Piko problems

[mozquito1]

Oh where to start.
I cannot flash the latest firmware from CF. I had to boot pins then release to get it going. New cli commands can only be saved to file. The profile is betaflight but I use CF. At first I managed to flash new firmware to esc's using the config tool. But now I cannot.
I have to basically reset the board every time I power on as the rx inputs do not show anything but 0's.
On power I get di di di tone. When I access the motors tab, disarmed I might add. The motors on all 4 esc's spin up randomly. As the box you tick is already checked & no response from the sliders or master. Values are at 0. Just thinking of buying a new fc as I have never seen anything like this BS before.
BLheli detects multiple esc's but won't pick up number one but will spin it up as soon as I open the motors tab.
Very dangerous. .
Does anybody think conformal coating would cause problems.

 

[mozquito1]

this soldering is tight but I can't see any shorts. If I take it apart I got smaller silicone wire. The tiny jumper pads has been done since this picture was taken.

Got a bit complacent on this one. I didn't thoroughly check the FC before I slapped the conformal coating on it, as the underside needed doing as much as possible because I was to lazy to undo 16 screws. But I never seen the check box on the motors tab already checked before.
Aswell as it not picking up the rx unless a fresh setup is entered. After work tomorrow I may download betaflight see if the board is any better. I can't find any info on the blx being compatible with multishot. But they where flashed in passthrough but now it connects, esc's beep but it's stalling on the read & nothing comes up. Then the only normal thing happens, the motors make the idle tones like I wish it was just stuck in long grass & not a pain in the ass. Unless anyone can convince me it's a short or the board is dodgy. The only thing to do is resolder but it's going to be messy & Smelly burning that coating. Old tips @ the ready.

 

[mozquito1]

Update is, I can calibrate esc through passthrough in bl-heli but not through cleanflight motors tab. If I set it up on CF & leave battery connected I can fly, but as soon as the bat is disconnected,it keeps settings but doesn't see the rx again till I reset the board. Oh but in the motors tab the box is still checked for no props.
Dangerous.

 

[Gyro Doctor]

... Interesting problem you have going on there. Maybe a bad flash.

Oh and I would definitely redo those solder points on the FC (especially the two on the far left, they look as if they are much too close to bridging) and three
of the other four joints look "cold". Each one should look like the third wire (red) from the left.

"Dodgy" connectivity can introduce a myriad of problems that can actually change with voltage (and even humidity, although much less so when using conformal coating)
and I've seen weirdness attributed to that many, many times in my forty plus years of soldering

My suggestion would be to fix those connections, re-flash, and basically start over. Don't bother trying to remove the conformal coating before reworking any joints,
just hold your nose and burn through it

 

[mozquito1]

... Interesting problem you have going on there. Maybe a bad flash.

Oh and I would definitely redo those solder points on the FC (especially the two on the far left, they look as if they are much too close to bridging) and three
of the other four joints look "cold". Each one should look like the third wire (red) from the left.

"Dodgy" connectivity can introduce a myriad of problems that can actually change with voltage (and even humidity, although much less so when using conformal coating)
and I've seen weirdness attributed to that many, many times in my forty plus years of soldering

My suggestion would be to fix those connections, re-flash, and basically start over. Don't bother trying to remove the conformal coating before reworking any joints,
just hold your nose and burn through it

Just waiting on a new soldering iron.
Dont want to damage the tip, it's a decent iron. It said loaded with cf/BF, I use CF
and it connected OK on first test same as when kwad was built. But no matter what combination I try to update or try a earlier firmware. It's not having it.
So this omnibus I'm going to get it flying then undo all bottom bolts & take it off, then conformal coat it. And see what happens. If that goes wrong then there is lots of other uses for it.

 

[Gyro Doctor]

Just waiting on a new soldering iron.
Dont want to damage the tip, it's a decent iron.

... Your replacing the entire soldering iron (hope it's also a higher wattage than the one you now have) because of a tip ? ... roflmao ...
Do yourself a favor and buy a package or two of assorted tips for (both of) the irons you have.

Different tips (and irons) will have characteristics suited for the particular job you're performing:

A larger, chisel shaped, tip will transfer more heat (and faster) than a fine pointed, pencil shaped tip will and faster heat transfer will also allow the use of lower wattages.
For example when soldering a larger connection (power wires) to a larger pad (esc, pdb, bat) a chisel tip works best because the irons's tip doesn't lose as much heat
during the transfer (being larger and heavier with more contact area touching the joint) and will make a better solder connection.

For signal connections though (smaller wires and smaller pads much closer together), a finer tip is needed which also means it needs to be hotter so even though
there's less/slower heat transfer the joint still stays hot enough to melt the solder without heating up everything else around it too in the process.

Since you build lots of quads for people, at some point I'd advise purchasing an adjustable soldering iron. Being able to vary the heat settings to suit the nature of the
connection you're making is a great thing.

I'd recommend either a "Weller" or "GC Electronics" adjustable iron using a medium grade pencil tip. When making larger connections I ramp mine up to around
800 or so degrees and for smaller ones run it at around 600-650 degrees and since I'm able to adjust the heat I can use the same tip for all applications.

Remember, when making solder connections you want to "Hit and Git It" ... NOT hafta hold it there waiting for the joint to get hot enough to melt the solder, and
the JOINT melts the solder, NOT the iron's tip.

 

[mozquito1]

I know how to solder nothing wrong with the joints no shorts so my meter said anyways. But I don't know if it was a bad board or if it was the conformal coating that messed it up. It did get me high when applied. I learned about bad joints & shorts on drone number one. Never since. I hate wasting money like that.
Bang went the first naze32, for the price of an esc that continuity tester has saved me some cash.
I since got a omnibus betaflight 3.1 +osd.
Bunged it in job done,all sorted.
must order some cell batteries for scales but it's around 80-90g with lipo about 130g tops. Just waiting on some kingkong's.
So the Piko would not let me do anything with motors & it lost recognition of the rx on every switch on. Omnibus is rocking so so see what happens. So next year will be my 4th summer in the hobby.
I think it’s about time I got myself a decent camera & post a few vids of some free flow chain moves. My favourite song has always been "wish you were here" by pink Floyd then number 2 is learning to fly. I would like to make a video to that song. & now I'm getting better, it just finding a cool spot or that ribbon of black next summer.