Umm.... might be burnt out xD.
FPV feed cut out issues. HELP!!!!!
- Thread starter katheiser
- Start date
katheiser
Invading your airspace, Colorado, USA
Thank you very much GJH. everything seems to be fine.
So thinking that my vtx is the problem, I started this morning to look at buying a new one. I stupidly glued in my camera, so I think im pretty much stuck with the setup I have, unless I can figure out how to get the camera out. Any ways, Im looking at the vrx I have, and its only 8 channel, and my Vtx is 32. I don't think this would matter? here are the links to what I HAVE...
VTX and camera
http://rctimer.com/product-1275.html
VRX
http://rctimer.com/product-993.html
Antennas
http://rctimer.com/product-1090.html
Does anyone see any thing im missing here? Anyone got any ideas how to un super glue a camera? (lol) Just want to check before I order something else. Possibly some one can suggest a better setup? Around the $100 range? I just want setup to be as simple as possible. Thanks!
So thinking that my vtx is the problem, I started this morning to look at buying a new one. I stupidly glued in my camera, so I think im pretty much stuck with the setup I have, unless I can figure out how to get the camera out. Any ways, Im looking at the vrx I have, and its only 8 channel, and my Vtx is 32. I don't think this would matter? here are the links to what I HAVE...
VTX and camera
http://rctimer.com/product-1275.html
VRX
http://rctimer.com/product-993.html
Antennas
http://rctimer.com/product-1090.html
Does anyone see any thing im missing here? Anyone got any ideas how to un super glue a camera? (lol) Just want to check before I order something else. Possibly some one can suggest a better setup? Around the $100 range? I just want setup to be as simple as possible. Thanks!
Good idea, make sure not to get acetone free, and some super glues are acetone based (mostly if it smells really strong and probably will be made in Ireland), so you may need an even stronger/more concentrated solvent.
Wildwelder
Well-Known Member
From what I understand about this, you've def burnt the vtx.
Gyro Doctor
Electronics Tech for over 45 years
I'm missing something here. With the PDB properly wired up for 12v to TX and 5v to the camera
you are still getting VTX dropouts when punching out or not ?
you are still getting VTX dropouts when punching out or not ?
If this is the case your LiPo alarm should be going off and it would need you need some better batteries.
Gyro Doctor
Electronics Tech for over 45 years
That was a question not a statement, it's unclear to me what the nature of this problem is after correcting the PDB being miswired.
I respectfully disagree with your thinking the batteries need replacement though. Voltage lags don't necessarily mean the batteries you're using aren't up to the job and even "better batteries", as you say, will exhibit the same behavior as they near the low end of their normal usage range when called upon to suddenly provide a surge of power. As for the alarm, LiPo alarms might chirp at a voltage sag but it's won't "be going off" because after easing off the throttle the battery voltage climbs back to above the alarm threshold again.
Replacing VTXs won't solve the problem if voltage lag IS indeed whats going on here. I also seriously doubt leaving the battery in overnight damaged anything either, since
that would simply simulate the normal use of the VTX, once the battery is depleted the VTX goes dormant. Not trying to be argumentative or anything, I just hate seeing money being thrown at a problem when it's not needed, especially if it's not even addressing the problem
That was a question not a statement, it's unclear to me what the nature of this problem is after correcting the PDB being miswired.
I respectfully disagree with your thinking the batteries need replacement though. Voltage lags don't necessarily mean the batteries you're using aren't up to the job and even "better batteries", as you say, will exhibit the same behavior as they near the low end of their normal usage range when called upon to suddenly provide a surge of power. As for the alarm, LiPo alarms might chirp at a voltage sag but it's won't "be going off" because after easing off the throttle the battery voltage climbs back to above the alarm threshold again.
Replacing VTXs won't solve the problem if voltage lag IS indeed whats going on here. I also seriously doubt leaving the battery in overnight damaged anything either, since
that would simply simulate the normal use of the VTX, once the battery is depleted the VTX goes dormant. Not trying to be argumentative or anything, I just hate seeing money being thrown at a problem when it's not needed, especially if it's not even addressing the problem
Well if a LiPo's voltage drops too low (usually below 3.3v) the battery's life will diminish, and many chargers won't even charge after that point unless you put it into NiMh or Lead Acid mode. Many VTx don't have a LoVo cut-off unless your using a BEC.
I was not only referring to the quality of the battery but also the C rating. If the battery is designed for 90 amps and you are pulling 80-100 amps on punchout you are more likely to have problem than a higher rated battery that is say rated for 150 amps. I'm not saying that this is the case, I'm saying this is something to keep in mind when testing for the problem.
