First FPV drone

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Processorkoeler

Well-Known Member
Here are some pictures of my soldering iron. I have two of them, and I have the issue with both. I cleaned the tips but it doesn't really get shiny. One of the soldering irons is brand new, I bought it last week. What's wrong with these? Why is the solder falling off?


http://imgur.com/a/VfwiZ
 
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Processorkoeler

Well-Known Member
yay said:
try some different solder. i checked mine for you but it only says 63/37... i don't remember the alloy. banggood has stupid prices and lots of reviews.
Click to expand...

UAVfutures and others recommended 60/40. I don't think 63/37 or 60/40 would make a difference. I also can't wait another 2 weeks for other solder to arrive.
 
yay

yay

Well-Known Member
:) my soldering experience is limited to the cheapo "radio shack" (united states, aka rat shack) 15v models (several of which got turned into herbal vaporisers) ... so back then, it didn't take a lot of thought. you buy the solder and the iron, it's enough for a decade of home repairs.

since then i've been stuck in circumstances where i was using old solder left in a shed meant for electic not electronic, so i've worked with "the wrong solder" and am used to it being clumpy because it doesn't heat evenly, and the regimen of issues form working on tiny things you've already mucked up with globs of solder all over the place (i'm sure you figure stuff out, like, putting a shield between where you're working and things it would not be good to spatter or drip on to..)

but i don't have the particular knowledge of what is what... i've just used solders with the wrong flux for my iron et c. and know "when it isn't working right"

but i *also* know when it *is* working right, enough to fiddle with stuff like this
dr110testing.jpg

(modded dr110 drum machine with a dozen potentiometers hacked in)

in less than ideal circumstances, you play with variables, like holding the tip to make enough contact to best avail the temp your iron is throwing, but, all i can really say to you is,

it shouldn't be that hard. ! :) it's easier when the thingys are all right, really :)
 
mozquito1

mozquito1

Well-Known Member
When I say nothing else will do.
I mean for my preference. 60/40 by itself is OK if you add your own flux, but it's messy & it's not good for components.
Clean off with rubbing alcohol. Allow to dry.
 
mozquito1

mozquito1

Well-Known Member
The end should be tipped in a certain alloy. & only used with solder. If you touch it with something else it can change the tip some how. & solder will not adhere to it. It might be a dodgy tip. But you have two. I didn't catch which watt they are.
You need at least 2 type of tips. Or be good with a medium pointed tip but use the sides for soldering esc's. Start with the lowest watt iron you got. Plug it in & wait 10 seconds then try to apply solder. As it heats up it will find a range it will stick @.
So coat the tip. If this then burns off like your saying it's either a cheap tip that has not been done correct. When you finish soldering each time clean the tip in a wire sponge & apply solder before you turn it off. Stops it from oxidising. Ruining the tip.
 
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Processorkoeler

Well-Known Member
They're 30W. One is new, the other is old, of a friend.
No idea why but after an hour of soldering the new one doesn't even stick anymore. The solder doesn't stick to the tip.
I clean it with a sponge and it doesn't get any better, so I assume the tip is bad. Returning to the store as soon as I can to get a new one. Hopefully then I'll be able to finish the quad - all parts have been delivered.

So far the Motors, ESC and PDB are soldered.
 
mozquito1

mozquito1

Well-Known Member
30w may be a little high. OK for esc's on to pdb. But 18w is plenty for an fcb.
You saying that it just rolls straight off. Is it all over the desk. Or has it just turned black & can't see it very well.
When I first started I used an iron to melt O hole in some plastic. Thought I could just clean the tip. Big no no.
Anything other than tin/copper destroys the composition of the tip. But if you not done anything like that then take it back.
Then as soon as you get another. Plug it in give it 10-20 seconds then apply solder to the whole tip.. If it turn black it's too hot. You need to dab it on a steel billow pad add solder then be quick. The black ground wires take longer than power to warm up. The soldering on the pdb look OK maybe a bit too much solder but OK.
 
Rick M

Rick M

Absent-minded professor
If you have used a brass 'scrubber' and a damp sponge and you still can't tin the tip, I'd change the tip (or the iron). I had one tip that was like that - I dumped it. I have come to the conclusion that a soldering iron is no place to save money, but maybe that's just me. ;)
 
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Processorkoeler

Well-Known Member
I agree that you shouldn't save money on tools, but I only use the soldering iron for this purpose, as soon as this drone is together I'll probably never use it again. Can't really afford to pay €100 for a good soldering iron, I'm already €150 over budget because of extra costs from customs and more expensive parts because Banggood could not deliver them :/

@mozquito1

The solder doesn't go black, it just curls into a ball and falls off. No idea if 30W is too much, I see videos where people use 60W. Also, the first few times soldering (so a clean tip from the store), the tip didn't even get hot enough to melt solder.

Returning to the store tomorrow.
 
QuadKid

QuadKid

Noth'in Like a Flat Top
I use 60/40 silver solder only, file & re-tin my tip the minute the solder starts to roll off the tip, contamination is always the culprit.
 
mozquito1

mozquito1

Well-Known Member
Like I said before. As long as you leave solder on the tip after you finish. It should last years. I have not had to replace one yet or re-tip it.
 
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