Hi! I am looking to build my first racing drone and I am using a SP Racing F3 flight controller. I understand that I need a voltage regulator to convert the battery voltage to 5v for the FC, but I want to ensure that I save enough space in my drones frame for other parts and accessories such as video transmitters and my receiver. I also wanted to use the 4-in-one ESC to keep the weight of my drone to a minimum because the one I am looking at has dual BEC, but I have heard from a very popular YouTuber that 4-in-one ESC's have poor voltage regulators and tend to burn up. Can someone please help guide me a bit?
Need help deciding whether to use a PDB or a 4-in-one ESC
- Thread starter trev
- Start date
mozquito1
Well-Known Member
There is not much weight difference in separates to a 4in1.
A 4in1 will power a flight controller, which may in turn power an rx but not a vtx unless its a 5v, then the cam.
IMO a pdb is a better option 5v & 12v bec with clean(ish) power along with separate esc's. You can't do anything with a 3in1. While I do still use SPRF3 in one of my builds, it is the last board on my list. And I don't mean that in a bad way either. It's just a basic reliable board.
But for literally a few notes more you can have an F4 with osd & the MPU6000 gyro
Better wiring options. Dshot.
A 4in1 will power a flight controller, which may in turn power an rx but not a vtx unless its a 5v, then the cam.
IMO a pdb is a better option 5v & 12v bec with clean(ish) power along with separate esc's. You can't do anything with a 3in1. While I do still use SPRF3 in one of my builds, it is the last board on my list. And I don't mean that in a bad way either. It's just a basic reliable board.
But for literally a few notes more you can have an F4 with osd & the MPU6000 gyro
Better wiring options. Dshot.
Thank you so much mozquito1!! This was just the kind of honest response I was looking for! I've decided to take your advice and go with the PDB and single ESC. May I ask you which PDB you would recommend to use with the SPRF3 FC? I was looking at getting https://www.racedayquads.com/products/matek-fchub-a5-w-current-sensor-184a-bec-5v-2a . If you think this is a nice PDB choice then would you recommend that I get 30amp or 35amp ESC's? Also, Thank you again for replying so quickly to my request for help!!! I truly appreciate you!
Hi mozquito1! I hope all has been well with you! I was about to purchase the matek 30 amp PDB that I showed you earlier, but then I noticed that it said that it was designed to be paired with this flight controller https://www.racedayquads.com/products/matek-f405-mini-flight-controller . As I mentioned before, I wanted to use my SPRF3 flight controller since I already have it ready to use at home, but now I am confused as to if that PDB will work well with my flight controller. I purchased my frame already and it says that it comes with a PDB but I fear that the PDB it comes with will be garbage since I was not able to find any information about the PDB that is included, as far as the make and model goes. so I do not know if it has current sensing, the amps that it is rated for (like 150 or 184 amp), or if it has pad for BLheli32 for telemetry support. Over all, my main question is can any PDB work with any FC as long as the PDB has BEC voltage regulation? I'm sorry if I'm asking dumb (noobish) questions, it's just that a part of me feels like it is important to confirm my thoughts, with someone intelligent like you, before assuming that there is only one way to doing something. Thank you for taking the time to read all of this!
Sweet!! Thank you mozquito1! After you said that it would work I examined it more to figure it out and I feel pretty confident about wiring it up to my flight controller now. I expect my motors to draw a lot of amperage because I'm going to be putting tri-blade propellers that have a slight bullnose on them so I can get longer flight time out of my battery with a good balance of high thrust per amp. Do you have any recommendations for some strong lightweight tri-blade propellers? I haven't calculated the total weight of my build yet but I want to guess that it will be around 440g if I get:
https://www.banggood.com/4X-DYS-DS3...p-1139130.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN (Already ordered)
https://www.banggood.com/GEPRC-GEP-...p-1097725.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN (Already ordered)
https://www.banggood.com/Upgrade-NA...-1010232.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=USA (Already have)
https://www.racedayquads.com/produc...-8v-4s-100c-li-po-battery?variant=43022974931
https://www.racedayquads.com/products/matek-fchub-a5-w-current-sensor-184a-bec-5v-2a
https://www.racedayquads.com/produc...00mw-u-fl-or-mmcx?aff=2&variant=8184624152683
https://www.banggood.com/4X-Racerst...l?rmmds=cart_middle_products&cur_warehouse=CN
https://www.banggood.com/Orange-120...?rmmds=search&ID=51789644069&cur_warehouse=CN (not really considering this cam, just using it for weight example)
If you also have any suggestions for cheap lightweight motors and props that work well together to produce a lot of thrust and not kill my battery fast then I would really appreciate it as I do with all the other information you provide me with. I feel like I kinda jumped the gun on buying the ESC's before buying the motors. At that time I was under the impression that a slightly bigger sized motor, like the 2205 2400kv, would be great for delivering the very fast speed and turning performance that I want (like making shark U-turns, weaving between trees, and doing a few acrobatics). But I watched this video
and now I feel like because I have these high rated ESC's I would be loosing if I got 2205 when maybe a slightly smaller motor with higher kv would be more efficient, but at the same time wont use the ESC's to their full potential. Once again, I'm sorry if i am asking really dumb (noobish) questions, I just want to ensure I can go FAST, have great response when making precision turns, and can do some nice acrobatics. Please lmk what you think. I hope you are having a great weekend so far! 
