Could I have some help with my parts

M

mxchapz

Member
Hi there. I'm building a drone for my school project and I have no knowledge whatsoever about building drones. I have been looking at different videos and articles online but I am getting a little confused. This is the parts list I have so far, if anything is incompatible, anything has been left out, could be replaced for something better or doesn't fit. Please tell me and I will change it. I am going for a budget drone here so I wouldn't like to spend too much if possible. Also I am in England so all of the links will be to English websites. Thanks!

Frame
Motors
ESC’s
Flight Controller - Not sure
Propellers
Battery - Not sure
Remote Control - Not sure

Links for if the hyperlinks don't work
Frame - https://www.buildyourowndrone.co.uk/h280-mini-carbon-fiber-fpv-racing-quadcopter-frame
Motors - https://www.unmannedtechshop.co.uk/product/emax-eco-2207-motor/
ESC’s - https://www.buildyourowndrone.co.uk...ot-18a-2-3s-brushless-esc-for-mini-fpv-racing
Flight Controller -
Propellers - https://www.unmannedtechshop.co.uk/product/dal-cyclone-t5050c-propeller/
Battery -
Remote Control -
 
wafflejock

wafflejock

Well-Known Member
Yes those look fine for the FC would check out what racedayquads.com and getfpv.com has in stock and look at reviews there then once you know which FC is rated well you can shop around for better price, generally speaking any F4 based board is pretty good F3 is older and slower chip not ideal, the F7 based ones are new and higher performance but mainly allow more devices to be connected (GPS, compass, etc.)

For the radio transmitter and radio receiver they need to "pair" or "bind" so need to "speak" the same protocol/language. Personally big fan of jumper T16 since comes with 4 in 1 transmitter module that binds to all sorts of receivers then can get any generic autobinding spektrum satellite DSMX receiver. Battery wise 1300mah to 1500mah 3-4S is typical range for racing or acrobatic setups.
 
wafflejock

wafflejock

Well-Known Member
Also jumper is around $150 if you don't plan to pursue this as a hobby outside of the school project that is probably pretty steep but transmitters generally go for more and are something you can keep and use across many models. Think flsky is the extreme budget option if just POC for the project and don't plan to fly longer term.
 
Dugdog47

Dugdog47

Well-Known Member
Also something to keep in mind you'll notice those motors come in two different kv ratings 1700 and 2400.

The 1700s are designed for 6s batteries,
The 2400s are designed for 4s batteries.
 
wafflejock

wafflejock

Well-Known Member
Yah good point also one thing to go along with the batteries is a charger of some sort. Any LiPo "balance charger" that supports 6S (most of them) will work, the higher wattage means you could potentially charge more batteries together with a parallel charge board at a higher speed (current) but for charging a single battery a 50W or 80W charger something in that range would be fine (if the wattage rating is too low the charger will get hot when charging big batteries fast, long story short).

iMax B6 was the standard for a long time but tons of clones out there that are hit or miss, iSDT chargers are typically considered good and pretty nice but for any LiPo charger be sure you have the appropriate AC->DC power supply to feed the charger power or that it comes with one (this isn't a guarantee because you can use other batteries or say a car for the DC input power and saves everyone money not to ship extra transformers, but if you need it look for it).
 
M

mxchapz

Member
wafflejock said:
Yah good point also one thing to go along with the batteries is a charger of some sort. Any LiPo "balance charger" that supports 6S (most of them) will work, the higher wattage means you could potentially charge more batteries together with a parallel charge board at a higher speed (current) but for charging a single battery a 50W or 80W charger something in that range would be fine (if the wattage rating is too low the charger will get hot when charging big batteries fast, long story short).

iMax B6 was the standard for a long time but tons of clones out there that are hit or miss, iSDT chargers are typically considered good and pretty nice but for any LiPo charger be sure you have the appropriate AC->DC power supply to feed the charger power or that it comes with one (this isn't a guarantee because you can use other batteries or say a car for the DC input power and saves everyone money not to ship extra transformers, but if you need it look for it).
Click to expand...

This is what I've found for all the parts you suggested.

Battery - https://hobbysportzdubai.com/product/gens-ace-1400mah-3s1p-high-discharge-lipo-battery-11-1v-25c/
Remote Control - https://rccorner.ae/flysky-fs-i4-2-4ghz-4ch-remote-controller.html
Flight Controller - https://www.unmannedtechshop.co.uk/product/airbot-f7-flight-controller/

Just a few questions.
1) Is this all the parts I need(including the parts listed above) and are they all compatible?
2) Are there any FC programs you would recommend? For this FC the website says to use Cleanflight which seems good
3) Which battery connections are needed and do I need to buy any of them or are they already provided with the FC or whichever part is powered?
4) The battery I put above is a 3S but the ESC's and the frame say 4S, will this affect anything?
5) I have a charger (One from EV Peak, not sure of the model) will this be fine?

Thanks!
 
Dugdog47

Dugdog47

Well-Known Member
1. You'll also need a power distribution board which should come with an xt60 connector so that also answers #3 question.
 
wafflejock

wafflejock

Well-Known Member
Yup either of those would work, really these things are just boards with pads to make it easy to connect parts to the battery voltage/gnd and then a couple of linear voltage regulator chips that drop the battery input voltage down to 5V and 12V for powering FC and VTX. The LC filter I think is there so you don't need to add your own capacitor to the power input it basically stops voltage spikes from the ESCs from making the rest of the power (like for your video transmitter) clean (so you don't get video noise). Not sure how well the on board one will work but adding a capacitor on the battery mains or on each ESC power input can also stop the dips/spikes from the ESCs from effecting VTX power.

^^ lots of unnecessary detail I guess but long story short either will work
 
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