I would get just the XT-60 connectors and an assortment of good silicone wire. These can be had at any online shop such as GetFPV or RDQ. You should at least get lengths of 14 awg (for main power), 18awg (motor wire) and 30awg (receiver, gps, vtx, etc.) As far as GPS modules go, you have 2 options: If you plan on using iNav for full autonomous flight, then the BN-880 with built-in compass is a good choice. If you are planning to use Betaflight which only supports "rescue mode", no compass I srequired and a BN220 type GPS module is all that's required. Here's a 7" I'm currently building which is utilizing the BN880 View attachment 4766
Actually cost less than you'd think, probably around $300. Of course that doesn't include the Session 5. Here's my favorite, the Catalyst Machineworks Smooth Operator. A little more expensive as the frame is up around $100
Yeah really it depends largely on what components you're getting and what size but for a "typical" racing or acrobatic quad it's a 250mm frame with 5" props (5045 is 5.0 inch with 4.5 inch pitch meaning if you moved the prop through thick mollases it would move 4.5 inches vertically when spun, tells you how tilted the prop is and how hard it pushes against the air, 5030 I think are also pretty popular more thrust with higher pitch but think less efficient and more amperage needed in general). Saw on rotor riot episode some people in higher altitudes actually use higher pitch props to make up for the thin air.
Generally speaking this is what you need:
Flight controller (FC): The brains of the operation has accelerometer/gyro and maybe other sensors and takes input from receiver (part that receives signal from your controller/transmitter) and has outputs that send signals to the motors to control their speed. The FC is around $40-70 (it's mostly a STM32F4 plus the other sensor that cost whatever they cost plus assembly and profit).
Frame: $20-100 plastic or carbon fiber if you have the money and want something very durable, it holds things together
Motors: $40-100 they spin the props they are given specs in terms of the bell (spinning part) size in height and diameter and kv which is the number of RPM for each volt applied, a 2600kv 2206 motor would be 26mm diameter 06mm height and would spin 2600rpm if 1 volt is applied (with a 4S battery you have around 16V so 16*2600 = 41,600RPM at max throttle). Bigger motor typically means more torque (bigger magnets and coils inside)
ESCs: Control flow of power/electricity from the battery to the motors, get signal from FC on how fast to drive the motors (do fancy BLDC stuff). Usually around $10 a piece or can get a set for $30-50 range (depends on voltage range support and amperage).
Props: usually get about 16 for $12 or so but if you go much larger the 10" ones get expensive (same with motors to swing them)
Transmitter and receiver: $100-600
FPV Gear: camera+receiver+display = $200 - $800 << this is where it can get extra expensive, luckily can re-use this and the transmitter with many models/craft
Ok, got it. What would be a good mix then when it comes to bolts and grommets? ...as I can't order it bolt by bolt. ;-)
As the gromments. Are those for cables protection in this case or to insulate/counteract vibration for electronics....or both. Need to understand.
You're best off to get your assortment of M3 bolts from a local hardware or fastener store. Heck you can get a dozen each of 6, 8, 10, 15, 20, 25 and 30mm for less than $10. As for the grommets, they are for vibration isolation. Most frames have a point in the throttle range where they have some resonance and the grommets will prevent the noise from affecting the gyro.
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I'd be a little leary of that first cheap no-name lipo from BG. Probly poor quality and inflated specs. Tattu lipos have gained a name for great performance and longevity and probably the most popular lipo among quadcopter pilots. That being said, i use only RDQ Series lipos from RaceDayQuads, but they are in the US and it appears you are in the UK?
I've been using the Tattu batteries for a bit, they have worked pretty well but like all LiPos do degrade over time. Recently got a couple of ones from Ovonic on Amazon cause they were cheap and have been really solid seeming so far but always a matter of how many cycles do you get out of em before they start losing the ability to hold as much charge.
I have finally started this build, slowly. I will need some help to get this all done the right way and I know you guys are with me. First thing i need pointers on is this. The ESC Distribution Board I've purchased don't seem to fit any of the holes in my frame. Is there a a trick to get this sorted or do I need to get some other board? I'm I missing something? Please see attached photos. I plan to start with soldering the engines to this board and thus I'm stuck here. Thanks in advance!