CARBON FIBER 320 SIZE QUAD AND DX6

H

HDtallrider

Well-Known Member
Good point. That's another reason to use ferrite barrels and you aren't creating a toroid when you do and they work better size for size and you could put all of your bec wires in just one if you wanted. Lotta "ands" there. LOL
 
H

HDtallrider

Well-Known Member
I have used those and they work fine. They are just large enough to fit 2 seta of BEC wires in one. Hope they help. If you can, make your dc wires as short as possible. The ac motor wires can be as long as you need without problems. Getting rid of a rats nest will be a huge help.
 
GJH105775

GJH105775

Off and on
Moderator
HDtallrider said:
I have used those and they work fine. They are just large enough to fit 2 seta of BEC wires in one. Hope they help. If you can, make your dc wires as short as possible. The ac motor wires can be as long as you need without problems. Getting rid of a rats nest will be a huge help.
Click to expand...

I have one of yours :p, came in that box.


Many companies will wrap wires through a ferrite ring 5 times, but unless you do it a lot more it is worthless. I don't know how effective this type is, but many cords use this style.
 
katheiser

katheiser

Invading your airspace, Colorado, USA
Picked some up at radio shack. Just to be clear, I should put these on the leads going to my fc? or on the + and - ive soldered directly to the PDB? Stupid question, I know.
 
H

HDtallrider

Well-Known Member
From the esc's to the FCB will have the most effect. Also try it on the lead to your FPV transmitter. Twisting the leads from the FCB to yourRx is usually all you need there.
 
katheiser

katheiser

Invading your airspace, Colorado, USA
OK, so the verdict is in. Looks like ESCs are gonna need to be replaced. Ive shortened all my wires, I have ferrite rings on everything, (wrapped a bunch of times as per GJ instructions) and same issue. So, I would like all of your help one last time again please. Can you please post LINKS to some GOOD ESCs please? All I need is 12A but ill do whatever works. Here is the link to MY motors again.

http://rctimer.com/product-1249.html

Here is a ESC Im looking at, but want to make sure its compatible and will be less "noisy".

http://www.getfpv.com/electronics/e...ier-12a-esc-w-simonk-autoshot-2-4s-n-fet.html

At this point, Im at a "money is no object" (to a point) mindset. I just want something that will work with my setup so I can go fly. I do realize Jackson kind of laid this out earlier, but I guess what im looking for is actual links to places I can buy from. I like the "RED CHEAPIES" Jackson posted about, but the link is for RCTimer, who im not thrilled with, but if that is the best, ill get them, and they are 30A. I just don't need that much I don't think. I appreciate all of your help, and cant wait to get flying.
 
H

HDtallrider

Well-Known Member
This is if money is truly no object. You can wrap your Rx with the ubec wires and get zero interference. Same with the esc's. The motors are more powerful and efficient than anything out there. You can go 200 hours between bearing changes, unlike others that go 30 to 60 hours.
 
katheiser

katheiser

Invading your airspace, Colorado, USA
Sold out... :-( Plus, id like to not change motors IF I CAN AVOID IT. But looks like a nice option. Lets call this, plan B at the TOP of the budget.
 
H

HDtallrider

Well-Known Member
Then just buy the esc's and ubec. Another alternative is Castle. Give me a sec and I'll send you the links. Also ZTW Spider for esc's. you don't have to program them either and I've used them with no problems.
 
katheiser

katheiser

Invading your airspace, Colorado, USA
Do those ZTW spider ESCs have whatever they need to not produce so much RFI?

From Jacksons post:
"Folks have been knocking the standard RCTimers for a while. Mostly for their lack of all N-FETs and no 16MHz Crystal. They may just be noisy little buggers."

Maybe a dumb question, but I have to ask...
 
H

HDtallrider

Well-Known Member
I have not had an issue. They have a good reputation for a reasonably priced esc. I don't know the specifics. They do not have a bec (you'll need one) so they probably are very low RFI. Castle ubec is low RFI and KDE is zero, zip, nada RFI.
 
katheiser

katheiser

Invading your airspace, Colorado, USA
Thanks HD! So, here's ( hopefully ) My last noob question. Do I just get 1 BEC, and wire that from my PDB to my lipo? Then just wire those ESC'S into my pdb like normal? I'll send pics of how I have mine set up tomorrow..... sorry for the stupid inquiries.
 
H

HDtallrider

Well-Known Member
You know. Your question just made me think of something. Are all 4 of your bec's powered going to your FCB? Only 1 should be powered. I am not a electronics expert but my experience with high end audio has taught me that wires run in parallel close together create quite a field. It has a very dramatic effect on sound quality. I am not sure that this is what's happening to you but I can't believe there would be no interference. Especially from cheap esc's. Anyway. The KDE and ZTW esc's are opto. They have no power, just a signal going thru the bec lead. A ubec gets its power from the battery input of your PDB then drops the voltage to power your FCB which powers your Rx. Both the Castle and KDE ubec's can handle sufficient amperage to power other devices, servos for example, with no problem.
 
katheiser

katheiser

Invading your airspace, Colorado, USA
OK, ill post a pic of my wiring setup tonight. You will have to forgive my noob Soldering (I know that might be a problem too) Maybe you can see if I'm not wiring things correctly.
 
katheiser

katheiser

Invading your airspace, Colorado, USA
Here is a poor drawing if how I have it. All 4 escs are into the fcb. All red (+) wires are attached to the pdb or run from esc to fc. I am assuming you are saying I put the bec in line to the battery leads, then power all escs off that, not the pdb? Also, remove all but 1 red wire from esc to fc?
 

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