https://www.banggood.com/4X-DYS-DS3...p-1139130.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN (Already ordered)
https://www.banggood.com/GEPRC-GEP-...p-1097725.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN (Already ordered)
https://www.banggood.com/Upgrade-NA...-1010232.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=USA (Already have)
https://www.racedayquads.com/produc...-8v-4s-100c-li-po-battery?variant=43022974931
https://www.racedayquads.com/products/matek-fchub-a5-w-current-sensor-184a-bec-5v-2a
https://www.racedayquads.com/produc...00mw-u-fl-or-mmcx?aff=2&variant=8184624152683
https://www.banggood.com/4X-Racerst...l?rmmds=cart_middle_products&cur_warehouse=CN
https://www.banggood.com/Orange-120...?rmmds=search&ID=51789644069&cur_warehouse=CN (not really considering this cam, just using it for weight example)
If you also have any suggestions for cheap lightweight motors and props that work well together to produce a lot of thrust and not kill my battery fast then I would really appreciate it as I do with all the other information you provide me with. I feel like I kinda jumped the gun on buying the ESC's before buying the motors. At that time I was under the impression that a slightly bigger sized motor, like the 2205 2400kv, would be great for delivering the very fast speed and turning performance that I want (like making shark U-turns, weaving between trees, and doing a few acrobatics). But I watched this video
mozquito1
Well-Known Member
I run a few tri blades, in order of likeness.
Dal cyclone V2
Dal T5054
King Kong 5045
Emax avan tri & dual.
People say different but i started flying gemfan & they where never as durable as Dal props. That's all I was looking for, durability,as a beginner.
I've just built a wing but the avan won't go on upside down. I got shed loads of old dual bull nose & triblades. I'm OK for a few years flying. The Dal I've been flying for nearly 3 years. So you could say I'm used to them by now. And someone else is saying the same thing about gemfan.
Bullnose props have more bite at the expense of amp draw. While the opposite for non Bullnose, but I find they feel a lot more skiddy. I like the instant power for moves rather than have to take into account because the props are slimmer.
Bigger prop surface works both ways.
I just ordered some butter cutter from China but its been 23 days now
Dal cyclone V2
Dal T5054
King Kong 5045
Emax avan tri & dual.
People say different but i started flying gemfan & they where never as durable as Dal props. That's all I was looking for, durability,as a beginner.
I've just built a wing but the avan won't go on upside down. I got shed loads of old dual bull nose & triblades. I'm OK for a few years flying. The Dal I've been flying for nearly 3 years. So you could say I'm used to them by now. And someone else is saying the same thing about gemfan.
Bullnose props have more bite at the expense of amp draw. While the opposite for non Bullnose, but I find they feel a lot more skiddy. I like the instant power for moves rather than have to take into account because the props are slimmer.
Bigger prop surface works both ways.
I just ordered some butter cutter from China but its been 23 days now
Awesome!! I'm sorry for the late response but thank you for the informative suggestions. After doing some research on the props you mentioned I think I will try out the Dal cyclone V2 props first. I have another question that I am not sure if you will know the answer to, but I have a RadioLink AT10ii controller and I have been trying to get it to work with my computer for flight simulations. The problem I am having is that when I connect everything my computer does not pick up any signal. Do you think that I have to enable a feature on my controller so it knows to send a simulation signal to the computer? Another problem might be that I made a simulation cable using an s-video wire and an aux wire, but based off of what I researched, the cable I made should work perfectly. Thank you so much for all the help and advice you have been giving me mozquito1!
mozquito1
Well-Known Member
You will notice there is more than 2 pins on the port with the ground being the outside. These cables are peanuts on ebay.
The calibration screen came up and you just moved the corresponding stick to the outer edge in all directions.
Click finish, done.
I think the one above is a trainer cable. & is what I first used, but had to mod one end. I chucked it away but then reset my i6 & needed one again. So I just bought this below.
A quick Google say your tx is simulation compatible.
The calibration screen came up and you just moved the corresponding stick to the outer edge in all directions.
Click finish, done.
I think the one above is a trainer cable. & is what I first used, but had to mod one end. I chucked it away but then reset my i6 & needed one again. So I just bought this below.
A quick Google say your tx is simulation compatible.