Hand soldering the red board would not work as most of the board is heat sink for the motor driver.
Using my magnifying visor, I carefully apply "Chip Quick" rework solder paste to the pads using a toothpick. Then I stick the parts in place. 0603 parts are easy enough to do this way but 0402 parts are evil. Then I place it on my cold electric skillet. The thermostat of the skillet has been disabled so it will just get hotter and hotter as long as I leave it plugged. I did this because the thermostat let it get ALMOST hot enough. Then I plug it in and watch closely. After a few minutes, the gray solder paste will turn bright silver. Then a minute or so later, it sucks itself up around the pins. When all or at least most of the pins are nicely soldered, I unplug the skillet and let it cool slowly. This approximates the "Temperature Profile."
Any touchups are easy to do with an iron and some solder wick aided by kester no-clean smd flux. You can easily solder down an unsoldered pin by putting a tiny droplet of solder on the tip of the iron and heating the pin and pad. Suddenly, the droplet will flow.
The daughter board is a counterfeit NRF 24L01 module like you get on ebay for $1. As long as you know these are counterfeit parts, they're easy to use, and work well. There is one difference between these and the real parts. The difference? There's a mistake in the manual published by Nordic, and these behave according to the mistake. Real ones interpret one bit in a control register opposite from the manual.
It is a receiver for operating a G gauge locomotive. It has 2 way communication to the remote, though for the time being the transmitter doesn't have anything it can do with data it receives. I run my trains on batteries and R/C 'cause keeping track clean outdoors is for the birds.
I'll let you guess who "Barefoot Electronics" is.