.


    Yet another picture. If your wires are stiff or burnt, don't try to salvage them.

    This is just a battery that jumped it's housing in a wreck, and was not shorted, though I did replace the Balance plug with no soldering, as good as factory. Message me if you would like a parts link or to know how.


    It is dangerous to not just pitch them when they have been shorted, but if you are (like me) foolish enough to fix them contact me through email @
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2016
    Bug Eyes and Nighthalk105 like this.
  2. GJH105775

    GJH105775 Avid Linux User, and USAF 1C6 Moderator

    Want to know more about LiPos, take a look at this guide.
  3. whateverls16

    whateverls16 New Member

    Thank you so much for your guide :)
    it helped me so much
  4. GJH105775

    GJH105775 Avid Linux User, and USAF 1C6 Moderator

    Glad it could help. I've repaired several lipos since, with various problems so I might try to expand on this a bit. Also if you have any tips or tricks for LiPos be sure to make your own thread and I'll include it.
  5. RENOV8R

    RENOV8R Well-Known Member

    OK, I have 1 very important tip, this happened to me just a couple days ago. If you're soldering new plugs onto your lipo (changing from Deans to XT60), lay the plug on it's side or vertically so that if you apply too much solder, it doesn't flow down onto the other wire. I soldered on a negative wire to a plug and when I looked, the solder had dripped down and I had solid solder from the negative touching the heat shrink of the positive side!! (cue the mad dash outside) which brings me to my next point. NEVER cut off both wires when changing plugs, do them one at a time so that the other wire is always insulated and there's no chance of a short
  6. GJH105775

    GJH105775 Avid Linux User, and USAF 1C6 Moderator

    I've never thought of that, but THAT would be pretty scary, did the solder crystalize and splash the moment it made contact, or did it dead short until something else burned?
  7. RENOV8R

    RENOV8R Well-Known Member

    No, that's the funny part. I should have taken a photo but I was freaking out. It was just solid solder between the 2 connections right at the plug. I guess it just wasn't hot enough to melt through the shrink tube and cause a dead short. I just snipped the wire off right behind the solder and it was fine. I was a LOT more careful the second time hahaha
  8. GJH105775

    GJH105775 Avid Linux User, and USAF 1C6 Moderator

    Hahaha, yeah I always solder on e at a time and hear shrink so that I never have two exposed. Though melting through the heatshrink could become a problem on the second one hahaha
  9. RENOV8R

    RENOV8R Well-Known Member

    I've had a 1 cell 500 mah burst and it was pretty bad, filled the whole basement with smoke. This one was a 4S 10,000 mah, can't even imagine....................
  10. DuaneM

    DuaneM Drone? I don't see any drone ... crap!

    Okay I learned this one the hard way. I wasn't paying attention (can't afford it) and cut both the main wires to add a XT60 connector onto the battery. It sparked and flashed and was quite loud. It DID NOT catch fire or explode (I wouldn't be here if it did), but it did melt the aluminum that connects the cells together.

    I have attempted to solder them using a larger soldering gun and regular 'ole rosin core solder. It worked for awhile, until today. Plugged it into the quad and it just quietly " popped". So I opened it up again and did the same thing only bigger! It works for now ....

    I did learn something from reading this post, I didn't even think about the metal used to make these batteries. Now I know it's aluminum and will find the proper way to weld this metal. Or die trying.
  11. GJH105775

    GJH105775 Avid Linux User, and USAF 1C6 Moderator

    Hahaha, hopefully you don't die trying, but I would try some silver bearing solders (not the lead free ones) and I personally like to use flux and rosin core.

    They do make some solder for aluminium, however I stay away from it because it eats expensive tips fast.
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2017
  12. DuaneM

    DuaneM Drone? I don't see any drone ... crap!

    Silver Solder Bearings? Is this like a "Chrome Muffler Bearing?"

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