Ardu-copter flipping sideways instead of taking off

[roineust]

Need it to take off as symmetrically as possible and to hover over a position, as stable as possible.

Need a 1-1.5 kg payload power and no need for speed or acceleration at all - Only stability at a 5 meter hovering height, is what's important here.

Any specific type of frame, motors or props to recommend, in relation to such a mission?

 

[GJH105775]

Got brand new 4S 3300mAh, did not take them out of the box yet.
i understand from what you say about throttle %, that the time to start using them, is getting increasingly closer..
Here is a link to the 4S batteries i have:
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=32752

Make sure your motors and ESCs support 4S, that will likely make it take off better, but you will need to tune your PIDs, P will have the biggest effect.

 

[holtneil]

I would use them not the others or look at the multistar batteries they are just for multirotor use so are light to power ratio

 

[holtneil]

Jackson put one on a thread look up all Jackson's posts and your find it unless George know where there is one sorry have to go to work will catch up with you tomorrow

 

[roineust]

Thanks a lot holtneil, will be looking forward to hearing from you..

 

[RENOV8R]

Glad to see you're in the air and flying. Don't forget that if you're just having minor issues with drift , you can correct this with the subtrims on the front of your transmitter. No need to do a full calibration for this. When you're satisfied with how it's flying, how about some videos! That's a nice craft

 

[roineust]

RENOV8R -
What does 'subtrims on the front of your transmitter' mean? How do i actually do the PID process, which was mentioned above? i'm looking here at a 'PID tutorial' web search and all i get are mathematical and theoretical explanations..

 

[GJH105775]

I would use them not the others or look at the multistar batteries they are just for multirotor use so are light to power ratio

Probably a voltage problem as you'd burn the batteries up over drawing current.

 

[GJH105775]

RENOV8R -
What does 'subtrims on the front of your transmitter' mean? How do i actually do the PID process, which was mentioned above? i'm looking here at a 'PID tutorial' web search and all i get are mathematical and theoretical explanations..

 

[holtneil]

So how are we doing is it flying now

 

[roineust]

RENOV8R and holtneil,
i'll try to post a video of a take off and a short hovering session, as soon as possible.

Still, having a really very fixed over position hovering, has not been achieved yet, so hovering shown will be short, i hope it is possible to improve that more. Anyway, the change from 3S 60-70C LiPo to 4S 65-130C LiPO, improved take off symmetry and hovering position stability considerably.

What would you say is the optimal system components setup (frame, motors, props, ESC's, batteries) for a drone, that has the following mission profile:
A compact as possible drone, which can hover over a fixed point for as long as possible, at a height of 3-5 meters, carrying a payload of 1-1.5 kg. No need for speed or acceleration at all - only stability and long hovering time are needed. What components would you chose for such a mission ??

 

[holtneil]

If you want a great fixed hover you want a FCB like the XYZ- M it's made by Tarot cost from Hobby King is about £90 it has GPS and it as good as the DJI Naza M which is about £191

 

[roineust]

Do you know the details of what makes it better than other FC in fixed hover?

 

[GJH105775]

Do you know the details of what makes it better than other FC in fixed hover?

Higher quality sensors, and GPS (also better than a multiwii). Generally these make it better, though if tuned really well even something as cheap as the KK can be rock solid in the air.

 

[roineust]

Hello people,
i'v changed the frame, props and motors - but kept the entire setup exactly as it was with previous components - but yet, the new drone won't get off the ground.

Attached below are pictures of the new drone props setup.

Here is the motors model:
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=34227

Here is the props model:
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=39773

Here is the frame model:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__36688__Extra_Large_EPP_Quadcopter_Frame_450mm_835mm_total_width_EU_warehouse_.html?strSearch=epp 8


1. The front right prop is a CCW type, the motor attached to it is spinning CCW and it is connected to the black,red.white wires - which is channel number 1 and the only channel that has 3 wires and not just the data. Of course data + and - are connected right.
2. The rear left prop is a CCW type, the motor attached to it is spinning CCW and it is connected to the blue wire of channel number 2.
3. The front left prop is a CW type, the motor attached to it is spinning CW and it is connected to the yellow wire of channel number 3.
4. The read right prop is a CW type, the motor attache to it is spinning CW and it is connected to the green wire of channel number 4.

p.s.
i'm using a PixFalcon FC:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/..._Micro_PX4_Autopilot.html?strSearch=pixfalcon


What could be the problem?

Thanks a lot.

 

[GJH105775]

Does it stay on the ground as solid as a rock? It looks like all of the props are wrong.


Generally this is the correct configuration:

CW====CCW

CCW====CW

Unless uoir flight controller calls for different I'd suggest switching the props around, I highlighted the leading edge to show what I mean.

 

[roineust]

Thanks GJH,
Now it's right...it works! Thanks!

 

[GJH105775]

Thanks GJH,
Now it's right...it works! Thanks!

Glad it worked, you doing a happy dance? hahahahaha