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Gyro Doctor
Electronics Tech for over 45 years
Agreed.
I've personally drained bats to where the balance charger refused to even try and would just keep giving me an error message.
Not really a problem though, just charge it a little with the "stupid" wall-wart that comes with most everything to get it back up
enough, then a balance charger will take it just fine.
Ehh, out of 4 only 1 has come out to where the cells still balance. They form oxidation between the layers within the battery and it pretty much ruins them. They are usually fine for low discharge applications though as the higher internal resistance does not impair them much for that. Now of course this varies on the battery and how low it was discharged. Some won't fare as well as others.
Gyro Doctor
Electronics Tech for over 45 years
I probably have about 20 battery packs of assorted sizes and chemistries I use for various things, and for quads I have about six batteries, four of which I baby. One had a cell dropped to 2.95 and wouldn't balance charge at all until I got it started with the stock charger then switched it to my Imax B6 and was then just fine. Another pack was left hanging in a tree for two days ! ... lol ... I was sure it was toast and was hesitant to even recharge it, but I put that one on my digital power supply and nursed it back from high 270's to 280-ish on all cells to 3.2 for each cell, one at a time, and to my surprise the Imax took care of the rest. I cycled it several times with balanced discharging and recharging, then when it was finished the cell differentials where only 0.3 volts. It dies a few minutes sooner than all the other packs, but it's still perfectly usable ... heck, I'll even disassemble packs and match the cells to make new ones.
I DO NOT ADVOCATE anyone playing around with LiPo batteries though, they are extremely dangerous, can explode, burst into flames and generally ruin your day.
That being said 600,ooo volt lightning bolts, 40W lasers, 480 volt 100 amp 3-phase line feeds, microwave guns, and a lot of other things I play with are scary stuff too.
I DO NOT ADVOCATE anyone playing around with LiPo batteries though, they are extremely dangerous, can explode, burst into flames and generally ruin your day.
That being said 600,ooo volt lightning bolts, 40W lasers, 480 volt 100 amp 3-phase line feeds, microwave guns, and a lot of other things I play with are scary stuff too.
Hahaha, I'm sad to say I'm into some of that stuffI probably have about 20 battery packs of assorted sizes and chemistries I use for various things, and for quads I have about six batteries, four of which I baby. One had a cell dropped to 2.95 and wouldn't balance charge at all until I got it started with the stock charger then switched it to my Imax B6 and was then just fine. Another pack was left hanging in a tree for two days ! ... lol ... I was sure it was toast and was hesitant to even recharge it, but I put that one on my digital power supply and nursed it back from high 270's to 280-ish on all cells to 3.2 for each cell, one at a time, and to my surprise the Imax took care of the rest. I cycled it several times with balanced discharging and recharging, then when it was finished the cell differentials where only 0.3 volts. It dies a few minutes sooner than all the other packs, but it's still perfectly usable ... heck, I'll even disassemble packs and match the cells to make new ones.
I DO NOT ADVOCATE anyone playing around with LiPo batteries though, they are extremely dangerous, can explode, burst into flames and generally ruin your day.
That being said 600,ooo volt lightning bolts, 40W lasers, 480 volt 100 amp 3-phase line feeds, microwave guns, and a lot of other things I play with are scary stuff too.
I almost build a CO2 laser CNC rather than a quad, I'm afraid that limited funds is the only reason I have yet to kill myself If I bought everything I wanted to do for hobby electronics I'd be dead for sure hahahah
Gyro Doctor
Electronics Tech for over 45 years
Hahaha, I'm sad to say I'm into some of that stuff
That's too funny and so true ! My budget is also my biggest governor.
After getting bored with HeNe lasers I DID get into CO2, because THAT's were the real power is !
Everything was home made except the front surface mirrors. The capacitor bank was stacks of copper foil and panes of glass, the switch was just an open air spark gap, and the plasma tube was just an acrylic box bolted together. The original design came from an old "Scientific American" magazine which I modified that originally called for Brewster's angles with exotic glass apertures, was double ended like a bazooka, and had nill repetition rate. The most interesting aspect of the project was the relatively negligible wave oscillation required to lase. Excitation was via direct electrical discharge in a traveling wave like a Jacob's ladder, which had several benefits: The "welding arc level" bright light in the plasma worked like a Xenon flash tube would, plus the RF and EME injected helped too. There were also no capillaries needed like in HeHe tubes. Plasma saturation was almost instantaneous and the beam (uncollimated and dirty as it was) easily reached over 40 watts. After some plasma cooling, thanks to a home made heat exchanger, you could weld steel with that bad boy !!
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