Newbie Been Bitten - First Build Questions - Advice Required Please

Discussion in 'First Build' started by designer1980, Jan 8, 2018.

  1. designer1980

    designer1980 New Member

    So....having been using my indoor quad for some time now, and loving it - the plan is as follows:

    Buy myself a Syma X5C-1 - to gain some experience outdoors.
    While this is happening, I plan to build a FPV quad.

    At present I think I've narrowed it down to the following models:

    upload_2018-1-8_10-19-33.png


    Not knowing a whole lot a the moment, I've watched a few build tutorials on You Tube, and plan to absorb as much info from this forum as possible.
    What would be peoples advice on the two models above please?

    Also what other components would people advise I buy please, (links helpful at this stage please) what I'm keen to do is buy equipment which will last me as the hobby grows, and not buy kit which I will outgrow if that makes any sense.

    Many thanks for your help in advance......
     

    Attached Files:

  2. mozquito1

    mozquito1 Well-Known Member

    If you want stuff to last & be legal, buy this.
    Emax RS2205
    Genuine littlebee 20 or 30amp esc
    TBS greenhorn vtx
    F4 omnibus or SPR F3 fcb.
    Foxeer HS1177
    5mm frame.
    I wouldn't get the first kit & only take the frame off the second. I can't make out the esc's. I buy everything off ebay. Just search for the item then buy it cheap as I can. There is newer better kit than what I've listed but if you asked for reliability then I been using some of these for nearly 2 years.
     
    designer1980 likes this.
  3. mozquito1

    mozquito1 Well-Known Member

    Literally 4 esc's & fcb = 2years.
     
  4. designer1980

    designer1980 New Member

    Please be gentle with me guys - I'm very new to this, and appreciate your knowledge/experience - thanks in advance.

    So after doing some more research, and heeding some advice - I've arrived at the parts list below:
    Now before I part with any money, I just wanted to ensure that everything I've spec'd will actually work in conjunction with the other components.

    I figured going for the Taranis will cover me for all my needs as the hobby develops, rather than buy a cheap radio, only to wish id spent another £100 a year later.

    Battery - I appreciate is missing, keen to get peoples take on this.
    Would you go for a 3S with this setup or would a 4s work?
    At this stage, I'm not too fussed about speed, as I'm still very much a beginner.

    Frame
    Lisam LS210

    Motors
    4No Racestar 2205 BR2300KV

    ESCS
    4No Racestar RS30A

    PDB
    Realacc/Matek PDB-XPW 5V 12v With XT6PW Socket

    FC
    NAZE32 Rev6 6DOF

    PROPS
    Gemfan 5030 5”

    RADIO
    Taranis X9D Plus SE

    TX
    FrSky XRSB 3/16 Receiver

    FPV Goggles
    Eachine EV100 5.8GHz

    FPV Transmitter
    Eachine TX526 5.8GHz Switchable MW RP-SMA

    Antenna
    DYS FPV Antenna RP-SMA Female

    FPV Camera
    Foxeer Arrow V3 2.5mm
     
  5. mozquito1

    mozquito1 Well-Known Member

    All seems fine except for that nasty naze.
    Do yourself & buy an F3 or F4 with blheli passthrough. The naze doesn't have it so you would have to update the esc's before the build. & the only thing you can do is calibrate the esc. The gyros are crap in the naze believe me & can't use uarts if the USB is being used. Any cloned f3 or F4 is better & around same price aswell.
     
  6. designer1980

    designer1980 New Member

    Ok - interesting, thanks
    Please excuse my ignorance but what are uarts?

    Which FC would you recommend - I'm looking on Banggood - any links would be great.....
    Also what are you thoughts on batteries
     
  7. designer1980

    designer1980 New Member

    This seems to be well recommended : Matek F405-OSD BetaFlight STM32F405 Flight Controller Built-in OSD Inverter for RC Multirotor FPV Racing Drone
    - especially with the PDB I've spec'd
     
  8. mozquito1

    mozquito1 Well-Known Member

    Much better. Why not go for an AIO
    All in one board. With pdb. Cuts dbattery goes on weight. You can get shorter standoffs, which gives you a better CG cry goes onentre of gravity when the battery goes on. Depending on what frame you get, the camera can be fiddly.
    As soon as my cams are bust I'm opting for the runcam mini range as I have a range of sizes of kwads. These will fit in all.
     
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  9. mozquito1

    mozquito1 Well-Known Member

    Oh sorry uart are connection points for different applications. The USB you connect to is normally uart 1, if it is VCP board then you can use aurt1 while using any other uarts. I use ibus with my tx/rx
    So I have to use a serial port.
    my old SPF3 don't have VCP. So I have to put them on uart3. If I plug my lead into USB I can't check anything on uart2,
    Only 3. This is why the naze is crap.
    You can check this VCP on the ports tab of betaflight. Should be next to aurt1 or rather with it. It's no biggy if you haven't got it. But it helps.
     
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